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suprjohn

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Everything posted by suprjohn

  1. WOW! That looks SO much better! Well done! John
  2. Not too my taste, but still a nice car. All it needs is a continental kit on the trunk! lol John
  3. Looks great! I came across SEM products after I had already started with Duplicolor unfortunately. The Duplicolor looks good, but I'm not sure how durable it's going to be; a few places (Right at the outside corners) are starting to flake already. Should work on carpet. I'm guessing it's man-made fibers, so in other words plastic. John
  4. I agree with Eeyore. Track down the source of the smoking before doing anything drastic. Years ago, I ordered an engine for a Toyota from an outfit that claimed they were low mileage takeouts from Japan. Might check into that, or you could go with a reman from Marshall, jasper or another reputable company. John
  5. I collect international harvester trucks that way. My wife has threatened to make me live in them if I get any more. Lol John
  6. The atomic clearance lights were removed as an option shortly after the introduction of the E82 lineup due to stricter guidelines introduced by the nuclear regulatory commission. Hence, ACL bearings are largely unobtainable. It was rumored that Sadam Hussein bought up the remaining NOS ACL bearings on the black market when he learned they could be used in uranium centrifuges, but coalition forces did not find them during the 2003 invasion. Allegedly. It has been reported however, that Syrian assault armored vehicles (which we know are mostly '89-'90 Subaru wagons with a very thick coating of JB Weld slathered on them) have super bright kick rump roast clearance lights. Things that make you go, "hmmmm". John
  7. Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question, but I had to say you gotta love that rattle can paint job! John
  8. You might make it around the block. If it were me, I'd look for a '90's t-bird rear end, or the rear end out of a vette, or an'80's jaguar, or any number of others. Just my opinion, your actual mileage may vary. John
  9. If the shaft is under a load, it might bind up enough to quiet the knock. Is the knock only present while in motion, or does it occur when stopped as well? John
  10. Hello, I'm no electrical guru, but 12 volts is way too low, and the top of the gauge is way too high. Grinding noises are also not good. If cost is a problem, a parts store alternator will get you by. If you can spend a little more, having your rebuilt at a reputable auto electric shop might yield better quality. I've not done it, but I've read about doing the 90 amp Nissan alternator swap here. You could search the archives for more info. The gauge should be pretty foolproof, but anything made by man is subject to failure. John
  11. I pulled the sender out of my '89 DL wagon to siphon out the ten year old gas. Sealed it up with black RTV. So far, no problems. John
  12. That seems like a pretty good deal! Are the fenders and doors interchangeable with the sedans? Will they be hard to find? John
  13. I did the timing belts on my '89 DL wagon with a Chilton's, a Haynes and zero Subaru experience. Not too bad really. Mine started from the opposite side; water pump was fragged, so I decided to go ahead and do the belts. I did the whole kit with tensioners and the idler. Biggest issues for me, was getting the correct water pump, and having a machine shop make a custom bolt for the idler, as someone had stripped out the hole in the block, fixed it with a heilocoil, and then put in a non standard bolt tho which the old idler gear was frozen. John
  14. Not meaning to hijack a thread (but shamelessly doing it anyway ), what if a guy wanted to go the other way? Go from manual to automatic? John
  15. Boy, that was so long ago I don't even remember. He was an older horse, 17, papered Skipper Bar Doc if memory serves. My ex was the horse person. Even so, I miss the horse a darn sight more than the ex! John
  16. Even Al Gore admits ethanol was a bad idea. I avoid it like the plague. John
  17. I bought some plastic "welding rod" from Harbor Freight. It contains rod for three different types of plastic. If I recall correctly, ABS, PP and one other. I used it to repair one of the lower door pockets on my '89 DL wagon. I saw a large "PP" molded into the panel, so I assumed that's what it was. Seemed to bond well. I just melted it in there with a pen style soldering iron. Bit of a learning curve, but doable. Will have to be smoothed and painted for best appearance. John
  18. That sounds like a $100 car to me, but I'm cheap. John
  19. Cool video! Glad I wasn't on LSD when I watched it! lol Remember, it's all fun and games til someone gets an eye put out! John
  20. I know where Lyons is! I bought a horse there YEARS ago! If no one else snaps this it might be in range for me with that $50 motor... John
  21. Thanks Guys! "I Break Stuff", I read your comment to my wife and we both got a good chuckle out of that. Gotta be a story there! lol According to Wikipedia, a Dana 60 should weigh in around 500 lbs. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_60 I doubt I'll get my wife to go with me, so just me and some tools. Should be reasonably flat thru the route I'll take. My DL has a 5 spd, so if I don't roast the clutch, heat shouldn't be an issue. I'd take my ranger, but it gets really creepy has mileage. Plus, if all goes well, I'll have A/C in the Sub after April! John
  22. Hey All! I've seem receiver hitches for my '89 DL wagon, believe they are class I. I also know they make adapters to use 2" class II & III hitches with class I receivers. My question is this; I have a 5' x 8' utility trailer. It's pretty light, I can move it by hand. Would it be possible/advisable to tow this trailer from western Nebraska, to Minneapolis to pick up a Dana 60 rear end for another project? Thoughts/opinions welcome. John
  23. I found this at rock auto... Heater Core 1987 SUBARU BRAT 1.8L H4 : Heat & Air Conditioning : Heater Core Price PRO Part # 9010172 {#772011070} $77.79 Add to Cart
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