spicypeanut

I was basically teaching the inspector about the car. Then he pulled out his tech spec book and looked up the car. Then he went so far as to google the brat to make sure that the dual exhaust was correct....

I do have all the emissions equipment hooked up and it is all functioning properly. If the car came with a catalytic converter it would have passed already. The plan is to drive the car for the 30 days that I have the temporary operating permit for. Get the motor broken in, turn back the timing and air/fuel and then retest it. My mechanics say it should pass. And if not, I will either go back to the stock carb or add a cat to the exhaust.

I had it set to 4 degree BTDC timing, then when you connect the vacuum lines again it goes to 7 degrees BTDC. Still HC are up around 300. They need to be around 200 or so.

Is it possible to get an EA71 equip with a Weber Carb to pass emissions? I seem to have run into a wall. All my number are exceptional except for the HC. Which looks to be about 100PPM too high. Looking for guidance here.

I was going to take a picture but, it is the 2 pronged one.

Okay. Made some progress the last 2 days. Here goes a pretty large update. I'm still greasy and dirty from working on it all day. Got some replacement windshield wipers. These are old school. I much prefer what cars use now... Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Check out my freshly painted factory Mirrors! Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr So because I didn't have this tiny little valve, the truck-let failed the smog test (Yay for California...). This is called a vacuum delay valve. Basically it delays the vacuum to the EGR valve so the emissions runs properly. I didn't have it the first time I tried to smog. Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr With that little thing installed ALL of the emmissions numbers dropped drastically. So now the truck-let is running well, but it failed the smog test yet again. . The HC (PPM) is 332 and the max allowable is 239. Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr I ran it back over to my mechanic who was able to retard the timing a bit and lean it out. I am hopeful that those adjustments will allow it to pass the smog test tomorrow so I can finally get my tags. Next up, are the shims for the rear head rests. I had one original set that was in good shape and another set that looked as if they had disintegrated. I went over to my good friend who has his own machine shop. He's been doing custom machine work for the past 40 + years. Well needless to say he re-created these parts and the attention to detail and the quality far surpasses the original components. Just look at these, they are gorgeous! Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr <iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/48004531@N06/13900549061/player/" width="375" height="500" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe> Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr He did a little spot weld repair on the damaged head rest that I had. Once I clean it up and put some paint on it, the head rest will look brand new. Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Here is some more welding I had my machine shop friend do. Basically each of the grab bars were very rusty. They were bad enough that he told me that he wanted to weld new pipe onto the original frame. Who am I to argue? Had him fix all 4 for good measure. Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Did some touch-ups on the rear truck-let bed. Came out quite nice. Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Now that the car/truck/truck-let/Brat is drive-able, I went ahead and re-installed the front push bar and rear roll bars. We polished up the bolts, used some lock washers and flat washers and re-installed both bars. I think they look GREAT! Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr The mad house that is my garage at this point during the installs. Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr I've gotten most things on my check-list taken care of. Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr My dad and I were finally able to install both mirrors! Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr I thought this was a fitting photo to end this update on: Untitled by blue03wrx, on Flickr

I'm having trouble with my vacuum lines. I have no idea which one goes where and it is running like garbage. Wants to die as soon as I try to let the clutch out. Under heavy acceleration its happy, but anything less than that and it bogs and wants to die.

Oh okay, that makes a lot more sense. Thank you for guiding me in the right direction. I was way off originally! I'll take a look in my factory manual, find where it is and try to post a picture so the next person that is thinking about doing this can see what to do!

Since the wires only have a + and a - should I get a relay that only has 2 plugs? I'm not entirely sure how the wires should get plugged in.

Will I need to add one one each turn signal bulb as well as the brake light? And what exactly is an electronic blinker? Would putting one of these on each turn signal bulb and brake light work? http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/1978-subaru---installation+accessories/59---528377/

I'm trying to get all my running lights to be LED's and I seem to be running into some issues. I posted a separate LED thread over here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145320-possible-to-convert-all-running-lights-to-led/ Halp! Small Update: I've driven the car about 60-70 miles so far. My mechanic wanted the motor to be broken in a little bit before he readjusted the motor. Hopefully after I get it back tonight it will be running quietly. He will also be installing the new speedometer cable so that I actually know how fast I'm going.

So I went to Kragen and bought LED bulbs that are compatable with CANBUS systems and that are the correct replacement for my Brat. I put a front running light, rear brake, rear reverse, and rear turn signal in. They do not work. The running lights work, but if I press the brake pedal, the front running light illuminates. Bascially I had to take all of them out except for the front running light, and the rear reverse light. If I try to add in the turn signal (both front and or rear), or the brake light. The turn signal won't blink. It just stays constant. Is there any way to run an LED light on my front and rear turn signal, as well as the rear running / brake light?

Just wanted to share:

Just wanted to document this day. The brat is now home with me! I drove it about 25 miles this evening and it was awesome....up until the moment I blew a fuse and lost all my lights. Lol

So I forgot my flikr password but follow this link to a bunch of pictures I took this evening. Hope this helps. https://www.flickr.com/photos/48004531@N06/

I've I could I would buy this, looks very nice. Any idea if the tach gauge cluster and non tach gauge cluster are swappable?

I've got a freshly powder coated high top roll bar sitting apart in my garage. I'll see what I can do to help you tonight.

Sweet! The paint job is certainly not my thing but I can appreciate the work that has gone into the entire project. Keep up the good work!

Thank you. Keep your eye's peeled. They are out there. Do you have a build thread? I'd love to see what you are working with. Thank you. So the original EA71 motor that was in the car, the heads had 2 ports for the emissions equipment. But the other spare EA71 motor that I rebuild the heads only had 1 port for the emissions equipment. I was under the impression that all EA71 motors were the same. Do you have any idea how many revisions to the heads SoA made, or how to tell the differences?

Thanks for all the warm thoughts guys! I just got back from the mechanics and the motor is in! In fact it was ready to go as of Thursday but during the initial testing we found out the entire steering rack was severely worn out. We had it sent out to be completely rebuilt and it arrived back at the shop today! It sure is a thing of beauty! Major things to do: Install Steering Rack Install new Throttle Cable Install new Weber Air cleaner assembly Once those 3 things happen I believe this will be back in my garage. Next week can't come quick enough! Almost forgot. It has a new battery (not the deep cycle marine battery I stole out of our boat but an actual auto battery )

Ok just got off the phone with my mechanic. The steering rack is WORN out! I'm going to have that sent out and rebuilt. Things I need: New speedometer cable Misc parts to cleanly install the accelerator cable to the Weber Carb

Quick Update: As of yesterday the BRAT LIVES! It was driven around the parking lot. I wasn't there but I was told by my mechanic he needed to make some valve adjustments.

You had me going there for a second, haha. Well done Subaru.

This sounds amazing. Got any more info on this custom EUL header you made? If I can get the Brat to sound like my sti, it would make me a happy camper.

This is where I was going to take mine, until I found out it would cost about $1000. http://www.justdashes.com/dash_resto.html I can justify a lot of things but $1000. I just can't do that.