Bekokatt

Getting a lot of offers on parts, especially the rx trans with the center locking diff, but, no one shows up.

The reason hybrid cars don't see race application outside of college students trying to make a point, is that of weight. They have an engine, a transmission, then 4 electric motors each with their own, albeit smaller transmissions, plus however many batteries it has, usually 8. It's all pretty heavy when you could've just had an engine and trans. Look up the Ariel Atom. It's not a hybrid, but, it is electric, ridiculously fast, and not deliberately stupid looking. There's a gas one too.

So, I think this is going to end up being a part out.

A half shaft is a 2 piece driveshaft, I think maybe you mean a cv axle? And no, I would not drive the car missing the front cv axle. If that cv axle is ruined, remove it, pull a cv axle from the back, put it in the front, and shift the transmission into Front Wheel Drive until you can buy a new cv axle to replace the missing rear one, then you can be 4WD again.

I thought you guys would have an interest in my car and it's parts, and the extra parts are for sale separately as well, you can make an offer on them or buy the whole thing. http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/4841645586.html Make an offer?

And that Subaru is dead now. Here's my advice: putting in the push button trans is NOT worth it. The push button is operated through vacuum lines and your DL does not have the connections for the vacuum lines or the wiring for push button. That lever I was talking about DOES work however, it just took a spoob. I had in 4WD, and shifted it into FWD, which while I was driving it shifted itself out of FWD and ended up in the middle between FWD and 4WD, made a horrid winding sound and the whole drivetrain just locked up, the tranny overheated and puked gear oil everywhere and will no longer shift into FWD or 4WD, and while overheated, it would not move while in gear. It moves now that it's cool, but, after towing it home and then parking it, I will no longer drive this car. I got a High Low from an RX with the Diff lockers and the rear diff for it. So, that's going in soon and I can talk about that part of the build later. Also, have any of you ever had a Soob that was so rusty that it threw a shock through the shock tower? This car just through a shock through the driver's side rear shock tower. Sweet. Everyone tells me "Just put it down and take it to Pull n Save", but, I'm gonna weld up some steel bars from the top of the shock tower to the frame so it will be really tough. My car is among the rustiest subarus I've ever seen. Certainly the worst structurally.

Alright, sweet. My phone has disappeared somewhere into the abyss that is my coupe full of boiler suits, tools, jackets, fast food garbage, and EJ25 that are in the back of my car. Anyway though, I'll give a basic rundown of my experience in the mean time. So, in mid december, My friend Vince acquired a 1991 Loyale Wagon which had been rearended. We took it's motor (90,000ish Miles) and put it into my car which had cracked heads and ran 3 cylinders and had 272,000ish miles at the time. We also took it's push button 4WD trans out. My car entered this horrid little tarp garage thing where Vince's soob was earlier when we put an EA81 in it. (It's a 1987 Hatch, like that older gen not a liftback like mine which is also an '87). We took the engine out with the trans on it which was among the easiest motors I've ever pulled. We put in the push button trans, and then put the motor in which was also easy and straight forward and I won't explain how to do that here. That can have it's own section somewhere if anyone wants to learn about soobie motor transplants. Anyway, the motor and tranny were super straight forward. I made a mount for the carrier bearing, which is a bearing that is part of the 1st halfshaft leaving the transmission, and that mount was actually a crossmember that a transmission mounts to, I think we took it from a 1982 wagon that he parted out for the motor. I just drilled two holes that the carrier bearing can connect to, attached it with appropriately sized bolts, and drilled into my floor pan and used more nuts and bolts to attach it with the holes it already had. Later on, I sourced a rearend from a 1993 loyale that had the same 3.9 gear ratio my trans does, and let it since on Vince's front lawn for about 4 months. (With the halfshaft in it's drivable though still FWD) So, anyway, later on in doing this you'll gain free time and inspiration and finish the 4WD conversion with your friend Adam, who will break one of your brake lines. (Somewhat ironic I guess) and you'll have to go to pull n save and get a new one. Then, you'll finish dropping the rear end which is just bolt removal, and if you understand a wrench, you understand bolt removal until a part comes out. Now comes the part where I share with you the wizardry involved in stalling a the new rear end. So, on your DL, you will find 2 indentations in the frame where the mustache bar goes. (The mounting bar for the rear diff that looks like a mustache). And if you're retarded like I am you'll not know that there are two mounts that go there and drop your rear end for nothing and give up for 4 months. Anyway, you'll need to drill those out, I used a 7/16's drill bit and a 7/16's tap with a pitch of 14. Oddly, if you buy 7/16's bolts with a pitch of 14, they will not fit and your eyes will explode out of your skull from rage and your brain will lose all understanding and lobotomize itself and sort of drip out of your nose. In desperation, you will begin trying to stuff random bolts into this hole and suddenly discover that the largest bolt you removed from the rear end to drop it, it's the fattest one, and there's two, and it's about 6 inches long, you'll find that it fits perfectly. Nice and snug. You'll also understand that you need that bolt to put your car back together and that you can't use it. In your hunt you'll notice 6 bolts, of which you need 4, that are attached to the trailing arms on your FWD rear end, you'll take 2 from each side, they're 2 inches long or so, and that those parts were the only ones not made entirely of rust. They'll work great. Then you'll lay the rear end on a jack so where the jack lifts is on the point where the rear diff connects to the rear end itself, and begin to lift, first attaching the mustache bar to the mounts that you just added. Then the other end that is actually the rear end will meet up with the car and you'll keep attaching bolts until you've attached all the bolts. Then you just place the half shaft in there, and there's some play in the portion connecting the transmission to the yoke, so, don't worry about exact measurements there. Put in the 8 bolts for that, and then love the spoob out of your Subaru and try to find a way to explain to your girlfriend that at this point you probably love it more than she loves her children. Also, bleed your brakes because they won't work until you do this. It's really shitty to try to drive across Spokane with no brakes to go home where your brake line and the fluid is. On Maple street bridge, even though your haz lights are on and you're going 8MPH because even at that speed it takes like 5 car lengths to stop with your e-brake, you'll be cut off by a city bus and then brake checked by it, you'll fail the brake check, and take your chances swerving into the empty oncoming lane. You will then wish to beat this bus driver to death but be unable. You will grumble about it for the rest of the day, but, be unable to forget your excitement in having 4WD and inevitably piss off your neighbors by bashing the car around in alley ways and gravel lots at 11 at night. I also forgot to mention, the exhaust system in my FWD did not fit after making it 4WD. I had a Y pipe for a subaru laying around so my car just has a Y pipe now and it's loud and my neighbors probably hate it but I do not care because codswallop them my car is 4WD now. You'll feel the same way, trust this. Edit: Oh yea, the DL does NOT have the wiring for the push button 4WD to actually work, there's a lever about 10 inches behind the trans dip stick that changes it from FWD to 4WD. That's important to know. And the carpet is different between FWD and 4WD, the gear stick moves forward about 2 inches so your shift boot will never fit right again until you get a new carpet which is the same between coupes, wagons, and sedans. Um, what else. Also buy tires. You'll need them if you want to drive it like I do. I'll add more and add photos of the build later and be all detailed with the photos so you know what's happening. This should be fine for now, right?

Okay, I'll have to add pictures soon, but, I just completed the conversion to make my FWD DL become 4WD. If there's any interest in this, I'll post up pictures and a description/ instructions for the build and the best methods of afroengineering it all together. Until then, I'm going to take a shower and if anyone cares I will post up the build. I've attached a photo of the car which received the work.

These cars came with 5 transmissions: Manual, 5 Speed, FWD Manual, 5 Speed, High/Low which is the best one you can get because it's all mechanical and you get low gears. FWD, 4H, 4L Manual, 5 Speed, Push Button 4 on the Fly. So, there's a button on the shift knob that takes you from Front Wheel Drive to 4WD High. There are no low gears for this. Auto, 3 Speed, FWD Auto, 3 Speed, Push Button 4 on the Fly offering FWD and 4WD High. There are no low gears for this. The Autos, being 3 Speed, don't offer as good of fuel economy, and they are incredibly notorious for having their governor gears applecore and spoob out. The governor gear is the main gear that flips between the other gears and it's pretty easy to fix, but, you have to pull the trans and tear it all apart, which might not be easy for you. I've seen those tranny's dump at about 150,000-180,000 Miles. So, personally, I would never buy an automatic GL/ Loyale. What the automatic GL's/ Loyales are good for are pulling engines, because at Pull N Save there are assloads of the auto cars, and you know it ran and the trans dumped, so, the auto cars are just supplies of low-mile motors. That' their only value. Edit: Also! The radiators in the auto cars are bigger, thus better, so, they're good for putting a radiator upgrade on your manual car.

You can put any Subaru seat in it, from an old gen 2 like what you have, to a brand new Legacy. You just replace the rails on the bottom so it matches yours, which also means you do have access to modern aftermarket. However, your rear folding benchseat cannot be replaced. You'll have to have it covered or reupholstered or removed.

Have you tried turning it off, removing the key for 30 seconds, and trying to turn it back on again?

The intakes are the same, and the motormounts are the same, and the motor will match up to the trans, and your clutch should fit. I know people swap EA81's into EA82 cars for reliability.

I see SUPER shitty brats sell for $1500 all day and to buy one for $800-1000 would be a really good deal, but to be honest, it sounds like that's a fair deal, seeing as if that brat were a hatch, coupe, sedan, or wagon it would be worth $400 if it ran. $300 if it didn't run. $6-700 if it were in nice shape. It's stupid how expensive brats are, but, they were cool when they were new, then weren't interesting, rusted away into nothingness, and then became cool again. They cost more than they're worth, but, I definitely want one. I need a brat, but, only if it has the jumpseats.

Mine came with a 4wd gas tank. Just look under it and see if it has a hump that goes up into it where the pumpkin should be in the rearend. Never know when the factory didn't have FWD tanks and just stuffed a 4WD in there.

I've done the FWD to 4WD conversion on that exact car, mine is the coupe, it is a process, but, I can explain how to do it. I'll make a thread because I've never found one. It's a photo of mine when it recieved a rebuilt motor and a pushbutton 4WD trans. The tough part is the rear-end, but, I'll put it all in my thread when everything is doen and compiled.

That's the original hood I was telling you about that got rocked by a deer, and then rocked by flipping up on the freeway, and then rocked by me hitting it to drive home. It's refusing to upload the picture of a destroyed Subaru. I guess it'd be blasphemy on this forum, I only have one photo of the messed up front end. So, this is when I replaced it. Anyway, I'll toss in a couple project photos. Missing rear quarter panel: I had already removed the original cracked windshield with a hammer when I realized one from a wagon doesn't fit properly. And these are the speakers that didn't fit in the doors. Or not that photo won't upload either. Was it blashemy too?

It was good to meet you man, it's really interesting how similar these cars are and how different. Still jealous that yours has a body left and a front valance and spoiler that I didn't take. I'm actually really excited to get both of our cars out, when mine's got the fuel tank rust/ fuel filter issue settled and see how they compare up side by side. Mine wasn't bad though when it wasn't choking. The difference in the gearing will definitely be interesting because we both have good motors. Yours would probably take off better than mine, with the low gearing and all, despite mine having a higher top speed. How this relates going within the 30-60MPH range will be interesting though if we go head to head some time. It's just good to find somebody who not only is into Subarus, but, is into racing them, and essentially owns my exact car. Even if I tried to buy that car. x.x;; Had I bought that one, I was going to autocross the tan one you saw today and baby the white one you have to death. I guess they'll both be racing now though, meeting you, I feel much less resentful and angry about that car. You have relieved me from hatred and anger. This is good.

I'm not sure what that is, it's a road that runs along the river and passes the water treatment facility. I go down 2nd toward downtown, make a right onto howard, left onto (riverside? The one by the park) and get onto the maple street bridge going north, left on boone, onto Pettet Road and it turns into this road eventually at a fork. It's a really nice road. I saw you drive past my house about 10 minutes ago. Kind of funny. Did you see a White short bus parked on 4th ave?

I'd have to think about that. There is a road that I like to zip around on, when we meet sometime I'll have to show you. At the moment, I've run out of gas and don't get paid until Friday. x.x So, I'm on a motorbike right now. Also, I can basically tour you through everything you need to know about that car, and I literally have almost every part to an old Subaru, and I also have the hatch with glass that fits our cars. (These are incredibly rare to find, I wish I had gotten the doors and quarter glass) The windshields are also super rare to find, and mine needed a new one, but, I sort of made one from a wagon fit. I can explain later. On mine, I pulled the motor/ trans/ rearend from a loyale, replaced all the gaskets and bearings, and put them into my car. It's a DL, which was the LOW end base model that only came in FWD. It's actually a very difficult conversion that I'm not completely done with. That said, I have been in these cars through and through. I don't know how yours drives, I was going to buy whether it drove or not because it had a good body and mine.. doesn't. But, you'll have to try driving mine, there's nothing like a basically brand new subaru. (The loyale motor had 092,000 miles when I did everything). My original motor had 272,000 on it, and someone put 14 mil bolts into 10mil bolt holes and cracked the head leaving me with compression in 3 cylinders, and the car idled like spoob, but, always started up and once moving ran like a champ, just slowly. Anyhow, I live behind the Fred Meyer on Thor/Freya if you live near by. ALSO, I have a 5 wheel sets for this car if you're interested.

I have one, my electric fan quit, so, I had to get the one that goes on the pump. Still ahve the mittle metal cover in a box though.

I was there man. x.x; I'm actually still kinda mad about it because there's another RX for sale and the owner won't respond to me.

I didn't even see the picture. The owner was going to sell it to me for $300, and I waited next to that car for about 3 hours before going home. He even called me saying he'd be there soon that he needed to get the title. I hate that guy. I have pictures of my car with that car though. You live in Spokane, wanna rally around with me?

The car is white and has a Ron Paul sticker on the hatch. The wheels are the rectangular H style ones. I know a lot about these cars, what do you want to know exactly?

I just walked out there. If you're talking about the rotor on the distributor, there's no play in it. Nor is there a visible screw.

I don't know an incredible lot about these cars, I just did an engine swap yesterday from 1991 Loyale into my 1987 GL. My '87 had almost 300,000 miles, still ran, but, it was time for a fresh motor, so, I put a 120,000 mile motor from my friend's totalled loyale in it. (It was rear ended) It started easily, ran great, accelerated easily, it was a fun little motor. But, I was driving and suddenly the motor just stopped, sputtered out. The engine was warmer than it should have been, so, I thought I might have lost head gaskets, but, no smoke, no coolant spew, and it didn't sound like I grenaded the motor. It just died and refused to start again. It turns over easily, no wierd noise or hesitation, it just won't start. I checked the oil when it died and it didn't look like milkshake (when coolant enters oil). So, I don't think it's headgaskets. I thought maybe I lost a timing belt, but, if I remove my distributor cap the distributor still rotates when I turn the engine over, which indicates timing. I know these cars have two timing belts, so, could I have lost te passenger side belt? I kind of think it would run, but, just run like spoob with half the timing. I don't know though. Anybody have any answers?