Bugaru
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Posts posted by Bugaru
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Ah ha! Great question and you're both pretty close. We will be using the rear output of a subaru transmission only. The tiny driveshaft will run back into a custom vertically oriented transfer case and the bottom driveline will run forward into a custom diff. The diff we have in mind has quick change gears and will be fitted with the 930 flanges. Unfortunately the cv angles would be too extreme to run off the trans side flanges with the engine as high and far forward as it is.
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Thanks Timothy, yes certified welder here.
I finally got around to building the motor mounts. The design allows for easy low profile engine removal; once the primary locking pins are removed the engine and transmission can just slide back with the use of a transmission jack. The oil pan needs to be trimmed a bit, but not much.
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Right on Jesse do the mid-engine! What year is your baja? I am going to try and document the process thoroughly so stay tuned.
Ha Ha, O.C.D. we have already discussed that very thing, but it may have to wait until the STI engine arrives. However, I am also building the cage in SolidWorks so I can “roll” it in there, several times if necessary.
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LOL, batcage.... Glad you guys like it, more pics coming soon after the rear cage gets finished.
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IRS Conversion
Rear Suspension Mount
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Hello again USMB. Have a look at the new build my roommate and I
started over the summer. It’s a 1968 IRS
conversion; it has FOA shocks with 14" rear travel, 12" front travel,
18" ground clearance and an EJ25 stuffed into the roll cage. We will also be
using a “mild” turbo as well as a Subaru 5 speed transmission.
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Hey,
Had a blast up there, those were some good trails. Here's a link to the all pics we got, I'll post the video once I capture it.
http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f256/tv_pir8/WCSS11%20Off%20Road/?albumview=grid
After we got back to camp, Jake and I hammered out the radius arm rod and headed back to Banks. Sorry I missed you guys, wasn't sure where everyone went and we were leaving for San Diego the next morning. Thanks for the tour and brake line, hope we're square on the trade.
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You could build a rear engine soob, reversing the engine, transaxle, driveline and rear diff. Also you could weld both the diffs solid and remove one of the reduction gears front and rear to drive on the street. Seems possible.
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Just an update,
I have driven 900 mi on the conversion and no problems. I will need to install limiting straps to prevent camber change under acceleration, but overall, all is good. GD, PM me your phone number, I will be in Portland on Thursday.
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Yeah, I forgot about those slotted ones I had. I really don't think you can get further in on the strut towers, not enough to make a difference. Do ea82 struts allow more adjustment inwards? That would make the axle conversion easier later. This thing is mad my friend, what are we going to do to fix the rear ea81 suspension? Has anybody done the VW conversion yet? I can get one easy.
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"What kept you from just cutting and lengthening the stock inner tie rod?"
I thought of doing that but I'd like to keep the parts easy to replace. I'm sure you could fit one together that way, might want to make some spares though.
"Did you just form a cone from a sheet of shim stock?"
Well, pretty much, I got it as close as I could and then fit it and the tie rod end into the knuckle and let the tightening do the rest. I pulled it apart later and had a look, it turned out to be a very tight even fit. I've been driving on it for a couple days now and it is staying put. If you are thinking about doing the conversion, I would strongly recommend it, so far all good, no bad.
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Ok, the ground clearance has changed from adjustment, it's more like 12.5" now. I don't remember what it was before. I spent a lot of time in the junkyard looking at steering components and I chose the VW tie rod ends because they have the same thread as the inner tie rod (male, right hand M14 1.5). These have also been proven tough by many years of abuse by myself and by many Baja racers. The taper where it fits into the knuckle is a close fit, but the diameter is a hair smaller. When tightned down it goes in too far and you loose the full range of motion so I made a stainless steel cone shaped shim that solves that problem, for now. Still very solid. Now were working with 2 male right hand threaded ends that need to be joined. After close inspection, I found that Mercedes seems to have the strongest tierod shaft with proper thread and compression fitting/clamps. The shaft has to be cut down almost in half to 4.5 inches, cutting off the inner, left hand threaded end. Now just tap that cut end to match, fit the clamp, done.
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I ran it at highway speeds today, drives better than before. I'll get more pics later.
Left to right: ea81 inner tierod, Mercedes compression fitting, Mercedes shaft, tapped and cut end with Mercedes clamp fitting, 60s VW tierod end.
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New control arms, added 1 7/8" to length. Top and bottom gaps filled with 1/8" plate. 1/8" x 1" flatbar welded the length inside and out. Reinforced radius rod support, (still uses one stock hole, other is plug welded to support) boxed in the whole length.
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I managed to get the EA82 front axles to fit my hatchback without welding on the tie rod components or the radius arm rod. The only welding was on the control arm and it's construction is solid. I have perfect camber with a 4 3/4" strut lift(4" body lift) and 13.5- 14" front ground clearance.
Parts list-
EA82 front axles
92 Legacy front outer wheel seals(for the inner ea81 knuckle) Perfect fit.
60s VW outer tie rod ends
80s Mercedes tie rod "shaft"
m14 X 1.5 tap
misc steel flatbar and such.
Trial run and pics tomorrow.
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"Cat maybe?"
Shake your exhaust around, does it rattle? Both of the busted cats I've had you could hear making a racket.
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I had a similar problem and it turned out to be low fuel pressure. It would idle fine and run well at low rpms, but once you got into it, sputter sputter. Now I have an aftermarket pump and a regulator so I could dial it in just right. No more problems. You could install a fuel pressure gauge at the carb ($5) just to make sure you have enough pressure, good to have one anyway.
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I am unable to do the cross member swap due to the way I built the existing one into the skid plate/cage assembly. At least for now.
Heh Heh..."SUPER hillbilly style" not just the regular hillbilly style.
I've got an acceptable amount of clearance up front(although more would be nice), I wanted to lengthen the control arms and fit the EA82 axles to correct the nasty positive camber problem I have. The adjustable lift helps but not quite enough. It looks like the struts will clear the fenders after the mod without anymore cutting.
I need a new set of front tires and I don't want to burn em up when I come to Portland.
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Is there a universally agreed upon measurement to lengthen EA81 lower control arms to fit the longer EA82 axles properly? I can't seem to find a specific thread. Also looking for any feedback from those who have done it, pros, cons?
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I'm taking the I5 and 580 up to San Fran, then 101 up through Humboldt and then 199 through Grants Pass and North to I5. Pretty much the scenic route.
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A few other welded diff things, Anti-seize the crap outta the inner and outer stub/DOJ splines, I've never had one get stuck, even after sitting for over a year when water was all in it. Carry an extra axle assembly because you're more likely to bust a DOJ with a welded diff, and don't forget to carry a few extra roll pins. But most of all push it to see how far you can take it, GD and I did some comparisons when I was still running an open diff, there is no comparison. If you can weld it, do it.
Working out Bugs In the Breaks
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Dang that master cylinder looks like hell. That's awesome you got all of the brakes working again though, I'm glad the other components were still good. The low oil pressure may be a bad sending unit and or gauge. I don't remember anything about either of them but I do know oil pressure wasn't ever a problem.