ARJ

Is there such a gearbox as a close ratio AWD that bolts direct to an EA82 motor Iv'e never heard of such a box but was told they do exist ??

Anyone know where I can get the flywheel (ring gear ) bolts to the engine for a EA82 turbo ?

Does anyone know if a 1987 brat (brumby) ignition lock assembly will fit a 1991 brat (brumby) or where and if a 1991 lock assembly can be purchased thanks ARJ

Ahh the sound that sounds right and legal (just) I have a brumby with a EA82 Turbo (genuine 60k on motor) Three inch exhaust one straight through hot dog and one standard muffler sound is 1 decibel under legal a really nice note .Sometimes I insert a 3 inch OD to 2 inch funnel fitting into the tail pipe as the back pressure quietens the exhaust to only just audible. Just a silly cooment but true

Confused ?? different answers without a pressure regulator on the outlet side of the inlet manifold it would seem you rely on the pump pressure I dont think the ECU controls the pump pressure as there doesn't appear to be a sensor there . Think I'll look for a rx fuel pump or as I was told a pump from a twin tank F100 . Can't see how you can get higher pressure on boost without a sensor control to the pump as increased flow would result in pressure drop pure physics ,Capacity is litres per minute at rated pressure increase flow results in pressure drop to maintain pump capacity . Thanks for advice This is interesting and fun to test these theories

Does any one know what the fuel pressure should be for a Subaru RX turbo EA82 .I have a complete motor all attatchments ,ECU and wiring harness plus a new never used 5 speed hi low range box to suit 3.7 ratio which I wish to test run on the garage floor . I either need the fuel pump to suite or to know the required fuel preesure. Can anyone help ARJ

Thanks for help. Problem was distributer vacuums advance bellows stuffed would not advance the timing. Grandson said sounds like timing isn't advancing under load smart little bugga only 11.. A suck on the tube and tongue over tube hole no hold vacuum . God help us oldies ,New dizzy , reset back to mark runs fine GUESS WHO FEELS STUPID

Should of mentioned on turbo ea engine it's easier to put two stud bolts into engine flange one either side to align sump pan without it sliding to one side thus wiping off permatex as I said maybe over the top but hay it works ARJ

Disagree with the experts personal experience tells me different ,coat the pan surface with permatex , smear one side of gasket completely with thin coating of permatex lay coated side of gasket on pan with screws through bolt holes (to insure alignment of holes) slight pressure all round on gasket leave an hour or two until it hold shape over holes ,Coat other side of gasket with thin layer of permatex , coat engine flange with thin layer of permatex bolt sump pan to engine take up pressure only to ensure full surface contact evenly all round . Leave 24hrs then tighten to either torque pressure or about half to three quarters of a further turn, "don't over tighten" . The permatex on the gasket helps stop it spreading . Permatex black seals larger gaps and sticks better to oil usage situations than either grey or copper ,but these work just as well Over the top maybe but guaranteed to seal always . Always clean surfaces with degreaser wash clean dry ,then permatex gasket cleaner or brake cleaner either works fine

These alignments I know and have followed. Left side (facing foward) when the hole in the in the pulley aligns with the notch in the plastic it slowly overheats when driven constantly at 110 kph - (65mph ) or higher and pings under load when temp exceeds normal .When the hole is after the notch say one belt notch towards 1 'clock it consistently pings when under load but doesn't get hot yet when one belt notch before the plastic notch say towards 11;oclock it runs fine. Doesn't make sense andI

Doesn't make sense The timing on the right side is set to the marks all good the ,left side set to cam pulley mark engine runs hot and under load and pings set mark on left side cam pulley after mark engine pings when not hot under load and looses power , set to cam pulley before mark engine runs ok doesn't ping or get hot . Mark refers to the slot on the back timing belt cover . Any ides why cam pulley has pin so can't be wrongly positioned , timing is set by no1 plug on opposite side (piston 1 )

Anyone ever use permatex ultra copper to coat a oil pan cork gasket . Thinking this because of its extra adhesive qualities ?

Thanks think I'll stick to the standard struts and discs have a rx rear disc brake system and just fitted an imported EA82T motor I purchased as an import 4yrs ago ,kept the bore wd40 filled since; engine is like new no colouring of engine pipe perfect compression even timing belt was like new no residue inside covers . ,brought a ea82t new never used 5 speed dual range box last year off ebay ,all fitted into a brumby - brat with the legacy booster ,Only changed the dizzy so I could run the three plug ECU not the 4 plug as the engine was originally fitted with also changed the throttle body to one from the 3 plug ECU .Three inch exhaust . Wow runs very smooth, cold idle 1500 hot idle 800 Sounds great runs great stops great .Maybe not up to ej turbo but the as new ea82t is great . Running gear etc might be from the early 90s but as it is all as new runs like new . Now to strip and customise the the little fella Now a EA82T fan PS runs a 7 to 10 psi boost adjustable mostly use the 7 psi

Think there is a misunderstanding here I wanted to fit the Leone RX turbo (ea82t) 1986 to 1989 front struts with the larger brake callipers and rotors to a brat ,brumby the angle to the wheel axels is slightly different to the standard brat , brumby struts . Will this cause when'll alignment hassels The disc mounts can be redrilled Maybe spacers on strut mounts to compensate for angle difference .? ARJ

Is it possible to fit later model struts to a brumby- brat to get the larger brakes and a new wheel stud pattern ? Help needed