ARJ

How can you tell if the 5 speed dual gearbox has a final drive ratio of 3.7 or 3.9.?? it is out of a RX

How do you tell if the final drive ratio is. 3.7 or. 3.9

Thanks for help , Dizzy has a four pin plug . Old motor had the vaccume not working yet motor ran great till turbo blew a seal Shall use all the old inlet gear Brought motor from Rollin imports Burleigh Heads QLD Its like new no dirty marks even inside timing belt covers was spotless ; fitted new belts but old belts looked fine Once again thanks to everyone especially ruparts ARJ

The throttle body MEFI intake manifold and piping is all the same as the old motor only difference is the dizzy and the position of no1 spark plug lead can't use the one that it came with as the cap is cracked .Inside everything is covered by a metal plate . Also there is a hole in the cap between 1 and 4 which looks like it would take a tube the the size of the vacuum tube to the dizzy , its just a hole like an extra ht lead fitting with a solid Bakelite raised section inside it that would take a vacuum size tube. there is nothing connected to the inside of the hole . never seen anything like it before Every thing on the motor is exactly the same as the old motor even the dizzy caps are interchangeable . could maybe just use another cap and see what goes . Not sure of year model as I brought the original motor three years ago ,its in a 92 Brumby - Bratt with the 5 speed dual range box Went pretty well till turbo put water into the heads then it stopped Tony J

I have just purchased a EA82 imported motor every thing looks fine and in as new condition . The distributor does not have a vacume advance Can I use the same ecufrom the old motor or do I need to use the dizzy with the vaccume advance from the old motor as I only have the ecu from the old motor plus a spare ecu also from a motor with the vacume advance fitted Tony J

ea82 turbo efi motor now runs great BUT It appears to be leaking oil from the front centre of the oil pan ,Have tried 3 times ,used bluemax loctite (1), the rightstuff permatex (2) and last time two gaskets with j3 earo gasket goo . Only ever leaks from the one spot every time which is where the block split is joined . Any suggestions sounds like a replacement motor is required ? Tony J

Does anyone know if it is possible to purchase a NEW sump pan for an EFI EA82 motor All the 2nd hand ones I have looked at or even brought have the bolt hole circular flange section higher than than the surrounding two raised flange lips . Does not matter where as I'm prepared to pay postage from anywhere . I'm in NSW Australia . Any clues please ? ARJ

Gotcha thanks understand what you mean

Thanks did not know if that is possible due to the Brumby's rear suspension set up with torsion bars . So it isn't a big hassel to change the diff ? Ha no all caps was half way through when notice caps on to lazy to rewrite ARJ

IS IT POSSIBLE TO CHANGE THE DIFF RATIO ON A BRUMBY TO 4.11 JUST WANT UP GRADE THE OLD EA82T TO A EJ20 NON TURBO NOT AFTER A HOTTY JUST A RELIABLE MOTOR AND A AWD SET UP RATHER THAN THE HI LOW 4 WHEEL DRIVE BOX AS PARTS ARE NO LONGER EASY TO OBTAIN AND VERY EXPENSIVE ARJ

I there any reason why I cant fit a EJ20 or EJ22 into a brat brumby and run it as a rear wheel drive only ?? Has anyone ever done this before sounds a lot easier than doing the AWD bit . Maybe do the AWD change later ?? Any ideas ARJ

CONE WASHER IS IN THE RIGHT WAY ONE SIDE IS MARKED OUTER . DIDN"T PUT THAT MUCH PRESSURE ON BEARINGS WHEEL NUT AS TOONGA STATED I HAVE A TENSION WRENCH BUT CAN NOT FIND ANYWHERE THAT GIVES TENSION FOR WHEEL HUB NUTS . SHALL USE THE AHH F--K TIGHT METHOD ON THE NUT THANKS FOR HELP

Have fitted new cv to front left of brumby . TIGHTENED wheel bearings locking nut with split pin no movement in bearing . 20ks later bearings loose , retightened new split pin approx 50 later bearing loose again . No grinding or noise . Shall change bearings but wondering is a common complaint with these vehicles , never came across it before . Or am I missing something ? ARJ

Mate if you mean the exhaust y pipe into the head forget helicoils been there done that the helicoil drills stuffs your chance of the next size drill and tap procedure and they wont last anyway . Drill and tap is the way to go ,you can drill a further 1/4 to 3/8 deeper no more use plenty of correct lube on tap and only about 1/2 to one turn at a time then clean out and do another 1/2 to one turn . If you stuff it up your in deep s---t so be slow and careful and make sure the tap angle is spot on . You may have to enlarge the y pipe flange holes possibly with a round file and trail and error . Good luck ARJ

Hi Had the same problem with other engines , the secrete use loctite 587 blue max no cork gasket . a 3/16 to 1/4 inch beed around sump ,leave stand 1hr . New bolts with star washers to lock them , very thin smear blue 587 over the engine sump flange area ,fit sump straight away and tighten bolts to contact pressure only . 24hrs later tighten all bolts working from centre on each side . Be sure to clean both surfaces completely , white spirits or similar even thought 587 will seal with reasonable clean a perfect clean is best at all times The smear on engine surface gives complete seal and then your not so much relying on the pressure between two surfaces to seal the sump but to hold the already made seal WORKS ON ALL FLANGE SEALS AN OLD FRIDGY'S TRICK USED ON REFRIGERATION COMPRESSORS BUT WITH DIFFERENT SEALANTS ARJ

Thanks for everyones help connecting the green plugs disconnecting suction advance and blocking hose . Resulting in able to set timing correctly so belts must be ok . new oil new filter plus oil flush additive resulted in smother idle . Ran engine 1hr including 20 minute drive .big difference . Drained oil , new oil , new filter plus a hydraulic lifter additive nice quiet engine but cannot get idle below 1000 to 1200rpm . Also built in turbo bov now working ,wasn't before flush out . 2nd hand engine must of been on self a fair while and oil lines full off goo I'm in Australia not U.S.A. but hay guys thanks not sure what your additives are but I used Wynn's and in this case it worked to a treat . Re leaking oil pan gasket ,the secrete is the old standby new bolts with star washer locknuts clean surface's with white spirits or similar then use loctite 587 gasket goo --- six mil -3/16 inch beed on sump leave stand 1 hr then smear engine pan with film of 587 and fit pan tighten to contact only leave 24hrs AND THEN tighten bolts in a opposite diagonal sequence . Works on bent eights and straight six and fours every time . Yeah the subbie bug is contagious and interesting even to an old fart like me (my son's terminology) ARJ

Bennie OK thanks but don't know how ARJ

Thanks shall check the belts tomorrow .Think I know what you mean Can the flywheel be put on any other way but the correct way . As I can't find a timing mark with a timing light and there is a fair bit of crankcase pressure . Does sound like a timing problem shall pull the front covers off to check . BUT even if the marks align whats this about the left side needing a separate revolution once marks are lined up ?? Also it seem the motor only runs when the dizzy rotor is pointing to number 3 plug with those three marks on the pointer ??. My first turbo ,first 4 cylinder ,only ever worked on vintage cars before rugged but easy to work on much simpler . Thanks for the help ARJ

Have a ea82 turbo when cold it won't idle no matter what idle adjustments .If throttle screw is wound in to let it idle cold ,it idles at 2000 hot . this is a 2nd hand motor I brought heaps of power uses no oil but seems to have a miss at low rpm's . Remove a spark plug lead doesn't seem to make much difference . Could timing belt be out , injectors cracked ends HELP ARJ