FlyBoy83
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Posts posted by FlyBoy83
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here's pix of final installed
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I got a rain-x product from az. The McGuire kit was about twice the price. I finally got time to mount the r side light tonight.
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which kit do you suggest?
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the shape of the newer lights has a lot more curve to the lens than the old one so the grill doesn't fit from the old one.
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I guess I could have just done this: would have been cheaper. Saw this in the parking lot.
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the old ones had the plastic grill in front I havent tried to see if the grill will snap on the lights yet, it looks like the lights have the tabs to hold the grill. I'm not shure how much good that plastic does. the new lights are significantly heavier plastic reflector and front glass.
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I had some trouble up loading pix on that last post. here are the pix of what I did.
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well my lights came last night and I looked at the old bracket and the new bracket and figured out that with a little modification to the old bracket the new lamp would fit. I had to trim the beam angle adjustment screw bracket and drill out the tabs to a larger dia then mount the lamp in the old bracket. it worked a lot slicker than I first expected
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I ordered a New set off ebay for a 2000 ish outback we'll see how my fab skills are over the weekend...
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I'm looking to replace my busted drivers side fog light. every outback I have found in the salvage yard has the drivers side glass busted on the fog light. I'm looking at Ebay and also at other Subaru products and considering trying to put something newer in the hole. I'm wondering if anybody has the dimentions for 2000 and newer lamp with and without the bracket to see if it is a close enough fit to make it work.
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change the front o2 sensor even if there isn't a code popping up for it?
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not yet but looking into it. i keep getting the fuel trim bank 1 fault code. now why it keeps sending bank 1 and not bank 2 I don't know unless it only has "1" bank even though there are 2 heads and rails. how easy is that pump to get to? is it one I can access through a hole in the floor or do I have to drop the tank?
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Got my o2 sensor installed. I think I've got everything resolved as far as the codes are concerned...
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even when it is 40-50 degrees it does the same thing. (yes this am it was a balmy 2 degrees f when I left for work). all the locks work or they all don't. I can hear something click in that dash when I flip the lock on the drivers door. it almost acts like a relay that doesn't connect long enough to actually unlock the doors. it always locks them though. I need a good wiring diagram of the locking system... where do you get one with out having to trade the car in for the book?
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I have a 96 Legacy Outback with intermittent lock issues and the haynes/chiltons manual isn't much help is tracing wires. I'm also not sure how the "features" of this locking system are supposed to work. is the locking control switch only in the drivers door or is it in both front doors? when is it only supposed to unlock the driver's door verse the other passenger doors and when does it unlock the rear hatch? some times it unlocks every thing some times it doesn't and it is random. you can hear the other locks try on the times that it doesn't.
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Ignore the previous comment. Used a different setting on the volt meter and got it set and the CEL is staying off for the moment. We'll see if only the O2 code comes back.
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With the ignition on the plug unplugged I get:
Pin A: 46.2 MV
Pin B: 0.4 MV
Pin C: 4.1 V
When I plug it in and back prob pin B I get 58.2-18.4 mV
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I got the EGR Parts installed. it runs a little smoother but the TBS and fuel trim codes are back... is there any better info on how to adjust that tps correctly. the ohm readings i get don't make any sense with what I'm reading. the tps was fine for like two weeks...
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found the EGR Parts at a Salvage from a 1999 model... we'll see if it makes any difference or not...
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the TPS Code came back last night. I can't seem to find any good info on how to adjust it... the guy at the import parts store said ignore the rear o2 sensor (fix it last). he said on the 96 it is merely tattle for the cat sys but the fuel trim is not based off rear sensor. im not sure how much the EGR system would effect the TPS or not.
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I replaced several vac lins that were hard and the upper pcv hose tightend and checked the hose clemps etc on the intake "snorkle" i thought i would trace the rear o2 sensor and see what I could figure out on that one... turn out really obvious it looks like the wires snagged on something and it completely removed the plug from the sensor. there are just three frazzled wires poking out of the o2 sensor. any way I drove the car to work this am and so far the CEL has not returned. it does have a slight hicup every now and then or delayed throttle responce.
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it looks as thoug I need to replace all the Vac lines and pcv hoses. they are hard as rocks and cracked and looks like sombody's jimmy rigged mess ontop of that... does any one have a pic of what the vac lines on the EJ2.5 DOHC. also the EGR system so I can recognize all the parts that go with it cause the only piese of the EGR that I have is the valve on the intake manifold all the egr orofices are plugged with pipe plugs. looking at the vac diagram it looks like there is a over-presure sensor of some kind that is also missing not sure how it connects in or what it looks like either...
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the ones that came back are as follows:
p0106, p0170, p141, p0403
I'm calculating my mpg at each fill up. I have figured out that even though the Owners manual says it is a 15.2gal tank when the gauge says E I usually put in about 10 gal. I've been getting 12-15mpg here the last week. the crazy part is that when we drove it to E Tenn for thanksgiving we were getting between 25-26mpg with the bad TPS and all the other stuff whacky too. I tried to figure it out while out there ended up not really changing anything and coming back we averaged between 19-20mpg (it is roughly 800mi each way).
while I was working on the MAF I found that a number of the VAC lines are hard as rock and/or oil saturated. the MAF had what sounds like a loose bee bee rattling inside the box. my Chilton's manual wasn't really helpful is telling me much about resistance readings on the pins of the MAF to check if it was OK or not. a new one from AZ is like $230 really hoping that it isn't the MAF.
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the CEL stayed off for most of yesterday am but this am it was on when I hopped in to go to work, I haven't checked to see what the codes are yet that came back but I can tell I'm getting something like 12mpg...
I'll see which ones they are this evening and go from there...
94 Legacy Cruise Control
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
working on a 94 Legacy L that came from factory w/o Cruise control an aftermarket cruise control was added by a subaru dealer back in like 97ish. the cruise control quit functioning. I was looking at similar year models and it doesn't look too hard to "transplant" the cruise control from on that has a factory install. the question is "do all the OEM ECU's contain the capability to operate the Cruise control or do I need to swap the ECU?