golucky66

See i assumed we are talking about the EA82T which i wasn't sure if it required 91+. If it did require 91+ running lower octane then what is recommend can cause timing to retard to prevent knock. At least on all modern cars. So does the EA82T only require 87?

Personally, on my 04 Baja Turbo (much newer, i know) but if i run anything less then 91 octane, my car retards the timing so much that it feels like I'm driving a NA car. Most places in my area only have 93. So that's what i use. Though the few times I've found and ran 91 i never noticed a different from 91-93.

An Airlift is just a tool for a technician to "in theory" fill the system without getting air in. It works by pulling a vacuum on the entire system, and then you stick the hose into the coolant, open the valve, and the vacuum in the system will pull in the coolant. I'm not saying get one, please don't bother. It can be helpful for a technician, but not necessary on any car. If you can't get the RPM trick to work, worst case if you could pull the upper heat core hose off, fill the heater core with coolant (as much as it will take and then start the process over again. I doubt you'd need to do that but another option. Many ways to get air out of the system. Just gotta find the one that works in your situation.

Probably air in the system. Provided you used an OEM or OEM style thermostat (bunch of topics on here about thermostats) I've had issues with bleeding air from the system on a bunch of subarus. Typical, in my experience, the heatercore doesn't like to fill up, and because of that, coolant doesn't circulate properly and can sometimes even cause the thermostat not to open. Do you know if the vents were blowing hot air? Because of they were, it might be the thermostat. But if they weren't blowing hot air, you have air in the heater core you need to get out. Again, in my experience, a trick I learned from a guy on iATN is to get the heater core to fill all the way. Step on the gas pedal and get the RPMs to shoot up (not much over 3k though) and then let them settle, and continue to do that until the vents blow hot (obviously monitoring coolant temp and don't let it overheat) I tend to have to do that on most subarus I open the cooling system on, even after using my airlift. Good luck! Also, do you have a scan tool you can monitor live data with? Most Subaru's I've worked on in the 08' area, fans turn on around 212 degrees F and shut off around 204 (the shut off depends a lot though, but the turn on is almost always right around 212 +/- 2 degrees)

Yes. Whenever the A/C is running the fans will be on.

So what's you're saying is a leak AFTER the cat and BEFORE the rear O2? Because that makes sense. I'm wondering about after the rear O2. Can that actually alter the rear O2's readings?

A leak after the rear O2 set a P0420? Didn't think it mattered at all So long as the leak is after the rear O2

Imo, get it check out by a certified professional before you possibly cause more harm then good.

Unless you're alignment is completely off, 5000 miles on tires wouldn't cause a vibration from tire issue.

Have the balance rechecked by the same shop that just rotated them. Likely they were balanced properly, or the tech used the wrong wheel weight and some fell off and now the tires are out of balance. Or if they didn't balance them when they were rotated, have them balanced.

I think the bosals we put on tend to last up to like 4 years (sometimes sooner) then the lovely p0420 comes back. Ove never seen a bosal rust out like a lot of members complain about (and I'm in CT)

At my shop we only use Bosal Ultra High Performance (or whatever it's called) typically good luck. IMO nothing lasts as long as OEM.

Ok. Cool. Thanks for all the info!

Gotcha. So how do some of you guys get away with running massive tires on like the EA's? Modified fenders or are they just big to begin with?

Does anyone know or have experience with the max tire size that can be put on a 04 Baja with a 2" lift (strut spacers) Factory size is 225/60/16 which if my calculations are right is about 26.5" in diameter. What could i realistically fit under there with minimal rubbing. I saw somebody posting about barely being able to fit 29" tires with a 4" SJR lift (subframe drop etc.) and it seems like I'm missing something. Raising the vehicles body 4 inches and barely getting 3" extra diameter in for tires? Am i missing something? Does anyone on these forums have any experience with lifting Baja's?

Agreed. We need a little more info on your preferences etc. But imo unless you want performance get the Impreza (if you're truly limited to those three)

Heh. Yeah. I have earmuff. But what's like "it'll come right out" Yeah. Bad decision. Don't be stupid like me. Be safe.

^ +1 Yep. There's two screws in there. Pain in the butt without the right tools.

I'm not sure how the older cars axles are set up. But on my 09 forester, the front axles we so unbelievably stuck i ended up using an air hammer with a round tip and using the air hammer to get it out. Didn't damage my axle and it came out (after about 30 seconds of hammering. Omg my ears hurt after that one)

I'm pretty sure they do blink whenever the key isnt in the accessory position or on. It doesn't kill the battery if that's what you're worried about.

I've done it both ways. Imo it's much easier to get the torque converter bolts in with the intake off due to the throttle body etc. But it can be done with it on just going to take you longer. The chain with the coil, I also noticed that when I pulled one a few weeks ago, so I just took the take off before removing the engine. Because if you're tearing the engine apart anyways, the intakes gotta come off. So why not be extra safe and not chance it.

I got brand new nozzles for my 85 brat a few months ago from the dealer. If you can't find some one who has any or used ones, a quick call to a local, friendly dealer might land you new ones.

I personally don't think you can change that... At least you couldn't on older models. It was so one press let's the driver in, and if you wanted to unlock them all you do the double press and all unlock. Maybe with the newer models in the car its possible? If so if you (as the owner) could do it, it'd probably be in the owners manual. If it's even a option/feature to change that, and no in your manual. It would likely require a dealership to use the oem scan tool to change it.

I have no idea. Lol tbh its just been sitting in the car since my accident. I've been trying to figure out what to do with the car. I'd love to get another svx but I just can't right now. I'm assuming the rebuild has (or had) some kind of warranty on it. Not sure if it still applies (sorry) I could see if I could find some paperwork for the rebuild. I have it somewhere. Just no idea where. I'm assuming you're talking about the 6-speed as OBD2? Because the tranny is obd1.

Too bad your across the country. I have a svx tranny that was rebuild 10k ago 100kish on it total) that is from a 94. Shifted good too (before the car got totaled )