golucky66

If the line is actually chewed to the point where you're worried about it leaking, or just want the piece of mind. You'll need to order that hose from the dealer, or maybe someone in the aftermarket world. Because where it connects to the intake, that's a quick disconnect. So there no real way to replace that line and keep the disconnect there.

If your talking about the one with the mesh on it. That's a fuel supply hose. And the hose directly under that one is the fuel return hose.

I used the fel pro head gasket set because it's a multi layer steel gasket unlike to single layer OEM gasket which then uses a coating to get proper sealing. But I know people on these forums' have used the OEM turbo gasket and they've worked.

The 13570AA052 part is 52$ brand new from the dealer if yoy didn't wanna chance it.

Battery voltage of 12.3 is low ASSUMING it was fully charged the previous day/early. If this car has been cranked over and over and never driven for long (>20 minutes) 12.3 might not be an issue. Just might mean the battery needs a good charge.

I honestly don't know a huge amount about how automatic transmissions work (in depth at least). But isn't the lock up just fluid pressure being applied to the torque converter. And therefore is a solenoid that controls that lock up? Couldn't you in theory run a switch to manually lock up the torque converter? Obviously that would never be practical, if even possible. But just curious.

Awesome. Glad its fixed!

A 1000CA battery is quite big for the car and the charging system that's designed around a 550 CCA battery. Unless you're in very cold climates, I don't see a need for such a big battery. You're just paying more for a bigger battery that's still only going to last 3-6 years.

What is leaking exactly? The "engine is leaking" is not something to go off of. Unless the head gaskets are puking oil or leaking coolant. There's not really a need to do an engine reseal. And even then. The only aditional thing to seal when doing the HG job is the oil pan. Because nobody splits the block. So figure out what's actually leaking and fix it from there. Don't have them reseal the engine if it's a lea from the valve cover. And if they say they don't know what's leaking, it's too messy. Tell them you want them to wash the area and put dye in it and figure out what's leaking.

So the reason that YouTuber said it could be your gas gap is because whenever newer Subarus get a code in the ecm. It turns multiple lights on. Typically the check engine light, stability/traction control light, and cruse flashes. So the gas cap being loose will set an EVAP large leak code in the ecm. Which in turn, turns on all those lights. The only way the gas cap would cause dash lights was if there was that code in the ecm for EVAP large leak. And seeing as you pulled the code(s) and that wasn't one of them. The gas cap isn't an issue. The check engine light came on because the crankshaft code and it stayed on while it saw a current fault that trip. The light(s) might e went out because after the car sat and the next time it started, the crankshaft sensor wasn't a active fault, and it turns into a history code. Either way. Get it looked at. And your no start should be fixed.

I highly doubt the gas cap had anything to do with the crank code. But that crankshaft position sensor malfunction would definitely cause a no start or extended crack condition.

Wasn't the a left field issue where someone had similar issues and it was something related to the P/S?

You're not leaking fuel right? From say, the filler neck?

Well for the one with the handle still on it, you can put a wrench of it and gently turn it out. The other side you might be able to get vice grips on it and try and work it back and forth until it comes out.

Yeah if the parking shoes were hitting the drum the wheel would have a fair amount of play. Easiest way to verify if the shoes are/were hitting is take the disc off and see if there's abnormal wear, marks, groves etc. If there's no marks of anything out of the ordinary and the wheel doesn't have play you might have something else going on. Not saying its definitely not the wheel bearing though. Not sure on how hard the wheel bearing job is. I haven't done one of a pre 2000 in a long while.

If it's discs, it's still possible with the parking brake shoes now that I think about it. Had it happen to my dads 99 OBW.

Rear drums? If so, wheel bearing is bad enough where the shoes are hitting the drum.

If the AT light comes on solid while driving, I'm pretty sure its saying the at fluid is overheating. Either that or its illuminated to say there's a fault in the tcm system. Not sure if the light can come on for any reason besides an overheating issue while driving. So. At this point. Try pulling codes from the ecm. And also, try getting codes from the tcm. I bet there's on in there as stored. You can find how to pull codes from the tcm somewhere on this website. Not sire where though. And report back with ecm and tcm codes!

When the light flashes. Is there a pattern? Any long flashes followed by short flashes. Or just a flashing light? When does it flash? With the FWD fuse installed, or not installed? When driving or when idling? The more info you can post the more we can help. Doubtful the ABS light being on would cause the limp home mode. But how long has the ABS light been on? Also, does the check engine light actually illuminate when you first turn the key on? If you can get your hands on a scan tool, try pulling codes from the ECM. Even if the light isn't on, a code might be stored that can help us narrow this down.

So if it shifts through all the gears and function properly when in FWD but doesn't shift past 2nd in AWD. I highly doubt its a mechanical issue with shift solenoids. It sounds like there is something (possibly trouble code) that when the cars in AWD the ecm/tcm is saying "there's something wrong. Limp home mode!" And you're stuck to 1st and 2nd. Check engine light on? AT oil light flash at start up? AT fluid level ok and condition to horrible?

So does it shift past 2nd when in FWD?

I'm sure others would give better detail. But with that budget id get my hands on a nice EJ257 (STI engine). Get a ECM or aftermarket one and use that. Going to be the quickest way to have a lot more HP. No sense messing with a NA engine when you'll never be able to compete with an EJ257 that's also built.

Well if all his presets are still there, and it's just the current station being changed to the lowest. Then a lack of, key off power wouldn't do that. BUT if he is also losing his presets, then yes for sure it's a power issue.

You're probably checking the front diff fluid. Which is gear oil. The trans dip stick is typically on the drivers side of the car.

Heh, I did a manual swap on a buddies 96 impress. I put that ground wire that your talking about on a paint covered hole (so not a good ground if at all) and the car would not crank. And if it did crank it wouldn't even start. I don't remember where it went sorry. But yeah. I had to get a different guy to help me realize all my issues was traced to that bad ground.