golucky66

When he said cold he just meant filling the transmission at idle when you first start the car, so the fluid is still cold. Anytime transmission fluid is checked (or added on certain systems, like yours) the vehicle needs to be idling in park.

Very true.

Depending on how the filler and check is set up. You might need the temperature between like 97-113 degrees F to have it be 100% accurate.

Was the car running and in park when you checked it/tried adding more? Because it needs to be idling.

Get one from a junk yard?

Obviously most of us know that the early gens of the FB25 consumed oil. So follow up question. Would using a 5w20 actually help reduce oil consumption during warm up because it's 5 and not 0? And/or does using conventional in theory help reduce consumption at all?

So, I know FB25 engines require 0w20 synthetic oil. What are advantages and disadvantages of running synthetic 5w20 or even conventional 5w20 (assuming all the same brand) I'm not asking because I want to run 5w20. I'm asking because I've seen dealer techs using 5w20 in the FB engine and I want to know why.

First of all. Disconnect the green connectors. It's not supposed to be connected. If it still doesn't run/start. Might be a ground cable left off the transmission.

A/C will run whenever the defrost is on (typically, newer cars have a temperature shut off) but on an 02 the compressor should run when the defroster is on

Are the new(er) foresters actually still based off the imprezas chassis? I know they were when they came out. But I thought they got revised into their own chassis now? The crosstrek is off the impreza chassis though. To OP. An outback would be your ideal choice for a comfortable ride while still having all the perks of a Subaru.

If you have a lift. Imo It's easier to pull the transmission. If you don't have a lift. Definitely the engine.

If the brake fluid is low it will set a brake light for sure and agreed, possibly the three that are currently on. My guess is there is a fault in the ABS module for a wheel speed of some sort. Though it never hurts to check basics.

Yeah. I was talking about the cover. My bad Though I see a ton of Craigslist ads for the canopy and none ever for the cover.

Imo I would never use unplugging the battery as a means to reset a light. True the lights can come on for ambiguous reasons. But it could be an intermittent fault. And without having the codes pulled and knowing which ones were stored, if the lights come back on in the future. You'll never know if it's a new issue. Or the old intermittent issue is getting worse. Get the codes pulled. It's typically free. Write down the numbers. Car is safe to drive but get it looked at asap. Your ABS and traction control likely won't work. So just be safe.

There's a guy that makes then out of his house. Very nice (I think) but he charges 700$ (I think) I plan on making my own.

If you think the bulb might be out. Unplug the fuel pump, turn the key on and wait a bit. The light should light up if it has one/not burned out.

OPT7 FluxBeam x Very nice beam pattern and they're really bright. But on my 04 Baja, I have horrible interference. Most cars doesn't experience the interference to the level I do, so I've been told. But whatever. I Bluetooth.

First and foremost. If your headlight lens are cloudy or hazy. You need to clean them first. Because that will reduce your light put put significantly. Secondly. I've found that aftermarkets systems, HID or LED, tend to be cheaply made and/or installed poorly. I've see the ballast for the HID sheet metal screwed to the radiator support and it just looks dumb and the ballast is loose. Same thing applies to LED. LED you need to be care and shop around for the right ones. Because LED suffer from patchy light and typically cheap lights don't cover the read with light. It's a patch here and there. Which is not good. The other thing is that they can (depending on a lot of things) interfere with your radio. You'll loose signal, or hear more static. The upside is in theory, LEDs should last longer then HIDs. HID are similar to halogen, where you cannot touch the bulb when installing or the lifespan is significantly reduced. They also don't suffer from he commonly patchy issues. But HID are a poor choice for the High beam bulbs because HID bulbs are similar to fluorescent bulbs in your house. They take up to 30 seconds to reach their full potential. Which for Hugh beams isn't ideal. I upgraded the lights on my 04 Baja with some OPT7 LED bulbs are have to say I'm happy with them. Though I experience radio interference pretty bad. But I just stream music so I don't mind. They're super bright when adjusted properly and I love them. Key thing to keep in mind is that the lens in your car are designed to reflect the light based on the assumption that a halogen bulb is in there. So changing out the style of bulb is always a risk of the light not reflecting properly out of the socket.

Even if it is valve covers gaskets that's dripping on the exhaust, each bank can be done in an hour if you know what your doing. Did them on my car Baja turbo, and my buddy 03 WRX. Definitely not 2,000$ worth. And I work in Cromwell CT. Which is pretty pricey town. And no way would that be a 2,000$ job to do. But then again. If it's the head gaskets leaking oil. That's a completely different story. But I don't see how they can't find the source of the leak. That's BS. You shouldn't need to spend 2000$ on exploratory surgery on your car.

Support for transmission is different from manual and auto.

So the AWD light has been on for two years then...?

Tire balance is likely the cause. I'd start with that. It's fairly cheap to have it done anyways. Could be axles or anything drivetrain related. But typically it's a balance issue.

The failure is due to the huge HP for a transmission that wasn't designed well enough for it. So putting it in a lower HP engine would probably help. Usually they have a hard time going into lock up. Or 3rd or 4th gear fail. Unless that tyranny's been rebuilt recently, I wouldn't touch it. 100k is around the fail point for those transmissions unless equipped with an auxiliary cooler or flushed have been done every 30k. Either way. With the gear ratios in the SVX in addition to the final drive ratio, a 2.2 engine would feel rather sluggish and be working really hard to move the car. Even with a 2.5, the svx transmissions have a really tall gear ratios to allow the rpms to be lower and take advantage of the 235 HP of the 3.3.

Interesting... I just read that post wtdash. I promise you the turbo I just bought was from a EJ255 in a 08 Legacy GT. Weird. Of well. The exact turbo doesn't matter unless you plan to rebuild one from the car you buy

I just got a TD04 from a buddy out of a 08 Legacy GT. it has a different flange then the one on my 04 Baja. But at least this one I got from the legacy id a TD04