golucky66

If someone out non Subaru conditioner in the vehicle. And used a different form of stop leak, be very very mindful and keep a close on on your heater core. That and the radiator will collect most of that stop leak and cause over heating issue, lack of heat etc. Not saying they're going to fail right now. But stop leak is never a fix,and only a temporary band-aid.

Technically...Technically...if you get any fluid on the belt at all, even during installation, and for like...1 second. The belt is technically supposed to be replaced as the chemistry of all cars fluids will eat away at the belts and weaken them. So yeah... You should replace it.

It's not a "dealership" thing. Any shop that actually spends the money to keep up to date TPMS tools can investigate the light. Though I'd imagine the dealership should be able to. Before you spend the money bringing the car to the shop, get a tire pressure gauge and set your tire pressures according to the sticker in your drivers door. This way YOU can verify the light isnt coming on due to low pressure (which is very possible in these 10 degrees or less nights.

When you being it to the shop with the light on, he can pull DTCs from the TPMS module. In which case that would inform him as to why the light keeps coming on. Rarely the module is actually bad, but it is a possibility.

Looked at parts.subaru and it fits some an legacy back to 91'

I have the ring gear and it's assembly (spider gears) from a 2006 Legacy 5MT. I know it's a MUCH newer car... But subaru re-purposes parts a lot... It's a 2.5L non-turbo..... Probably won't work but throwing it out there!

What kind of car? Sounds like a bad heater core to me. No heat when at idle because there is a restriction in the heater core and the water pump isn't spinning fast enough to push enough hot coolant through it. And over heating when cruising because there's not enough hot coolant getting down to the t-stat and it's not opening properly. You could try a oem or oem style t-stat but I doubt it would fix it.

What you're experiencing is perfectly normal. Most of the newer Subarus have CVT transmissions and it sounds like yours does too. So there isn't any gears. The engine just changes rpm depending on load and how much gas you're giving it. If you're interested id suggest reading up on CVT. But what your car is doing is perfectly normal for a CVT transmission

Either get a used oem one from like a junk yard. Or trt to find a remanned oem one. They're out here. A Lot of people have had issues with aftermarket ones. But I wouldn't spend 300$ on axles. Also, provided you can afford it. I would just replace both front axles. Especially if you get a new or remanned.the new axle will put a lot more stress on the old axle and it will wear out sooner then you think.

According to wikipedia 2011+ North American Subaru Forester 2012+ North American Subaru Legacy FB25 comes in both outback and forester standard, With optional EZ36D in the outback. It's the current 6 cylinder. The early engines had ring issues and sometimes short block issues. Most of the MAJOR consumption issues were fixed by 2014 or so.

Outbacks got the FB25 in 2012 and foresters in 2011. The early years of this engine Do have consumption issues. Sometimes very bad. The HG issue on the FB25 engines appear to be minimal. But those engines are still a little too new to tell the long term reliability. The HG issue was still present on EJ25 all the way until the stopped making it. But it got better and less common with every revision. The 2016 and 2017's are really nice though tbh. Either buy new or buy a car pre 2012 to avoid the early gen FB engine with consumption issues.

That's really weird that it has that. Unless that manual transmission has been swapped in. But realistically it shouldn't do anything because the front to back power it co trolled by a fluid that just get hot or cold... You should have both jobs done together because the driveshaft has to be pulled in order to replace the clutch. So you'd save on labor a little. In my area (fairly expensive area) It's probably 700-800$ to do the clutch. And probably only 50$ more to do the u joint. Why does it need a clutch anyways? Does it not fully engage/disengage? Is it slipping? But. If it does actually need a clutch I would strongly suggest fixing it. Unless you plan to get rid of the car soon.

Wait a second... If your car has a clutch, It's therefore a manual. And manuals don't have a fwd fuse because the front to rear power shift is done with a viscous cuffler not a clutch pack like on the autos. So if it DOES have a fwd fuse and it is a manual. It ain't going to do anything.

So the FWD fuse won't really... Help with the clutch issue. U-joints for sure. But if it needs a clutch, it needs a clutch.

If it was just the u joint, sure thatd be fine. But if there's an issue with the tranny. Putting in the FWD fuse isn't going to change a tranny issue. (unless its related to the tail of the tranny)

Idk about that engine. But on the 2.5's in 2000's subarus the sensor in the middle of the engine on the crossover pipe. Sorry if that doesn't apply in your case.

Fans being on is due to an issue with the temp sensor. Ecm puts fans on full to protect engine from overheating because it has no idea what temperature the engine is at

^^^ agreed. almost positive that's an O2 plug.

So, first of all, if it is actually a NEW Subaru (2016/2017) or even like 2013 and up. They are all CVT transmissions. So throwing it in "low" doesn't really put it in a lower gear. All it really does is tells the TCM (or PCM, not sure if they have a TCM still) that the driver wants it in low. It's up to the TCM and it's software to manually changes the gear ratio in the CVT transmission. So if it's not programmed in to be used at moderate speeds on hill descends, It's not going to do a damn thing to help you. It's not like a traditional transmission where putting it in a lower gear (sorta) physically changes the gear it's it. The thing about CVTs is they're all run off of variable gear ratios. Anywhere from like a 4.5 to 1 up to like a .65 to 1. And literally anywhere inbetween. Even on cars or other subarus that have the paddle shifters in an "automatic" transmission. Upshifting and downshifting doesn't really change the gear of the transmission from 2 to 3rd. The engineers program in shift points and specific gear ratios that are around what you 1st through 5th gears would be. So when you up or down shift. All that's happening is the variable clutches that are in the transmission that the drive chain rides in, get bigger or smaller to a pre programmed ratio to give the driver a sense of a lower gear. As for your issue. Realistically, the brakes are designed for very extreme driving patterns and road conditions. They should have no issue at all even down a steep hill. You should not experience brake fade, brake pulsations, or any other issues you can think of. (besides a slight smell in extreme situations where the rotors got so hot you can smell them) In which case,of you are still worried about your brakes experiencing issues and causing you concerns about your safety. You can put "performance/heavy duty" rotors on your car that will help disapate the heat that is generated much much better then stock ones. And if you don't want to do that or are still concerned, unfortunately you might need to buy the upgraded model (stupid I know) as another member brought up. Or buy a different car. One last thing you could try. Because the "low" position is completely controlled by the TCM (or PCM) there might be an update to it that the dealer can perform that MIGHT give it that feature. Sometimes when the car leaves the factory it has one software version. But the manufacturer decides something needs to changes from the build date to the present date. I wish you the best of luck. And hopefully something will give you peace of mind driving down that crazy hill.

Depends what car and year etc. I recently bought the bushings for a 96 impreza MT. New

Imo, sounds like when they replaced the air bag they left something unplugged or damaged something.

Not all tires are created equal. New tires don't mean anything if they we're 40$ each. I have a set of Cooper CS5's on my impreza and it's easily driven through snow that's above the hood. But, the newer subarus have more and more traction control every model. The the newer you go the better your ability to go up very slippery terrain. The Forester should have a higher ground clearance then the outbacks. But maybe they changed that with the more recent models.

The fan(s) will turn on when the A/C is on. Or the defrost is on because that turns on the A/C. If you are sure the A/C switch is off and the defrost is off, check the A/C compressor clutch to see if it's engaged. It is possible a switch is bad in your HVAC system that is keeping the A/C on and therefore the fans

Hahaha. I have the same issue. My girlfriend does the same stuff. I just wait in the car until she gets out. She always used to ask "why do you wait so long to get out of the car?" I don't have an answer unfortunately. Just chiming in to show my support that you're not along. Lol

Typicality, It's an issue with 4th gear and lock up. Some combination of that is the most common issue that you'll see.