golucky66

I just used the original springs. At least in my impreza, if i upgraded the spring it would be to stiff. Even with the dampaning all the way down the car didn't weight enough to compress a stiffer springs. So unless you're looking to rally your car, just use the stock springs.

Is there any fluid in the boot that covers the inner tie rods? Sometimes those seals leak and allow fluid to get into the boot.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1993,legacy,2.2l+h4+turbocharged,1269693,suspension,strut,7584 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502764&cc=1269693&jsn=351 Here's a link to KYB's adjustable struts. They're ~ $105 each. I have them on my impreza and I love them. They're probably the best you're going to get for an "upgrade" without doing coil-overs. You can adjust them up (stiffer) or down (softer) based on drivers desire and road conditions. They're fairly easy to adjust. I've had them in my impreza for a year now and they still adjust with ease and ride great (I like the stiffer ride they can provide) If you want to just replace them, just get the "stock" KYB also listed on that first link. In which case, only ~ $60 each. I would never put a non KYB strut on any of my subaru's unless I absolutely had to. And I know for a fact a lot of other members would agree (minus the old school stuff that you can't get KYB's for... front end of my brat )

Except for SVX's. Those you have to bleed the main bleeder on the ABS module, then the secondary. THEN all the wheels Lol. Learned that one the hard way.

Yeah, It's just a snap ring in the diff. It'll pop right out.

Yes. Depends on if it's a turbo with or without the leather package. Or the sport model. Turbo non leather had a gray 5 spoke rim. And the leather package had 6 spoke rim. I believe only the non turbo had a silver option though

Most likely an ignition coil. Especially if it only happens under load, the coil is getting weak.

Always start with an running issues first before dealing with emissions related codes. As CNY_Dave said. It could easily throw a P0420 code due to a misfire

I will admit I haven't dealt with a 2016 or 2017 forester myself yet. But i have dealt with a 2015 model and have done a fair bit of reading on Subaru in general. The timing chain that are now on these engines help keep the service costs down for sure. Usually timing chain's don't have issues for well over 300k miles which is certainly a plus. The oil consumption issue has been on going (from what I've read) since they introduced the new generation engine in 2011/2012 (Engine code FB25) with the early models having serious issues causing the lawsuit many have heard about. I believe that Subaru has been making on going changes addressing the oil consumption issue with every newer modeled engine put out. And while i agree 2 qts of oil in 3k miles on a brand new car is just not right, boxer engines are going to consume oil. It's just the way they are built. If the rear hatch does open on It's own (which I've only heard a very very small about of issues with it) that should be addressed immediately under warranty. Fuel gauge, i personally haven't heard about this one, but that doesn't mean there aren't a few people out there with that issue. In general, Foresters have very good vehicles for someone who wants an SUV type vehicle without carrying around the 4,500 pounds of metal. They have a good amount if head room, and leg room with seats adjusted properly. Most of the cars with the new engine in them aren't old enough to truly tell how they hold up with 200k miles on them. And same goes for 2012-2017 forester's etc. But id hope that being a Subaru, they've designed another car and engine that can go 300k miles without thinking twice. To address the little issues you're worried about. Again its hard to tell the little "stupid" issues that go wrong with cars. Like fuel gauge issues, rattles, squeak's, etc due to the fact that most of these cars don't even have 100k of them yet. Either way, most issues you seem worried about should and would be covered under warranty. Just need to find a dealer who will take care of you and now steal your money. If you want a new car(2017), and want the AWD, Plus leg, head, and cargo room as well as an SUV feel. I'm sure a 2017 Forester would do you just fine. Best of luck to you with whatever you decide to buy. And hopefully some other members can weigh in and give you some more advice.

My shop only uses right stuff. It's much more idiot proof then regular RTV to be honest. Plus its nice because you slap it on your oil pan, tighten the bolts up. And immediately fill it with oil and drive it. No waiting an hour or more like traditional RTV I've used it dozens of times on many different jobs. And it lasts a long time imo

Imo, they are very reliable. Usually don't have HG issue. At least not as common as the 2.5. It's such a big engine for the engine bay.

What year forester are you looking at? Or are you also looking for advice on what year range?

If vibrations goes away and comes back depending on load, it's drivetrain related. Most likely a bad u-joint. If it's not a u-joint, it would be axle(s)

I had a buddy who wanted to do the same thing. So he ended up putting a 3.3L from a SVX in it. Apparently he only had to modify the upper radiator bracket and change the radiator with an aftermarket one. But that engine produces 240 HP. More then anything you're going to get unless you put a WRX engine in it.

If you keep moderate pressure (not enough to actually press it to the floor) on the clutch pedal and it sinks to the floor then you need a clutch master cylinder. Might explain why the pedal keeps getting lower and lower as you drive.

Two bolts in the upper left and right corners (one on each side). Two nuts in the lower left and right bottom (again, one on each side). And (assuming it's an automatic) there are 4 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate that you need to remove before the trans will disconnect. If it's a manual, you're good to go with just the two bolts and 2 nuts.

The heater core is a very small radiator, with smaller tubes. So if you haven't ever done (or rarely) do coolant flushes. Or the coolant just has a high or low pH value, the heater core will corrode from the inside and plug itself.

If the water pump and timing belt job was done fairly recently, agreed with above posters it may just be air in the system. These can be very tricky to purge the air out as the heater core is the highest point of the cooling system. Though, if the work wasn't recently done I've run into an overheating issue (very very similar to the symptoms you've described) In my cases (it happened on two different subarus) it turned out being a restricted heater core. What happens is because the heater core is the by pass for the cooling system (by that I mean it's the only way coolant can circulate if the thermostat is closed) if the heater core comes partially restricted when the car is at low RPMs the water pump isn't spinning fast enough to pull enough warm coolant through the heater core. And then what happens is the thermostat will close because the lack of warm coolant coming from the heater core. When the thermostat closes exactly what your describing will happen. The temperature will rising up. And then if you floor it (or really just need to have higher RPMs) the temp will return to normal because the thermostat is now opening when floored. Few ways to tell if the heater core is partially restricted. 1) Ideally, if you had a male to male hose adapter. Disconnect the heater core from the system completely. If it fixes your issue. There you go. 2) Disconnect on of the hoses from the heater core, (preferably when the coolant is warm) and blow (physically like with your mouth) through the core. It should have very minimal resistance blowing through it. Make sure you have the know-hows to properly purge the air from the system before doing these tests though If you have access to a scan tool. Monitor the coolant temperature when driving. If after driving for a bit the temperature suddenly skyrockets like 15 degrees in 4-5 seconds, your thermostat is closing. That's the only way the coolant temp can rise that quickly. You can also see if keeping the car in 2nd or 3rd helps. For example, keep the RPMs in the 4k range. This might help prevent the thermostat from closing. As for the bubbling of the coolant. I agree, bubbling does usually mean HGs, but first of all this car isn't known for internal HG failures. Just oil seeps. And also, bubbling in the reservoir is hard to tell. I had "bubbling" of coolant on one of the cars I worked on with the bad heater core. It kept burping air from the system. I could never seem to get all the air out of the system when it had a bad heater core. I've done it dozens of times before but there would always be small bubbling coming out when purging the air. (And for the record, it was not a HG issue because I had just replaced the HG. The HG actually failed because the heater core plugged up, over heated the car a little and blew the HGs externally)

Valve cover gaskets usually don't have many options available unfortunately. Imo. You can never go wrong with Fel-Pro gaskets. But they usually cost more then others. The only other one I can think of off the top of my head that I use regularly is Ishino.

You won't need to disconnect anything. The transmission will bump against the frame before you snap anything. I know for a fact NAPA (at least here in CT) have NGK wires. Also, if you replace spark plugs. Only use NGK as well. The seals around the tubes are part of a value cover gasket.

I've never pulled the covers by alternating the mount bolts just because for me (not a DIY mechanic) it's an extra step. I'm sure you can get it out by alternating the nut removal, but as it can be difficult to get the covers out with both mounts loose, I can't give you any personal experience. It's a very straight forward project. Jacking up the engine isn't as scary as you might think. I would replace the plugs when you have the covers off. As grossgary said, it's much easier when they're off. IMO I would do the wires as well because they have been in oil. You can easily do wires with the covers on, so if you don't want to because they look fine and/or you're on a budget, you can do it later. Also, if you do the job, remove the air filter housing and unbolt the battery holder (don't disconnect the battery, it's not necessary) I personally do this because you get a lot more room, because when you do this you'll realize the covers can be a pain in the butt to remove. Sometimes you need to walk away for 20 minutes then come back.

Basically if you don't jack up the engine there is basically no way in hell you're getting those covers out. Also, if you're worried about the oil pan possibly getting the slightest of dent like some people seem to worry... You can get an engine hoist or a come a long and pull the engine up that way. I've done dozens of them and using a floor jack is easy and doesn't hurt the pan.

So easiest way to do valve covers on these newer engines is to remove the engine mount nut. There are two of them (one for drivers side mount and one for passenger side) once you remove those, you can put a floor jack under the oil pan (make SURE to put a piece of wood in between he pan and the jack) and jack up the engine. This will allow you to have enough room to rock the engine and remove the covers. Side note, if you're having a hard time getting the engine to properly fall back into sub frame (because there studs on the mounts often time don't like to re-line up on their own. Remove the wish bone and that will allow you to rock the engine with ease)

Yeah. If no button on the wheel work, the Air Bag light is now of AFTER the work was done (and also not on before) it is very very possible. If they turned the wheel a little bit and didnt realize what revolution was the centered one... And then bolted the wheel up to the rack, they might of damaged it. So if your air bag light is now of after the work. Cruise now suddenly doesn't work. Yeah. Take it back and have them look into it.

That's because there really isn't any HG issue to be honest. It's very very common for these engine to seep oil from head gasket's in as little as 75k on them and they many not fail for another 150k miles. So to 99% of mechanics who understand Subaru's, the HG leak just means they weren't done in the last 50k. Should they of told you it was seeping? Yes. But that would "scare" you away (or at least many uneducated people) because the second someone hears "seeping" or "leak" they worry that its going to fail. When in this case. It won't. As for the valve cover leak, I don't know why they didn't tell you. Maybe when they did their inspection and pulled a spark plug, the one they pulled didn't have oil in it. So they didn't lie to you. They literally didn't know.