golucky66
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Everything posted by golucky66
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Yeah, need the flywheel bolts. Need to make sure you have the metal clips that hold the throw out bearing on the lever. Because you need to pass emissions (and possible inspection depending on state) so you need an ECU and possible the TCM. Otherwise you'll have a check engine light. Yeah you need the crossmembers because they are different. The axles should be the same. But I would double check just incase. And yeah the interior is purely if you want it to look stock. If so, you need to find those parts from a forester otherwise they won't match and line up correctly. -
Did you/can you compare the new parking brake shoes? I saw that you compared the rotors but maybe its an issue with the shoes. You shouldn't have to drive the car and wear them in so they don't drag. If the rotor can't spin/spin fairly easily, something's wrong. If you compare them and they look the same (left wheel verse right wheel) there's probably another issue you might be missing. If they look different, return them and get a new set. Then check those before you leave the store. If the adjuster is all the way down, and you looked at the adjuster on the lever and both are adjusted down, its probably either the pad isn't sitting correctly for some reason. (but considering you've redone the job already and came up with a similar issue). It's probably an issue with the shoe.
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Common issues that would cause this A) Frozen or stuck caliper pins B ) Pads don't have proper clearance in the metal clips because there is rust under the clips and/or the clips are old/rusted. Less common A) Caliper piston is bad and not allowing the piston to move freely and causing it to stay pushed out even when there is minimal hydraulic pressure. Rare but possible A) Brake hose has a kink or due to excess moisture in the brake fluid it could be rusting from the inside and causing pressure to not be relieved as quickly as it should at that wheel.
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I would disconnect it just to be safe if you have the time and means to. Otherwise. Agreed with 1 Lucky Texan
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I mean... Leaking oil into the plugs really won't cause engine damage. Just a misfire once it gets bad enough. Then you'd have to limp it to a shop. Really it comes down to, how bad is it leaking? And if not too bad, would you rather have the convenience of getting it fixed when you're schedule is free, or when it's broken down and has to get limped to the shop? Not saying you need to go a certain way, just stating options.
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- 2004 Forester
- leaky head gaskets
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HG is likely to be seeping oil. Probably fine for a good amount of mileage. Valve cover gasket. Also likely because it's a pretty common leak. And battery, you could probably hold off especially being in NC...
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1) Agreed with AdventureSubaru, that engine almost always has an oil leak from the HG. Long as it doesn't overheat and no coolant coming out. You're fine 2) Yeah. That's a bad valve cover gasket... Do you need to replace the spark plugs with the gasket? Not unless there's been so much oil sitting on the plugs that the oil has slowly seeped into the plugs. 3) Battery is testing low. But that's relative to how it's being tested. The "Right" way to test a battery is to put a "toaster" on it and physically load test it. Most of the electronic testers do an ok job of it. But aren't always accurate. If you don't want to pay them the $100-150 for the battery. Buy one from napa and put it in yourself for $60
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Make sure the shaft is lubed just a little so the seal doesn't roll. Make sure you don't push it in too far. And make sure it goes in flat and not crooked. Otherwise. I'm sure something minor happened. Just redo it and im sure you'll be fine
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I personally would rather remove a transmission. But then again that's because I've done that a dozen times. Whereas removing an engine, probably once.
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When the ECU detected a knock or isn't getting a signal from the knock sensor it retards the timing a bit and adds more fuel to the engine to keep it cooler to prevent a cylinder from overheating. So yes. A knock sensor code will definitely drop the fuel economy by 3 mpg
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Glad it's fixed for fairly cheap!
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Does anyone have a list or rough idea of what years and models come factory with an LSD diff? I know all SVX's come with an LSD but what other models and years?
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Then it's probably in the front diff unfortunately, if it goes away when the wheels aren't turning. As some other posters said above.
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Does it make the noise when you're powerbrake it? Like... Drive gear with foot on break and rev the rpms a little? Or ONLY when the wheels are turning. Also try reverse to see if a different angle load changes it.
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Also, if the light goes off when you shut the car off, make SURE wen you pull the car into the garage you leave it running so the computer doesn't lose that code. Otherwise they'll tell you that you need to come back when the light is on.
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So if it is electric, (i don't know off the top of my head) then any number of things could cause the computer to disable the assist. Say for example if the steering angle sensor isn't working properly, the computer might disable the assist as a preventative thing for it's own safety and yours. When the light comes on and therefore the steering assist is disable, you should get the code read from a garage that can get into the steering module. From there you can determine your next step.
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That is a horrible sound. I cringed hearing it... Definitely sounds drive train related. Check the front diff fluid, the trans fluid, inspect all axles to make sure they're not broken. Check drive shaft for play (though it does sound like it's coming from the trans/front diff) always good to start with the basics.
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Good luck! Just remember to not use ceramic pads on a vehicle that isn't supposed to have ceramic pads. Semi-matalic pads help remove heat from from the rotor, and if the vehicle wasn't designed for ceramic, that can very easily cause the overheating issue and warpage. Not a lot of people realize that. Ceramic pads are put on high end cars because they don't experience brake fade like semi-matalic's do
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When I say frozen, usually if anything is frozen or binding it's the caliper slide pins. They get semi suck or frozen completely and as Rooster2 said, can cause the pad not to retract from the rotor and causes them to overheat etc. Also, the caliper piston can get frozen (though much less likely) As for rotors, i don't have a brand I can recommend. But as for slotted and or drilled. They really aren't necessary unless you drive the car hard/race it. If you're constantly using the brake like every 5 second then yeah, maybe performance rotors. So, as far as performance rotors. Watching some videos of experts talk about performance rotors. If that's the route you choose to go. Directional provide the best heat dissipation and overall will do you the best. Second best for heat dissipation is slotted. As they allow a slight path or air to get in between the pad and rotor when it's spinning. And in terms of heat dissipation, drilled are the worst. And don't provider anything for heat (well, very minor) In fact they actually reduce stopping power (as you have a reduced surface area between the rotor and pad. The main reason racers use drilled is because they allow water to get off the rotor super quick and allow the rotor to go back to metal to pad instead of water being a barrier in there. So unless you are planing on driving through huge puddles that would get the rotors soaked, drilled are pointless and you're better off seeking directional and slotted.
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^ +1 Check out the front brakes and make sure everything is moving freely and nothing is frozen. But yeah rotors are most likely the issue.
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Completely understand where you're coming from. A car drivin hard needs more care then a Grannie car. Can it go to 200k? Maybe. All about what you wanna do. Worst case is it blows, you don't realize your coolant temp skyrocketed and you warp your heads. Best case, you blow the gasket, you shut the car off before it over heats, and limp it home/to a shop but then it needs to be repaired then and there, not at your convenience. Get what I'm saying?
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Yeah, the bushing tend to wear out over time and miles and the diameter of the hole gets better then the sway bar and so when you hit a bump the bar gets forced up and hits the bushing because it's not a tight fit anymore. Having play in the bushing does have an effect on handing of the car, but it effects the car more in a racing world then a daily driver world. They will just causing a clunking in the front end when you hit a bump.
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Not saying you can't or shouldn't replace your HG as maintenance but the oil in the plug hole is almost always from the valve cover. I've seen it a dozen times on subarus. If that's you're only and immediate concern, then valve cover gasket will do. But then again, if you actually want to have the HG replaced, replace the valve cover gasket is part of the job. Just to give you a comparison. I recently replaced HG on a 09' OBW because after a long a slow oil leak from the heads it blew and was leaking coolant. The thing is, he had 225k mikes on the car, with the original HG. He did take very good car of his car and stayed on top of coolant flushes and oil changes. But just because a "traditional" life expectancy is 120k, doesnt mean you cant double that. The 120k number is on car that's had the oil changed every 10k miles and the coolant flushed maybe once before the 120k mark. Parts last longer the better you take car of them.
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I suppose there is a very small chance you could damage the ABS module. But it's very unlikely.
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Only thing in terms of ABS is getting air in the system, possibly setting a code or it not being able to function. But you'd know if there's air in the system as the brake pedal would be mushy but would get firm after a few pumps. But as soon as you let off the pedal you'd have to pump it again to get it solid.