golucky66

Did not know that about the DI engines. Good to know. Is with the newer CVT, more durable or not. It doesn't make sense to change the fluid every 100k? Maybe less frequently then 30k, but the whole "sealed for life" isn't possible if you want to go 200k or more on your car...?

Just want to throw this out there as information. Lets all note that the transmissions on 2011 ish up Subarus are all CVTs which take more abuse and are fragile compared to the 4EAT and 5EATs. Some people change there ATF on a traditional automatic transmission as often as 30k with some not at all. With the higher failure rate of CVTs, wouldn't it be a decent investment/preventative maintenance to change the CVT fluid more then when it blows up? Also, car manufactures aren't in the business of keeping cars going 200,000 miles. Sure Subaru prides them self on "97% of Subaru's made in the past 10 years are still on the road". But they don't make money from keeping them going that long, if anything they lose money in the short term. So why would they want you to change your CVT fluid when it should last the life of the vehicle (I.E. 150k miles) Especially when they have to compete to have low maintenance cost in order to sell cars and compete with Kia's and Hyundai's low initial cost? Secondly, WRXs 14+ (or right around 14') and 2018 models have Direct Injected engines. If any of you are up to date in the automotive world, direct injected engines have tones of issues with carbon build up. While this 17' Outback isn't a DI (that I can recall). A intake valve cleaning via chemicals isn't going to hurt the valves on a DI engine and again goes along with the CVT fluid exchange. Preventative maintenance. Whats 300 $ to do a BG direct injected fuel and intake service, when if the carbon does build up you either need to get to a shop with the equipment to walnut blast it, or spend thousands to disassemble the engine to de-carbon it.

Pretty sure your next step if you can't see it is to remove the intake manifold to get it out of either the intake or the heads.

According to Subaru, towing above 1500 lb I think requires trailer brakes. With a max towing capability of 2500 lbs. Can you tow 2500 lb without trailer brakes? Sure. Is it the safest and best option out there. No. If you do decide to tow on the regular with that car make sure to have the transmission fluid (it is a CVT transmission be aware) flushed or serviced every 20k (as per Subaru) due to excess heat and abuse on the transmission during towing.

Glad you found your car you've been missing. FYI those wheels are on backwards. lol Well, one of them is

The table on page 3 and 4 of the TSB is what vehicles, engines, etc that are covered. The first page is just a broad list of all vehicle affected for quick reference. Going to the table is when you verify if the vehicle is truly covered. So provided we're looking at the same revision. Only manual transmissions on the 2014 model are covered.

Overall it's fairly easy and similar to a NA. biggest thing I can say is be very careful of the air-fuel ratio sensor in the up pipe. At least on the legacy's it's stupidly close to the frame rail. Either remove it before the engine pull, or be very careful removing the engine. Easily can damage it.

Like 90% sure theres an option to disable it with a vehicle specific scan tool. So either subie specialist or dealer.

The XT (at least the 2.7 L) is actually worse. I think i read on here that you cant even get timing components for it anymore. :-(

Parts are limited and most are custom to the SVX. Engine is ONLY in the SVX. Transmissions let go on them all the time, and they take premium gas if I remember correct.

Imo, do not get an SVX as a daily unless it's less then like 10 miles. Too many potential issues such as transmission etc. If it's been manual swap it might be worth it. But over all they quirky cars and have there issues. And those issues are usually not small enough to justify using it as a daily.

I've bought one from worldpac (oem part) a year or so ago. I think it was like 10-15 dollars. Kind of expensive for such a small part. But in the grand scheme of things it's not much so you don't have to deal with a day or two at a junk yard.

I haven't read anywhere that mentions the ability to disable it. But then again, it's so new, there isn't much info on it yet. I will say that most manufacturers are opting to remove the disabling feature. the reason is the fact that start stop technology can drastically improve fuel efficiency. And with the federal regulation of corporate average fuel economy (CAFE), car manufacturers need to do literally everything they can to get the MPG up even .1 MPG. And allowing the start stop to be disables completely defeats the purpose it was put on the car in the first place. Not to say Subaru wont allow it, just giving a heads up that over the next 5 years (unless it gets repealed by the Trump administration) start stop wont be able to be disabled on 90% of cars, because the need to meat CAFE standards.

Just FYI. The 94 SVX should be factory filled with R-134. At least my 94 was. Also, I think I might still have the compressor kicking around somewhere

DTC P0519 - IDLE AIR CONTROL CIRCUIT SYSTEM PERFORMANCE A P0519 isn't for an O2 issue. It's for the idle air control issue. So either you listed the wrong code or the mechanic is headed down the wrong path.

Actually starlink doesn't cover XM radio (satellite radio) It does the call center for roadside and emergency. It also does some other minor stuff but that's the jist. XM is a separate company and has a separate subscription. As for what you'll lose. Nothing. Just the call center service

Looks almost like a pulley cause the belt to slip for an extended period of time, wearing out the bel a little early. Usually these newer belts last about 100k before they start showing signs of wear in the groves. But they typically don't break or shred for a while unless they were abused.

Yeah. That's crazy. MAYBE if the engine is soaked and it's a very small leak it might take a tech 2 hours to wash the entire engine and then inspect the system for a leak. But even on a WRX there's a few common places they can leak and most dealerships don't want to work on vehicles out of warranty because it's not "gravy work" and they can't make 100 hours while working 50. Either way. Find a independent subie shop and let them give you advice.

Well at least you fixed it!

Could you post a picture of what you're talking about. Normally they are connected together and can be removed as one piece. And as a word of advice. To replace low beams on newer legacy, you go in through the wheel well. Quite easy to do. Just annoying doing it on the ground

You can't get a screwdriver in there and wedge it out?

To go off of Carfreaks post. You can even look up 18 MY data from NHTSA and they do headlight analysis. And comparing even 2018 Crosstrek Halogen verse LED (both at the oem level) and the halogen travel further down the road then the Leds. LEDs have their advantage though. But only when designed around the bulb type.

You could always rent a Uhaul truck (and car trailer if you didn't want to drive the outback as well as the truck) and move that way. I don't know how much it'll cost. But then you have the box truck, plus your outback for space to pack stuff.

On the 18' Crosstrek Limited aren't the low and high beams LEDs?

Are you talking about rolling the mileage back from 30k to 20k on a vehicle?