golucky66

Touche, makes sense.

Fans were working. But oh well. It's fixed now! Agreed! Take care of your cooling system!

Then explain to me when this partially restricted core was causing it to over heat. Because we put in a new core and didn't see temperatures' anywhere near 205 degrees except under full load. Were as before 205 was low. We had the OEM t-stat in there because we didn't want to take any chances with any aftermarket because we've ran into issues before. Nothing was blocked except the heater core. I cleaned the crossover pipe due to all the gunk in there and flowed tons of water through there. And also checked both the heater core hoses. The heater core caused the over heating, and it was making It's own air pockets because both times after I filled the core up first with coolant to prevent air pockets, the system still go air in the core. Both times I removed the hoses after I had the temperature around 238 degrees, the core had about 4 Oz of coolant in it. Now, with the new core, I do not have that issue.

Timing sounds off Imo. A cat wouldn't suddenly get clogged after doing a timing belt job.

LF is most likely to wear the fastest, therefore it will catch up to the other three quicker.

On wet pavement or dirty take of quickly to see if the awd is working or if there is no power going to the rear wheels.

Agreed that a lot of people use the conditioner. I can't give you a 100% definite answer because well, frankly, people lie. But this customer has been with us probably 10ish years, doesn't do any work himself, we see him every 3.6k miles for an oil changes and do every little job and every big job he needs. So I doubt he did add anything. Plus... why would someone add a stop leak to their cars system when their HG isn't even seeping oil yet (pre 100k miles on his car) which wouldn't explain why not only did his header core clog around 90k and the radiator at around 80k... Which led us to believe that it was the conditioner we used, especially apparently according to my manager (who's been there for 12 years) when his heater core clogged at 90k, it was like 200 miles after we put the conditioner in with the coolant flush... I would LOVE some lab results or something because this is a really weird thing and I worry a little about everyone else out there who swears by that stuff.

Hey everyone, I recently had a 09' OBW 2.5 SOHC in my shop that finally (after 225k miles on original HG) blew them to the point where coolant was pouring out of the car. A quick background on this car, the customer bought the car brand new from the dealer and immediately brought it to my shop (as we've worked on his cars for a long time) and as per warranty, we added coolant condition (the subaru OEM one) at the 30k service interval when we changed coolant. We did this in order to ensure there would be no doubt his engine would be under warranty. We again did a coolant flush and conditioner at 60k and then another at 90k as per service recommendations (this customer likes to stay on top of maintenance and take car of his car) Not soon afterwards, his heater core was completely clogged, to the point where you couldn't even blow through it. Luckily, he was under the BG protection plan and they covered all the charges for us to install the new heater core. Not to mention the radiator that had a lack of flow (original radiator) around 80k which BG also covered (thank god for the customer) Flash forward 110k miles to 225k on the clock after the OEM conditioner was used 3 times (my shop stopped using it after the heater core failed because we were done with that BS) Car comes in after finally blowing HGs. I remove the heads to see obvious locations where coolant was blowing by the gasket. But also, when I removed the heads there were hard thin layers of what literally felt and looked like a potato chip (except it was white) It was ALL over the coolant ports on the block and head. I spent probably a good 30-45 minutes removing as much as I could, the parts that were stuck to the block I could scrap up with a pocket screwdriver but it certainly wasn't easy. The only reason I actually did this was because every one of the ports on the block and heads were restricted by probably, 20% due to the condition (which has a very nontraditional type of stop leak in it) So, cleaned all of that up, reinstalled heads with new gaskets. And, well I still had an over heating issue. Long story short(ish) The heater core was partially restricted when it came into the shop for the HG job (and I didn't catch it because it still flowed plenty of water through it when I put a garden hose up to it, but the second you blew into it and compared it to a new core, it was like blowing through a 1/4" straw verse a 1" straw. What was happening was because of where the port for the heater core is (on the side of the water pump, right behind the thermostat) when the heater core wasn't allowing enough coolant through it as the water pump needed, the water pump started frothing the coolant at the pump, and because the heater core is the highest spot on this system, the air bubbles would slowly work their way up to the core, combine with other little bubbles from the frothing and then turn into huge air pockets. Once there were these huge air pockets in the core, they would occasionally get sucked down to the water pump and slam the t-stat closed (because steam can not open a t-stat, only liquid) Replaced the heater core, after the HG were initially replaced and car runs perfect now. TL;DR Be very, very cautious when using ANY stop leak/conditioner with stop leak in it. Even the OEM specific one. I'm not saying it couldn't prolong your HG failure, but if using it on a regular basic or IMO more then once, you're asking for trouble with your radiator and heater core. I can post pictures of a fraction of the debris I removed from the block sometime in the near future.

I just recently got my Brat running again with 2.5 year old gas. (and I didn't let the carb run dry either when I parked it) Ran a little rough for the first 5 minutes. After that, ran fine. Agreed with some above posters, be careful with the brakes until you are sure of their capabilities.

Glad it helped. If you run into that low idle issue again, try the procedure again but let the fans come on (don't force it). But, seeing as it helped! Glad your car is back to normal! No body likes a broken car that nobody knows how to fix.

Ok, here is a link that I hope works. To get the idle to learn properly, make sure you follow each step carefully. Even the ones that seem pointless/common sense. https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmalRfJxLmkYhahKi_RtsvSBaGF44g

Heres a link of my sheet on how to teach the ECM to relearn the idle. ​The link isn't working, I'll post it when I get home.

I ran into this issue on a 07 forester (i think it was an 07) when i cleared the codes with my shops scan tool it messed up the idle (also may happen when you disconnect the battery for a long period of time and the ECM loses all of it's juice). We tried everything to fix it, because while the computer does control it, if it loses it's memory it can't fix it by itself. I don't know the procedure (it's a really weird procedure and we couldn't find it anywhere except on iATN fourms) If you don't get it fixed by Monday I'll bring the sheet home and take a picture and post it here. Once I did that it idled perfectly. Before I did it would idle @ 500 rpms and if i turned the A/C on it would nearly die from the load. I agree with what you're saying, but it wouldn't really make sense for it to suddenly not idle after the HG was replaced.

Just went through emissions with my 94 SVX. Tail pipe emissions with the CEL one code of which was Left O2 Sensor issue. Connecticut emissions fyi So, CEL doesn't matter if they gotta use the sniffer?

Well, if the ECM/TCM thinks there's a gearing issue then it might not let it shift in attempt to prevent further "damage". There is a sensor on the tranny for temp. I'm not sure if an 04 had a higher shift pattern until warm (and by higher I mean like, won't go into 4th until warmed up, or shifts 500 rpms higher. Not won't shift at all) So if you let the car idle until fully warm, it would then shift properly through all the gears? So it only does this weird "won't shift out of 1st" when cold?

I have never heard of something like this so I decided to look up the service procedure for the P0731. Maybe that'll help a little bit? It is certainly a weird issue.

Well, if your car has the new engine (FB25) it requires 0w20, which is synthetic. If it's still the EJ series non synthetic is perfectly fine.

My dads 99 Outback had the same problem but it would get stuck on the floor. Turned out that it had a leaking master cylinder. So all the pressure on the slave side would leak around the bladder and not have enough pressure to push the pedal back up. We got it to act up by very slowly and gently, pushing the clutch pedal down (while the car was running) and it actually got sucked down a bit of the way, and if I kept pushing it very slowly, the slave wouldn't even move. On the bright side, there's only like 3 main components of the hydraulic clutch system.

I recently pick up a 94 SVX, and in the process of bring it back to life (Needs to TLC) I am looking at tires either before winter or for next summer (This car isn't going to be driven in the winter as it has ZERO rust on it! ) Was wondering if anyone has run wider tires then stock without issues. I'd love to get the widest tires I can without any rubbing or with very very minimal. Keeping the 16 in rims. Also I want to keep the alignment within factory specs, so no adjusting camber to help. Thanks!

Wow. Learned something new everyday

Subnz, if you went through all that trouble to do a flush without a machine. Props to you man. That's incredible. Flushs can be a pain to do in general, and you did it without a proper machine. Nice...

First, is it a drain and fill. Or an actual flush? When a shop does a true "flush" and not a drain and fill, they typically use 50-100% more fluid then the system takes in order to take the brown or black fluid and make it a nice red again (assuming non-CVT). While most dealers and shops will only do a drain and fill, a flush is the only real way to truly replace all the fluid. Even doing the trick I've heard around this site about drain and fill 3 time (driving it in between each fill) you still are consistently mixing old fluid with new fluid. As a very basic example, 0% fluid (currently in tranny) now drained (usually only drain about 1/3 of the systems capacity. 0*.66+100*.33= 33% new fluid. Then 33*.66+100*.33= 54.78% new fluid. And after the third time, 69.1548% of that fluid is new. That's a very crude example, but that's basically what's happening during a drain and fill (doing the cycle 3 times! Most shops I know only drain and fill once! What the hell good is 33% new fluid? The drain and fill option is usually what shops sell because it's cheaper and then they can say "you'r transmission fluid is new!". The flush is quite a bit more money (as you are paying for more labor, and more fluid. And thus is why many shops won't do a flush. It scares people away. As for the fluid question. Any fluid can be used long as it meets subaru spec for your car. Yes, genuine fluid is the "perfect" fit for your car, but they write specs for different fluids for a reason. Long as the ATF meets subarus spec. It's fine.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160065-1979-brush-guard-for-sale-400/ It's still there...

Rockauto has upper and lower gasket set. Crank bearings. Valve springs. Bunch of stuff. I'm really surprised no one mentioned it. No pistons though.

If you're looking for a high end electric impact, Mac Tools (Dewalt) sells one that does 1200 ft-lb break-away https://www.mactools.com/en-us/Power-Tools/Cordless-Tools/BWP151-M2/20V-MAX-1-2-Drive-High-Torque-Brushless-Impact-Wrench-Kit I use this exact one literally ever day. Love it. I've used it to take off tractor trailer tires. It works to take them off, but it gets them off. Our truck guys usually use a 1" gun on those.