golucky66

Just throwing this out there, the throttle body could be dirty. Had a very similar issue with my 96' Impreza. Ended up cleaning the throttle body off the car with a tooth brush and then a second time while the car was running with that throttle body cleaner. Ran much better after that, and the issues went away completely during the next drive cycle.

When you say squirrly, do you mean the steering wheel shakes? Or is the car hard to control? If you're traveling 60+ and hit the brakes the steering wheel shaking would indicate warped rotors. Other then that, a little better of a description of what the car is doing when you hit the brakes would allow everyone to help you better.

The ABS light probably comes on because when the fuse pops, something else that is powered through that fuse (ABS related) now lost power. Anyways, for tracking it down. It's hard to say without a reason. Can you think of what you're doing when the fuse pops? Did you hit a bump? Take a corner kind of hard? Or simply cruising on the highway.

So, someone else may know of a different reason. I've always believed that that nob is there so that if you ever get rear ended and the gas tank gets pushed forward, that bolt that's under there will not puncture the tank. So, it's a safety thing. It comes off by just prying with a pry bar (or screwdriver) it's very easy to get off. On, in my experience, isn't as fun.

While I don't always agree with saying that the dealer's know best, it is generally true. That's probably your best guess. My monies on a U-joint that's starting to fail, but as everyone else here, a guess. Good luck with it though,

Just so you know, I live here in NW corner of CT and I sold (4 years ago) a very clean well cared for 98' Outback (same engine) that had no HG issues for $1600. I was asking 2k for it. So agreed with a few posters, unfortunately, for a non-subaru person who can't work on the car themselves, it's a very hard sell because they won't be able to tell what else is wrong with it because they can't drive it. Unless the buyer is knowledgeable about cars, they will rarely buy a non derivable car. And for those who are, typically don't buy non running cars either(but are more likely to because they might be able to fix it themselves). The situation you're in it sounds like your ideal buyer is a forum member, or a random person who is very knowledgeable with subaru's. Where in NE are you located anyways?

Yeah, it's got low smiles because a little old lady owned it before me. When i bought it i went through it and fixed everything that was leaking and just damaged. I drive it about 3-4k miles a month. Last oil changed I did a BG MMO flush (shop stocked BG stuff as well) and no noticeable difference. Oh well

I run that oil because penzoil is what my shop stocks, and cheaper oil makes me happy. It's got 120k on it. I appreciate all the info guys.

Recently (<1k miles) replaced the PCV value (it was slightly gummed up not much, didn't help. Have not checked hoses, plan to. I run Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-platinum-full-synthetic-motor-oil/) with 5k changes, last time I did the oil change I used 5w40 because of how hard I drive, figured the slightly thicker oil when warm would help (it might have a little, nothing extraordinary). I typically add a qt of oil every 2-2.5k miles, so again, not complaining because that's not that bad, just trying to minimize.

So my 96 Impreza 2.2L consumes oil. Not an unhealthy amount considering how I drive (lead foot). I understand why these engines consume oil especially at higher rpms, but I was wondering if anyone has done any work to add stronger rings to help contain the oil better at high rpms. Did a little bit of research on rings etc, and from what I can tell, there's not much I can do on the EJ22 without boreing it out and getting bigger rings. Not the best with engine mods, and would like some advice. More of a "what are my options" then I'm certainly doing this.

Theres a 2006 Outback that comes into my shop, and typically I'm the one to work on it. His head gaskets have been seeping(externally) since around 160k. He currently has 230k on the clock and the seep is only slightly worse. We told him to keep driving it until he notices an overheating issue (or obvious issue when brought in the shop) because to do a HG job is a lot of money, at least for a good shop to do it right. A small seep isn't a concern. Just keep an eye on things and look at the leak to see if it's gotten worse every oil change.

I know I'm definitely out of the norm. But my first car, 97' outback with that engine. And it had head gaskets replaced at 200k for maintenance...they weren't even leaking nor was the car over heating... So that might be the 1 in a million car but, *shrug* also, that car had 300k on it when I sold it. Edit: maybe it was a 98' or 99' I don't know... All I know is it had that engine that is "prone" to head gasket failure.

I have a switch in my car (96' impreza) that does the exact same thing. I've turned FWD on while driving down the road at 40 mph. But mostly use it to have a bit more fun in the snow. Wouldn't worry too much about it... Unless you're switching it every 10 seconds for 50k.

Just got home from work today. Finished reinstalling the new OEM dealer clutch kit (with the reused OEM dealer flywheel) and the clutch doesn't slip anymore. There was a noticeable difference in the spring tension in the clutch plate and the spring in the clutch itself were much bigger. So, if anyone is doing a clutch on this era transmissions, be very cautious about using an aftermarket clutch, wouldn't want to have to redo the clutch 4 times like me Just as a side note, my manager contacted the parts distributor and they are going to be contacting Sach and informing them of this issue in hope for a redesign.

Just as a note to what Rooster2 said, in the new FD (FJ? idk what the new letters are) they are supposed to run 0w20 oil. Running ticker oil may cause increased consumption. According to Subaru they have reduced the recommended oil change interval from 7500 to 6000 (see here http://www.manchestersubaru.com/subaru-synthetic-oil.htm) I heard somewhere that on boxer engines, it is considered "normal" if you are not burning/consuming more then a qt per 1500 miles. Grant it your car has 26k on it. But i mean, oil consumption has been a problem on most EJ series engine just not as bad.

Thanks so much, I will look into this Thursday and post my findings!

I cleaned the shaft on the tranny well with whatever that sand paper is call (idk just really fine grit) as well as where the fly wheel sits on the engine side. Also when I assembled it the alignment tool pulled out with ease. I believe that it does.

Hi all, Recently had a 2006 subie Legacy 2.5 non-turbo come into the shop with a noise coming from the transmission. We looked at it, found that there was an issue internally and suggested the lady put in a used transmission. While I was doing the transmission I also did the driver's side motor mount (it was leaking bad) and a new flywheel and clutch kit (Sachs). But after I put it together and the lady picked it up she got towed back into the shop ~2-3 weeks later with a completely smoked clutch >500 miles on that clutch. Now, under warranty, I put in another clutch kit and another new flywheel after inspecting the master cylinder and the line plus reservoir. Everything worked flawlessly on the hydraulic system side. After I completed the clutch (now the 2nd time) I took it for a test drive ~5-7 miles and smelt clutch bad. As well as when traveling ~40 mph and checking the clutch with the old clutch in, rev it to 5k and drop the clutch to see how fast the rpm's snap back, the clutch was slipping bad. Again. Ok, ok, third time my manger (who ordered all the part from the beginning) called up the dealer, and asked which flywheel is supposed to go in this car. The parts guy said it was a single mass flywheel (which I had put in a dual mass because literally every listing my manger could find said it called for a dual mass). The parts guy from the dealership said the dual mass goes only in the turbo models... Hmm...ok On to the install of the third time, I again do all the work, put on the SINGLE mass fly wheel and me and my manager looked over the clutch + pressure plate and decided to reuse them as there were no noticeable issues with them and the fact that that clutch had 5 miles on it (my previous test drive). I finished the clutch and took it for the same test drive. The clutch is still slipping, maybe 20% better then the 2nd time. My manager called up the dealer, ordered the factory clutch kit and I'm going to be putting that, along with the factory fly wheel in on Thursday 3/3/16. TL;DR Installed a new (used) transmission with a new dual mass fly wheel + clutch kit. Clutch still slipped installed a new clutch kit and dual mass fly wheel a second time. Clutch still slipped. Installed the factory single mass fly wheel and reused the clutch kit from second install (had ~5 miles on it). Clutch still slips. Will be installing the same factory single mass fly wheel + the factory clutch kit on Thursday 3/3/16. Will the clutch suddenly not slip? My question is. Why is the clutch slipping so much? There is no excess pressure being applied by the master cylinder and we have the correct fly wheel in there now. And as a note, my shop uses Sachs clutch kits for a long time and very very rarely have issues. So is the OEM clutch kit going to magically make this not slip? What else is there that could cause this issue? Anyone have any ideas just for me to look over on Thursday?

While it is a lot more then on OP's original list, I completely agree. Do all the work once so you don't have to pull the engine 3 times in 3 years.

If you're looking to keep the car for a long time, you do both at once. There is no point in doing a timing belt now and in 10k doing the head gaskets because the job overlaps. And while they're in there to do a head gasket it'd be foulish not to put a new timing belt kit in (pulleys AND water pump) Do not skimp on the pulleys, tensioners, and water pump. It's an extra like 200$ and it will save you a headache of a water pump failing after 50k on the timing belt job If you don't plan on keeping the car. Just drive it. I mean, it may break it may not. But if you don't plan on keeping he car, why put 2k into it.

I typically use rock auto if I can wait the extra time for shipping. Bought 4 struts with mounts shipped to CT for like 350 with promo code. And those were the KYB's (which if you're getting struts for your subie. Get KYB's. if you do go that route, here is the link on this forum from rockauto for 5% off you're entire order http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157824-rockautocom-discount-code-expires-may-17-2016/

Just so it's known, my mothers car 2009 Tribeca H6 130k blah blah blah. Has a seriously oil leak coming from the timing chain area. I haven't done any work to it because of how much a PITA it is. So until it's leaking bad enough to be worried about running the car low. We're just going with it Just wanted to info the group that I've seen it on an H6.

No real opinion which way, I'd lean towards the swap. And the reason is that the 2.2 is literally indestructible. It's crazy. They run forever, have no issues. And overall are just really really solid engines.

So I was doing further research about this topic. And there are some less obvious thing that could be the issue. The few things that come to mind when a temperature is affecting pulsation is that the grease in the caliper slides and wheel bearing are thicker and may be causing the caliper to not be sliding correctly, or even the wheel bearing could be putting a slight amount of force and causing the rotor to pulsate. Try checking the wheel bearings in the front and the integrity of the front calipers. Also, how long ago were the brakes pads + rotors done? Here's a link to a quite helpful page (http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/10-of-your-top-brake-pulsation-questions/)

I have about a 1/4 dirt drive way. Same thing happens to me. I know it may sound a little like "how can that happen". But because it's getting warmer, the dirt/earth is really soft and muddy. So mud gets in your tread, the bead area, in the rim and all that mud throws off the balance of the tire. Grant it this normally would occur all the times not just while breaking.... When it shakes, does the steering wheel shake or your seat? if the wheel shakes, the vibration (if actually from breaks) is coming from the front end. If your seat, then usually the rear is the issue.