golucky66

I'm not sure what year they went away from speedo cables. But the 02 tyranny definitely has an electronic speed sensor. And if the 98 chassis has a speedo cable, you'll have to remove the electrical sensor out of the 02 transmission and tread in the actual cable. It does swap with no problems. Did that on a friend's 96 impreza with an 02 impreza 5 speed swap.

I know it has it on my 04 turbo Baja. But maybe you're right on a 2000. Thanks for the insight. I'll have to look into that next time I work on a 2003 or older.

I'm not saying that that's the rear O2s only job. Because it's primary job is to monitor the cat.

The rear O2 does have a slight bearing on fuel trims. I've heard about it in multiple training classes and from messing with scan tool data. If you have a capable scan tool. There's a data line along the lines of "Fuel correction #3" that's actually the rear O2 weighing in ever so slightly on the fuel trims. I'm only talking 2-3% max here. But it does.

What kind of engine? EA, EJ FB?

You need O2 sensors to run the vehicle And in 99 Subaru went to a front air fuel ratio sensor which is much more critical to being apart of the system Also, the rear O2 actually has some minor corrections to fuel trims. So without a cat and not tuned for it, the fuel management will be a little off. Possibly resulting in poor(er) fuel economy and more emissions (not that you care at that point)

I always have full glass coverage on my cars. For crap like this. Road caused or factory caused. Doesn't matter. Insurance covers it on a full glass plan. And your insurance probably knows your car has eyesight because they ask for the Vin and other info. So if you have full glass, the insurance Should be covering the recalibration because that is part of the "replace windshield" job

Yeah. Disconnect the feed line at the engine and let it spray on the engine a little.

I'm not 100% sure about subarud evap programming. But on other Japanese cars, they have the evap system test run after it has been sitting for 6+ hours to make sure there is no movement in the tank, and the gas has stabilized in temperature. The buzzing is normal.

The oil pans have a crush washer.

If you're taking about the actual front diff and not the transmission. Then no. The front diff uses a solid non crush washer/gasket. The transmission drain plug uses a crush washer/gasket I'm fairly certain.

When you put the parking brake in maintenance mode, it fully retracts the motor/screw that's behind the piston. So the technician can push in the caliper and wala. There is a back yard mechanic way of doing it. But its really really not recommended.

Thinking about this a little more. I don't know why my diagrams didn't show the high and low beam relay (not the DRL relay) So just to make sure. If you do have a low and high beam relay... Follow the next sentance. If you don't. Ignore it Check that each of those relays has power on one of the bigger spades, and a power and ground on the smaller ones (make sure you have the low beams or high beams on when testing)

As for the low beams. You said you have power at the bulb socket of the one that's working, and no power for the one that's not working. It appears there are two fuses that power the low beams (this low beam electrical diagram doesn't make a whole lot of sense, so I'm going to do the best I can) Check for power on both sides of both 15A fuse. One of the fuse below the DRL relay (closer to the front bumper) and the one on the right out of the two there. The other fuse is the one that's one relay over from the DRL relay. Closer to the drivers side fender. The first fuse I mentions above is pin 10 & 11 The second is pin 25 & 26 With both the higher numbers (11 and 26) being the side of the fuse closer to the windshield. Check for continuity from pin 11 and right low beam bulb Check for continuity from pin 26 and left low beam bulb I know one of the low beams work, but it'll give you a frame of reference And also, check for a ground on the bulb socket(s) That's the best I can do for now. If you have any more questions or get part way through the steps and find a problem, either PM me or just post back here. I'll do the best I can to help without being with the car. And I'm not sure where in MA you're located. But I work at a indie Subaru shop in Cromwell CT. If you can get it to my shop (if all this fails) I'll get to the bottom of it for you and get it back up and running.

So I spent a little while looking at the wiring diagram for the headlight system. I’m going to start with the High Beams as it’s a little more complicated of an issue and system. Also, I know you said you checked multiple fuses and relays and swapped some. Just for sake of preventing missing information, I’m going to assume you have done nothing so far. High Beams Not working at all: First and foremost. Do the DRLs work (if you don’t know what/where they are, they use the high beam bulb and step down the voltage to reduce brightness of the bulb) So, when key one engine running, headlight switch in the OFF position. Do the high beam bulbs light up at all? If they do, you have an issue with one or more of the following: DRL relay sticking No power going to DRL relay (gets power from Fuse #15) No ground getting commanded from the body control module (BCM). Diag Procedure: Check for power fuse #15 Temporarily jumper pin 5 to pin 4 of the DRL relay socket (relay removed) Do the high beams go bright? Yes: Check for ground on Pin 3 of DRL relay socket when key on and high beams turned on If you have a ground relay is sticking (swap to confirm) If you do NOT have a ground: Issue is with BCM not supplying ground. Need scan tool No: Jumper pin 5 to B- (battery negative) Now do they work? Yes: Issue with ground circuit on pin 4 No: Issue pre DRL relay with circuitry If DRL do NOT work when following above step Note: Might need to have key on or even engine running to follow steps below Check for power at fuse #7 and Fuse #15 (make sure you check both sides) Check for power at pin 5 of DRL relay socket Check for ground at pin 4 of DRL relay socket Check for power at pin 1 of DRL relay socket Check for ground at pin 3 of DRL relay socket when high beams are “turned on” If above is all good. Jumper pin 4 to pin 5 of DRL relay socket. Do high beams work? Yes: Try swapping relay with another known working one No: Jumper pin 5 to B- (battery negative) Now do they work? Yes: Issue with ground circuit on pin 4 No: Issue pre DRL relay with circuitry (start checking for power and ground at headlight bulb) Pinout for DRL relay Remove relay and it will look like a T I'm actually talking about the alphabetical letter T in the next sentence. Top left of the letter T is pin 1, center of T (intersection of both line) is pin 2, and the top right is pin 3. Right below pin 2 is 4 and the bottom of the T is pin 5 Use this for diag above. If you want, you can try disconnecting the battery and leaving it that way for an hour or two to "reset" the BCM. If it's an issue with the BCM input/output.

The main question is. Is there a motor on the caliper or does it have a cable that attached to the caliper. If it has a motor. You're not supposed to do rear brakes without a scan tool. If it has the cable. You have to turn the piston while pushing it in. They make special kits/tools to do the job easiest. But its not 100% necessary.

Unfortunately for a DIYer. On a 2014 Forester. The headlights are integrated into the body control module. So electrical diagnostics because more difficult without access to what the module sees and is saying. can you help us/me out. Does you car have: Push button start? Automatic headlights? DRLs? and is it a turbo? Looking at the wiring diagram all of those things matter (some very small, other more important) If you post back with info on that, ill re look at the diagram and see if I can pinpoint you to a few locations that can cause similar issues.

If you had the hgs done by a shop. You should be bring it back to them having them look at it. Because (at least at my shop) when we do HGs we use new plugs and wires etc. So if there's a misfire that only started happening soon after the job. It's likely related. If you did it yourself. Then swap the plugs and or coils. See if it moves. If not, you'll need to be checking fuel, timing etc.

Fyi, you can get the whole aisin kit with water pump for about 300$ off Amazon. Comes with all Japanese parts.

Parking lights are on a separate fuse I believe. Start there.

The first noise you're describing. The metal clanking. Sounds like a sway bar link making noise. Either that or an issue with the strut. The turning and hearing a grinding noise. That can be brake related. Does the sound change when you touch the brake? If not that noise can be from something rubbing against the tire.

That sounds about right provided mileage isn't 150k+ I'd highly recommend having a independant Subaru shop look at it before you buy it. I've heard of too many people getting screwed over with cars. That they didn't have checked out by a professional first.

2012 was first year for FB25 on the Outbacks here in the US. for 11k you'll be looking at around a 08-11' with around 70-120k miles on it (also depending on year) The 2011 (maybe 2010) with the EJ25 engine had the updated HG from factory so they are not likely to develop the feared "HG failure". 2011-13 Forester and 12-13 outbacks had the oil consumption issues due to poor choice of piston rings. So if she doesn't want to have to add oil to her car, avoid those years (unless the engine was warrantied)

You can find out MY by the VIN. It's the 10th digit, and depending on what the digit is it tells you the MY. To read more about the VIN's individual character definition or to find the chart for MY to the digit go here https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number It's just the Wikipedia page. Scroll down a bit til you find model year.

There's a switch on top of the steering column. When you cab see the red, its turned on. Turn that switch off and you'll be good to go.