golucky66

If you're losing that much coolant, and you're not experience any drivability issues. There's an external leak somewhere. Just gotta find it.

Extended warranties are always a gamble. "am i going to use it" "is something going to fail that would cost more then the warranty package" If the company offering the warranty isn't going to find every little loophole to not have to pay out. I'd get it if you're worried about it. Most of the guys on this site do their own maintenance and R&R's. So packages like don't matter to most of us, because we'll just fix it for cheap anyways. But if you can't/don't want to have to work on it. Sounds like a good idea. As for the other options. Add those on as you see fit.

Oh. Whoops i missed that! I'm sure it does. Lol

I have a working (when I pulled it) digital dash out of a 89' GL Turbo. Pulled it about 3 years ago If interested

Well, the Outback's are only available in 6-speed which is typically a "stronger" transmission over the 5-speeds. I haven't heard of any issues with subarus CVT transmissions, besides the few legacy's with a torque converter issue. Which has nothing to do with the CVT. People will say all day that CVT's are inferior to tradition automatics and manual transmissions. But CVT when done right, provide better fuel economy and in theory lower emissions and better performance. As the RPMs can sit where ever the engines most efficient/develops the most torque etc. Manual Outbacks where a very small portion of outbacks made, so it's going to be a little more "rare" to find and have one. I believe they're the only Subaru besides the WRX/STI's that have the 6-speed manuals. So I'm not sure if the maintenance cost is higher due to that. My girlfriend has a 2013 Outback manual and she likes it. The transmission is solid and shifts fine @100k (though it does need a clutch very soon. Which I believe is from the previous owner not treating the clutch well) And her parents have a 2011 Outback CVT which also runs great @ 100k with no issues. Both cars above have different generation engines, but are similar in fuel economy. (EJ253 verse FB25) The 2013 get's ~25 mpg when driven around town (no long highway driving) And the 2011 gets I believe around 24. But again, the 2013 has the new [2.5] engine which is supposed to get better fuel economy. Also. Some people say they have issues towing with a CVT and that they don't last when used to tow(the CVT transmissions that is) I can't personally give any details on towing with/without CVT. But If you're towing a "small/tiny camper" I doubt the CVT would even notice in the long run. Test drive them both (if you can find a manual) and see what you think personally. I would get a CVT, but that's my opinion. Get whichever can you decide is the right fit for you

GD, in that case. My EG33 has two sensors above the crank that both look identical (bolt hole is in a different spot) one I know is the crank sensor. But it has another one right next to it? Do you know what the other one is?

Your best bet is to go on to some of the SVX specific forums as they have TONS of write ups on how to install coolers, and what works etc. People here can give advice. But not too many of us here own/have owned svx's.

There is no external filter etc on the newer subarus. Just drain and refill 3 times, while driving in between and you'll be good to go.

Yes. The "filter" is literally just a mess screen in the transmission pan. No reason to replace it. And the "filter" is only like 85$ from the dealer.

I can't really help with details about all that (sorry) but i do have a tranny out of a 94' SVX that had a rebuild 10k ago. Would be willing to sell and ship it if you wanted.

All of this, just to have the possibility of a non-interference engine? Seems like an awful lot of work for really nothing. As people said, a god quality timing belt kit is all you need to go 100k. But it's your (future) car. So if you are set on getting an non-interference, and want it to be a newer body. Power to you. Will certainly be interesting to see what you end up doing. Just a lot of work for a mind set.

KYB is the OEM manufacturer for Subaru struts. So if you can find kybs. Use them

I have a 2009 Forester. I've had similar light issues. So the ABS light came on because it detected an issue. And then the ecm sees the abs had a code, and it turned on the check engine light. And when the check engine light turned on, the cruise comes on and flashes to notify you its disabled. So. ABS light ---> Check engine light ---> cruise. All normal (normal light operation, not normal as there's a malfunction somewhere) You have a code in the ABS module setting the other lights. The ABS can set a check engine like. The check engine light cannot set an ABS light. Go to a shop that can read the ABS module. (most auto parts stores won't have a sophisticated enough scanner to read the abs codes on a 2010. You can try. But no promises) Post ABS codes here (if you dont want a shop to fix it) Don't replace parts until you have codes and a diagnosis. Fixing with VISA is silly.

The EJ253 imo is quite a reliable engine, provided you take care of it. Find one that needs HG. Then replace them with one of the"upgrades" that's all over this site. Then never have to do them again.

Not sure exactly. Looking up 8x55x20 and looking at the bolts. My assumption would be its a 8mm bolt. Total length 55mm and the threaded portion is 20mm.

My shop stocked them and they're grade 8 as well. They're called JIS bolts (Japanese industry standard). They have a flange on them. Look identical to OEM ones. If you truly can't find any, let me know how many and the length. I can take some from my work and ship them to you for a little as possible.

I agree is hot. But it's not like its going to cause damage at 101C At idle on an 09 outback the fans turn on at 212 and turn off around 202. I am working on much newer cars then a 2000. But that's just my experience. I never said 101 is normal going down the road. Just that its not going to damage the engine.

I just had one apart about 2 months ago. I believe all the idlers are 10x1.25 Not sure about the cams.

101C isn't that hot. That only around 215 F. Just worked on a 2011 Outback. Got to about 104 C before i shut it off (was having issues burping) but the coolant temp light (newer subarus have a light and no gauge) didn't come on. I believe they come on around 235 F (the red coolant light that is) So while 101C it shouldn't be getting there cruising down the road... It isn't running hot enough to cause damage.

^ agreed. Forgot about that. If you ever read procedures from manufacturers about cleaning the throttle body. There's like 20 warnings. And solvent is one of those "be careful with" as it can possibly damage the sensor.

Someone like GD could give you a true concrete answer as he's an engine builder. But i believe they are absolutely necessary. The two of those on each head/side are what truly align the head to the block. Otherwise, you have movement because the bolts aren't a very tight tolerance jn the head. Just used to clamp. So yes. They are important. Get your hands on another.

What size if the helicoil for? Like a 8mm x 1.25, 6mm x 1.25.

When you move the plate, it's connected to the sensor internally. Can be very easy to damage if you don't take extreme care.

On my moms 2017 crosstrek they are on a ratchet. Try pulling the cushion part of the head rest forward as far as it'll go. Then let go. If it's on the ratchet I'm talking about it will go back to its starting position. If not. Then you could try bending them, if you really really wanted to. Just need to be careful... Or you can talk to the dealership and see if you can buy the ratcheting headrests for you car. I'm sure you can.

Yeah. It's on the side of it. Just check the wires to make sure they didn't somehow pull out of the connector. And they're fully seated in the connector. Then plug it back in. Sometimes the connectors just don't get plugged in fully. Try that. If that doesn't fix it. The internal sensor is damaged. Causing the ecm to not know where its at to control the idle.