Speedwagon

When I did the SPFI conversion on the Brat, I took the pump from the donor car. Everything was fine, though it did make some noise. One day it quit making noise(and just quit), so I put in an F150 pump. After a day of use, the pump got very loud. After a few days of this, I figured the pump was going bad, so I exchanged it for another pump. Same thing, after a day or so of use, the pump is making a horribly loud noise. So what's the deal here? There has to be something with my car that is making this happen. I do notice that the noise will change in pitch, in time with the turn signals if one is on. Does the noise come back to some kind of electrical problem somewhere?

I do know that the fan works, and kicks on and off. But it shouldn't be a fan issue at 50+mph up a hill. Never thought about oxidation on the outside of the radiator. Interesting idea there.

Radiator cap I replaced several months ago, because the one that was there was turning to hard rubber. Sounds like the water pump should probably be towards the bottom of the list right now then. I'll be sure to check coolant, and radiator fins for blockage. Not sure what thermostat is in there, but since they are cheap, it can't hurt to put a new one in. Thanks for the suggestions.

'87 Brat with SPFI. Over the weekend, I went up into the mountains. The temp gauge went up to the red while climbing the mountain, and while creeping along a 4x4 trail. If I turned the heater on full blast, I could cool the engine down a bit, and get it out of the red. So the question is: are my gauges a bit off due to a bad ground, is the water pump not pumping enough, or is the radiator not cooling enough? Water level was high enough, and no evidence of any leaks at the moment.

You have yet to reply to my PMs or emails lately. You are obviously on here, and know you should be replying. So ignoring a customer probably isn't a good business practice. And you have yet to send me the correct steering linkage. The fact is, I paid you months ago for a product I haven't fully received yet, because you didn't take the time to do it right initially. I was kind enough to not have a fit about it within 45 days, which means Paypal doesn't care anymore. Hindsight is 20/20 and all, so I should have filed a complaint within 45 days of paying you. My bad on that I guess, for being a nice person and allowing you time to correct it, which you still haven't done. I don't find it very funny that I paid for a product, and don't have all the correct components of that product.

I recommend against buying from Michael. He does a very poor job of standing behind his products, and is horrible with communication should anything be messed up with your order.

Apparently, Michael is not able to back up the products he sells. The kit I ordered in early March, and received, did not have all the proper pieces it was supposed to have. I have been quite patient, but I am quickly losing patience for not having what I ordered and paid for. I've sent PMs and email in the past, and still don't have everything I ordered. Consider this a bad review from an unhappy customer. I would not order anything from him again. It has been 3 months since I first ordered the kit, and I still am without all the appropriate pieces. Which means I have a kit I can't use, since it requires everything to work. And if I paid for it, I damn sure want it.

Did anything more ever come from the ideas in this thread?

I got a new engine harness from the junkyard yesterday and put it in. For the first time, the ECS light went out! Then it promptly came back on, for a code 34 fault. So the IAC issue seems to be fixed, now I just need to figure out why it has intermittent EGR faults.

How about you address the PMs I sent you 2 weeks ago? I still don't have the correct steering linkage.

Ah hah! Wiring gremlins! I just did a continuity test from pin 45 of the ECU, to various parts along the harness. There is continuity from pin 45 to the engine bay plug, on both sides of the plug. There is not continuity to the end of the engine harness for the IAC wire that correlates to pin 45. Since the plastic wire loom is basically falling apart, I think it is safe to say I will encounter more problems if I keep this harness, rather than try to get a new one at the junkyard in better condition.

I've gotten a few vehicles to pass by doing a 50/50 mix for one tank. By the nature of the way alcohol burns, it doesn't throw as many pollutants(that are tested for) out.

Just found this link, maybe it can be of use to you: http://knizefamily.net/minimopar/electrical-links.html

And on that note: it was just doing 5 rapid flashes at me, over and over, with the key in the on position. Any idea what that means? edit: So, the problems are now gone? Interesting... I'll just have to keep driving it, and see if the problem occurs again.

Do they ever question it? First time I had the Brat tested, they failed me for lack of an air pump. I basically told them they were stupid, as it never came with one. I had to go to the tech place next door, to get a waiver(that said it had pulse type air injection) for them being stupid. I will say, that if your cat if failing, E85 can do wonders to make you pass.

Once again: the spfi was swapped to a different engine(to an EA81). The water pump is not an issue. The only issue is the engine rpms. I appreciate the help you guys are taking the time to provide, but you don't seem to be reading the complete thread here. I've stated this a few times. Now, I have isolated the problem to the IAC. I just went to the store, shut off the car. When I came back out and started the car, it started screaming right away. I went under the hood, and disconnected the IAC. The idle immediately returned to normal. It seems to me that the IAC is operating reverse to what it should be... but why?

So you have 2 CTSs bad on you, in a row? I tested the CTS under the faucet, and resistance changes as the water warmed up. I didn't check for power though. Vacuum and intake leaks are highly unlikely, since I move the entire SPFI unit from one motor to another, with the same results. And I checked and rechecked to make sure I had connected everything correctly.

I don't think you are following me: I moved the SPFI components over to my EA81. Water pump isn't a problem, neither is coolant level. There is no overheating on the EA81. Throttle cable is fine, it never did this with the carb on it(and I did check it to verify). I already swapped the IAC, TPS, and CTS. Problem still exists.

Ok, while the engine was cold just a few minutes ago, I started it and then disconnected the IAC. No change whatsoever. I verified the IAC works(applied 12v manually, watched it move). I saw 12v on one of the wires feeding the IAC though, so how exactly does this thing switch on and off? Maybe the 12v supply is dead shorting somewhere? Is that a switched 12v, or switched ground?

I'm bumping this thread, because the problem followed the SPFI system. I got the car this thread was started about, and put the SPFI system on my Brat. Problem is still occuring. The ECU flashes a code 24(all the time while the vehicle is on). I swapped out the CTS, IAC and TPS with spares, still happens. When it starts to go nuts, I can bring it down to near idle by tapping the gas pedal. Once it gets down to around 1500 rpms, it jumps back up to ~4k. If I keep blipping the throttle, I can keep it jumping up and down between 1-2k though. Also, when the vehicle is cold and started, it doesn't seem to happen. But if I shut it off, walk away, and come back a short time later, when I start it up it starts doing this right away. Still does this too. Though I can often get it to start without gas applied, but it stalls right away.

Well, I thought I had everything hooked up correctly, and I went over it a few times. This didn't happen when I drove it at night, same distance. It was only during the day, when it was sunny and warm out, that this happened. I have the feed line(it was going to the carb filter inlet) going to the front most port on the manifold. I have the return line going to the rear most(and upper) port on the manifold. The line that was going to the vapor port on the carb filter(top port) ran off to the right of the brake booster, so I presumed that to be the vapor return, which is what connects to the charcoal canister, via the under-the-manifold hardline, and up to the 3rd line on the canister(#1 being the large one directly in front of the vacuum line).

Addition: Apparently gas is being siphoned out of the tank by the canister line right now. The line that goes under the intake manifold, and hooks up to the rear most line on the 3 line bracket that bolts to the thermostat housing. It's been dropping gas for at least an hour now, as I just walked out to the car and saw it dumping it. edit: Ok, I just opened the gas cap; it hissed at me and stopped dumping gas out of the canister.

Just did the SPFI conversion on the Brat. Drove it a bit yesterday, all seemed fine. This morning I just drove it, and it started misfiring. Got worse as I drove it more, and then I stopped the car, it started dumping gas out of the charcoal canister. Misrouted hoses? Some solenoid bad? Plugged line somewhere?

Yea, I decided to move the coil back to the pass side, and all is well now.

Isn't your write up, the one that says to mount it in the stock EA82 location???