Speedwagon

Anyone know?

EA81 SPFI conversion: where do I get a coil wire long enough to reach the distributor? Mounting the coil where the EA82 coil mounts, and with the distributor on the opposite side of the engine, well... ?

That right there is genius! You get the double effect too, from using less power with the LED, and not having to cool down a 40w bulb within the fridge!

Funny... the Subaru dealer said they almost never adjust valves on these cars. What would that run me? And I assume my heads as core? They use a shim & bucket for this particular setup. Anyways, i think I know what I'm doing next week over spring break: pulling the engine! And no, I didn't adjust the valves when i replaced the head gasket last time, because I was pressed for time.

205k miles, plugs and wires are fairly new, as is the coil. I get misfires on all 4 cylinders(according to the codes). It has become more pronounced in the last week, as I can actually feel at least one cylinder not firing on occasion while accelerating. And as the RPMs increase, the cylinder starts to fire. I don't think it is piston slap, though I'm not real familar with the piston slap noise.

'98 2.5. I'm getting a lot of misfires(CEL flashed regularly) when the engine warms up. I also get a clacking kind of noise from the engine as of late. I can't find anything wrong with the ignition or fuel systems to indicate the cause of the misfires. Is it likely that I am in desperate need of a valve adjustment on this?

Thank you both. And I don't know if I'm doing it yet, just pondering it. So don't know which tranny I might use, if I did it. Of course, I could use the new trans adapter that is being built to mate the W series yota trans to an EJ engine.

could potentially supply enough fuel for a JDM EJ20 turbo(1991) for an '87 Brat? I know the SPFI EA82 pump can be used for fuel injection of an NA EJ22, but I haven't read anything that indicates it could keep up with a turbo EJ20. I also know there is a power holding issue with the clutch, but I'm just speculating on the feasibility of such a thing, since I have this EJ20 sitting around. The EJ20 is supposed to go into my '98 Legacy, but the Brat sounds like it might be more fun.

I guess I'm not saying it correctly then. What I'm talking about, is apparently swapping the whole subframe from the EA82 car to the EA81 car, while doing a lift. As I understand it, that should fix the width issue, and the lift should allow the moving of the mounting points to allow it to bolt up. I have a complete EA82 parts car: I can take any part of it off to put on an EA81, I just want to make sure I'm thinking of it correctly.

Maybe I'm not understanding something here, but if you have the option to mount the trailing arms as wide apart as you want while doing a lift, why would you not get a wider track?

If you do a lift at the same time as mounting up EA82 trailing arms, can you widen the mounting points and fit the EA82 axles?

Maybe I didn't explain that well enough: I am going to use the EA82 control arm, crossmember, and such for the front, while doing a lift to adapt the xmember from the EA82 to the EA81 frame. The question here, is whether or not there is an advantage to swapping in the EA82 strut as is while doing the lift, using the lift blocks to adapt the strut tower from EA81 to the 3 bolt EA82. Or am I better of staying EA81 for the front struts.

In doing so, am I better off sticking with the EA81 front struts? Or swapping in the EA82 front struts? Full information: I have a donor EA82 wagon that is complete, and is being used for parts. I want to SPFI the Brat, as well as lift it and swap the front crossmember, axles, and such to the Brat. Yes, I know the top mounts are different, but that can be handled with the lift. Is there an advantage to using one strut over the other? Do the EA82s do that annoying clunk that the EA81s always seem to do over quick bumps?

Anyone know what kind of amps are going through the various terminals of the standard EA ignition switch?

Is that your ignition switch there on the right? Where did you get such a thing?

Have any pics? For cheap, I just might make the drive. And we are talking Wichita, KS, right?

That is a good deal, but I think shipping would be too much for the window. Fedex estimates it at well over $30. If I was closer, I'd jump on that though.

At least, as I recall, the disc on the side of the hitachi carb should be a vacuum advance. And the line that feeds it, has no vacuum at all. While messing with the wiper motor, I decided to grab my vacuum gauge and hook it up. Just so happens I pulled the line to the distributor, and got a big fat 0. Am I correct, that this is the vacuum advance? And can I just find a good vacuum line, and T into it to put vacuum back on the distributor?

Tested both cars, and both cars have 12V on the same color wire at the motor. Since the EA82 parks, that tells me the motor on the EA81 is bad. I swapped the bases, and repined the EA82 motor, and now I have a working EA82 wiper motor on my Brat, that parks, and has intermittent.

I'll have to go probe the wires and see what I get. I have an EA82 parts car that has working wipers, so I'll have to probe that one too and see which wire color is supposed to have 12v to compare.

That depends on how much, and what shipping would be to Denver(80120).

Thanks for that, as once I found and replaced that relay, my intermittent works again! However, the wipers still won't park themselves. I checked the contacts inside the motor, and everything appears to be ok. How would I test if the motor itself is causing the issues, or if it is something else?

My 87 Brat has the standard pickup style sliding rear window, instead of the 2-part that my mom's '85 brat has. Question here is this: The window opens a little too easy. There is no latch, nothing to keep the windows from moving past center, and nothing to stop(no reasonable friction) them from sliding open during turns and rough roads. Does anyone know where I can get parts to fix this window up? Or know a way to fix what is currently there?

What would you value a used topper at? I spotted one close to me, but the guy is asking $500! Supply might be next to nothing for these, but so is the demand, as there aren't that many Brats running around Colorado anymore.

I burned up 3 saw blades trying to cut this all thread. I had to resort to a cutting disc to get through it. I doubt the all thread I got is anywhere close to weak.