Speedwagon

I was going to do the standard fix, which seems to be to tap out a 7/16-20 hole, and make new studs out of all thread. But apparently the previous owner(s) have decided I'm not going to do that. The holes are already larger than 7/16-20. I have 2 of them that have an M12/M10x1.50(I think) studs, 1 with an M10x1.00 bolt, and 1 that is possible factory(the stud remains in the head, the nut came off). What is the best route to fix this now? Heli-coil? Or something else? The M12 studs have the nuts frozen on(on the M10 side), and they are a little large for the exhaust gasket(they actually have to be threaded through the gasket bolt hole).

I can't find it. I've read through threads that indicate it is the likely problem (wipers don't work on INT, and never park themselves on low or high). But I am at a loss for locating thing box in my '87 Brat. Can some of you give me more guidance to locate this thing?

Plan is to carpet(marine) the plywood you see there, just haven't gotten that far yet.

Only in certain states. Colorado has no laws regarding adults in the cargo area of a vehicle.

I'll probably get a cover for it, but since it is for a CJ, it should be fairly durable. It is made of vinyl, so nothing to soak up water. I assume I should have to care for it like a boat seat, and they hold up pretty well to the elements.

For the Brat. '87 Brat, so it never came with the rear seats. Not it will have a soft seat: It is a CJ7 seat. Fits nicely between the wheel wells, and comes with the belts. Tomorrow I mount it.

They are the newer 5 speed mounts, and I know them to be good. Yea, that could be it. If the car sits for a few days, it has a hard time starting right up. I need to really pump the gas pedal to get it to start. If memory serves, the accelerator pump should come into play here too, yes?

It only seems to do it when i change the gas pedal position quickly, and only when hot. If I hold steady, or move the pedal slowly, I don't notice it doing it. But when I let off, or push the pedal down quickly, the car does a quick buck(just once) like it just missed on 1+ cylinders, then continues on normally. Not sure what to make of it, any thoughts?

Any chance you are back up and running on these? I'm going to be in the Portland area in 2 weeks, and wouldn't mind saving some shipping costs.

'87 Brat, I did the 5 speed swap in. I'm currently using the 2 piece driveshaft, but the rear U-joint has seen better days. I swapped it out already with another one, but the one I put in there is showing its age as well. $110 to have a driveshaft shop replace the U-joint with a greasable unit, but that is per joint. Or I can take them the one piece I have, and extend it(about $140 to extend). What are you opinions on which is the better option?

It is fairly common for these Hitachi alts to die this way. I've had 2 die this way, with them charging up to 17/18 volts. And yes, it does cause all the red lights on the dash to turn on(at least in an EA81).

Yea, I noticed that while it did this, if I stabbed the gas it would start to drop back down... until it got to around 1500, then go right back up.

Got the donor vehicle today. Runs, but not great. Before it runs for a bit, it wants to die if you don't hold the gas down. After it warmed up(drove for about 30 minutes first), it started dropping down to 1500rpm, then would shoot up to 3500rpm. But it does work. Obviously some sensor is whacked at the moment. Has a CEL on, so I'll have to pull that and see what it says.

Ok. Can I just move the EA82 pistons over to the EA81 to gain more power as well then? I've read a few threads on here about doing that, don't know if one can do that with used pistons though?

'87 Brat. I'm looking at a local EA82 car for $250 for parts. Says it runs, but needs some work. Is it better to do an SPFI conversion on the EA81 engine, or just swap in the whole EA82 engine into the Brat? Probably going to try to swap the suspension bits over in the front as well, so I can get the wider track(and hopefully more travel). Thoughts? And the EA82 car is a 5 speed D/R, though I already have done that swap in my Brat.

I used to have a Ranger that had a problem going into 1st. But, it was always the slave cylinder(serious design flaw on Ford's part) that was going bad when it resisted going into 1st. If I put it in 2nd, then 1st, it went in much easier. To this day, I have a habit of going into 2nd before 1st when downshifting at a stop. I realize that there is no slave cylinder on the EA cars though.

Yea, I'm looking to stay 4 lug & do the 6 lug conversion.

Did the XT6 come with rear discs? And are they 4wd option or standard? Trying to do the rear disc conversion, and struck out at my local junkyard on a GL-10 turbo(it was 2wd). But a junkyard about 45 minutes away has another GL-10 turbo, and an XT6. The USRM for the converions doesn't mention the XT6 from what I saw, just the XT turbo.

I was quite surprised as well. When I compared the 2 keys, they are cut the same. The Brat key is even a fresh Subaru cut-from-the-code key, and it fits right into the Legacy, no problem. It is that incredibly small chance that I happened to hit.

that my '98 Legacy key would work in my '87 Brat? Because I apparently hit the jackpot. The 2 keys are cut the same, and I found out the other day I can use either key in both cars. Of all the key combos, I managed to get 2 vehicles with the exact same one!

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If I did everything correctly, then it means my timing was around 25 degrees before I touched it. Several months ago, I did the 5 speed swap. Since I used an EA82 flywheel, I put a mark on the EA82 flywheel where the EA81 flywheel had the 0 mark. I also verified this, by putting piston 1 at TDC, and seeing the mark I made at the arrow on the engine. Took the vacuum line off the distributor, and plugged it. I then checked the timing, which read around 25(I have an adjustable light). I then proceeded to have the mark at the arrow, when the light was set to 8-10. Did I do all the correct? Was my timing really set at 25 before? That seems like a lot of timing advance.

Are you saying that these carbs are jetted, more similar to a motorcycle carb than a standard auto carb? I do follow on what you said there though. I'll have to do some digging into those systems.

At least, that's the indication it is giving me. Without time to properly get to it, I ended up running a 50/50ish mix of E85 and regular gas to get it to pass emissions. Which it did, but just barely. All indications are it runs rich. Frequent popping when I let off the accelerator, sometimes very forceful pops. And it has increased in frequency since the ambient temperature has risen. Is this a simple carb adjustment issue? Or something more? How can I tell if the car is a high altitude car, if there are no stickers under the hood(if it matters that much?)?

Gotcha, thanx. I looked at it again, and didn't see an adapter plate. I believe they swapped EJ trans in too. I didn't look too closely, as it was starting to rain on me. But they are using a pull style fan on this one, and after reading some stuff on the forum here, I'm thinking I might make use of the Mercedes fan I snagged a year ago, which is a push style. That will open up some more room in the bay for the engine.