Speedwagon

1987 Brat, that I had already modified with the EA82 suspension front and rear. Recently, the car got the 5 lug swap, so the front is now Impreza suspension. The rear has been very soft with the junkyard strut and springs, and the driver side strut blew out a few months ago. I ordered new KYB EA82 rear struts for it(and conveniently, my front Impreza struts are fairly new KYBs from the yard), and finally decided to try the late 80s Accord front springs on the rear. I did before and after height measurements with this too. Before I did anything, I was at 25.5 inches at the end of the tailgate(down), 29.5 inches at the fender arches, and 24 inches at the tailgate with me sitting on it. After, I'm at 29.5 inches at the tailgate, 31.5 inches at the fender arches, and 28.5 at the tailgate with me sitting on it. It definitely rides better now. It used to really squat in the rear when I would accelerate from a stop, and it doesn't do that anymore. I'm going to drive it around for a bit, and see how it feels. I may go back and cut the spring slightly, as it is sitting towards the top of the strut travel currently. That, and I have a topper on my brat that belongs on my mother's brat, so that will reduce my weight over these springs when it's gone. Note: Honda springs are rather tightly wound, and the normal rental tool from an auto parts store will not fit in the coils. I ended up putting it on the car, and slowly compressing the spring with a jack under the hub.

Yes, but does it have a different outside diameter bushing?

Well, allow me to explain my dilemma then. 1987 brat. EA82 front cross member swap. Just did a 5 lug swap from an XT6. The bolt diameter in the XT6 is larger than the diameter in my EA82. So the new control arms have larger holes in the bushings for the bolt. Which means EA82 has 2 different bolt sizes.

There are 2 different inside diameters(in the metal sleeve) for the control arms. Does anyone know if they are interchangeable? Is the control arm itself the same, but just the inside sleeve is different?

I've been leaning that way, but hoping not because I can't find a source for the tilt column switches.

Well I've answered one of my questions. I pulled the instrument cluster to fix a few burned out bulbs, and noticed a large gap of at least a half inch between the defroster piping and the dash vents. The piping is mounted in place with 2 screws, so it looks like I'm getting some window/door seal tomorrow to seal that up.

87 Brat. On occasion, when the vehicle is started, the blower motor, radio, wipers, and maybe more don't work while the vehicle is running. When in the ACC position, everything works fine. Different problem(maybe?), the defroster isn't working that great. I had it on full blast tonight(it's snowing a good bit in Denver right now), and it wasn't clearing the windshield or side windows very well. I can hear all fan speeds operating. I'm not sure if it isn't blowing as hard as it can, or something else is going on?

I had that problem on my SPFI converted Brat for a bit. It would come and go. Turned out to be the wiring to the IAC.

87 Brat. I have the 6 lug conversion on it currently. I also have heavy as hell steel Pajero wheels on it, and I'm searching for lighter weight alloy wheels. I also have the EA82 front crossmember on my Brat, and the EA82 rear struts (though still stock rear everything else). However, while walking through the junkyard today, I found a complete XT6. So keep the 6 lug, and keep searching for new wheels (like the old SR5 wheels)? Or get the XT6 bits, and go 5 lug with some Outback wheels? I think, if I've read correctly, the front XT6 parts will be fairly easy on my EA82 crossmember. I'm not clear though if the rear will work. I want to widen the rear anyways, with an EA82 subframe(?). So I don't know if I can snag the XT6 one and bolt it up (with widening the lift blocks to match). Things of note for my current setup: I need new brakes in the rear, and at least the rear 2 struts are shot. One of the front ones may be shot as well. So I already need to replace struts. edit: Let's see if I have this correct. If I do the 5 lug conversion, for the front, I can: Use the XT6 control arms, tie rod ends, and calipers, to keep my front ebrake. Use the hub, rotor, spindle, and struts off an Impreza. If I get the FWD Impreza axle, it should fit both my 5spd D/R trans (23 spline), and the Impreza hub. For the rear, the XT6 bits will bolt up to my EA81. However, I want to grab the entire rear assembly. Rear subframe, brakes, struts(mine are shot), and axles. All of this should fit my Brat, once I modify my lift blocks to accept the wider subframe. Do I have it correct?

Thanks for the responses!

I will double check the rear adjusters. I didn't see any signs of leak from the wheel cylinders. The shop insisted they got the air out, when I started pressing them about it because it was still feeling like air in the system to me. Then they started saying maybe brake booster and other things, but I didn't see how that made sense.

98 Legacy. Occasionally the car will not start. I will get a click, and battery drain, but nothing turns. I good push start and I'm off. It has a newish battery in it. Next time all will be just fine. I'm thinking the starter seems most likely, but I wanted to make sure before buying a new/reman'd one.

I've been trying to figure out this problem with the brake pedal for a bit now, on my 87 Brat. It has a new master cylinder in it, but the pedal will go down rather far before I get good pressure. If I do a quick pump with the pedal, it will come back up towards the top. I've bled the system a few times myself, and recently had a brake shop do a flush on the system. They said they got some air out, and did it 3 times. But the problem didn't really change, though my parking brake does feel firmer now that it did before. Is there still air in the line? Or is something else happening here?

When you say output, you are referring to the output to the wheels, not the output to the rear diff, correct? (if I'm thinking of this correctly)

Except when they aren't. There is information on this forum that says depending on manufacture date, the early 95s should be 4.11, while the later 95s should be 3.9. So this one should be 4.11 according to the information, but I haven't been able to verify yet. When I pull it, I'll have to count my rotations I guess.

1996 2.2L manual outback, with a trans code TY752VABCA, which from what I've seen in charts should be a 4.11. 1995 2.2L manual legacy, with a trans code of TY752VAAAA, which seems to be either 3.9 or 4.11, depending on manufacture date. On this car, the date is 8/94. This is the parts car that I bought for the 2.2 for my 98 GT. The 96 outback is making a noise in 1st gear, so I was going to swap the transmissions(and I don't really want to do the diff as well). Trans code on the 95 is worn off the trans, and the ratio is worn off the diff. Is there any other way to verify if the 95 is a 4.11? Or do I just need to swap both? I'd like to keep the 4.11 on the 96 outback.

Swapped over the new style bracket and such. Had to cut off the mounting tab for the 2.5 cam gear cover though. Otherwise, it is working great.

Awesome, thanks.

I just dropped this 95 EJ22 into my 98 Legacy. The timing belt on the EJ25 that came out isn't that old, and the tensioner was replaced with the belt. The 95 EJ22 has the old style tensioner, while the 98 EJ25 has the new style tensioner. Since I will not be using the EJ25 anymore(273k miles on it), is it possible to swap the EJ25 tensioner onto the EJ22?

It is widened. I did torque the bolt down to 120 today. Going to check it again tomorrow, tighten it down a tad more. Some previous owner did very half rump roast fixes on this car. And the crank pulley is slightly chewed on. I can put the 2.5 pulley on instead, now that the 2.5 is out and done.

After 272k miles, pulled the EJ25D out of the 98 Legacy. For the next few months, the parts car EJ22 is going in until I get the EJ20G ready(when the EJ22 then moves to the Brat). Unfortunately, it looks like I will need to do a little more repair on the EJ22:

Just drove it around the block. All seems good with the car now.

Sounds like a sensor/component is getting heat soaked, and failing. You could test this by letting it simply sit idling for a long time, and see if it fails. If it does, and you can repeat this, you have a better chance of finding the problem(or having a shop find the problem). If it was my car, I would pick the warmest day I could, drive the car until it is fully warmed up, then park it at home and let it idle. Maybe you need to clean the inside of the car or something while this happens? Also, if it cranks but doesn't start, you need to isolate if it is fuel or spark related. Tough to do when you are out and about though.

Oh look what I found And yes, the shielding is inside the crimp connection I also found the exhaust leak. There's about 5 holes drilled in the secondary cat. edit: Just fixed all those butt splices with solder joints and heat shrink. Starts up and runs normal, no P0100 now or any misfires.

Definitely a wire issue. I clear the code, put on the entire intake piping from my 2.5(known good), MAF code P0100 comes back within seconds of firing up. On the plus side, it fires up without misfiring now, and I can rev it. Still stalls out though. The shielding is tied to ground. Of course, that doesn't mean the MAF that was in there was good. But could have only been a part of the problem. I'll try to resolve the wiring issue with my known good MAF, before trying the old MAF again.