Speedwagon

Life is much better when you get these.

Pulled the engine today. The new clutch fork and old one aren't quite the same, it seems they redesigned it slightly since 98. The nubs that push the throwout bearing are larger on the new fork(of course mine just might be that worn, too). The new one doesn't have the welded in bracket, though it does have wider side metal on it. I was missing one of the clips that holds the TO bearing to the fork. And there is slight wear on the pressure plate fingers, but it didn't seem too serious. I also discovered that the hose that goes to the back of the intake air box was disconnected(the 1/2" one on the very back). Which might explain the occasional stalling. Pics of the clutch: Must be time to do the oil plate again: And I'm not sure where this oil on the left side of the block is coming from:

You could always rent a storage garage, and a "jet" heater along with a cherry picker.

Just checked, and it's not on the pass side either.

Just the other day, there was a Ford F350(crew cab, longbed) with a massive enclosed trailer behind it stuck on some ice. I pulled him up a small hill with the Brat. Doesn't take much, if one vehicle has good traction though.

Apparently an Outback has a plug for trailer wiring, while the Legacy does not (both 97-99). What's the deal here? I pulled a hitch off an Outback at the junkyard(a whole $25). Grabbed the trailer harness from the Outback as well, only to find that my Legacy doesn't have the plug. Checked at the yard, and none of the other Legacys do either, but the Outbacks all have them. It looks like they are supplying power separately for the trailer, directly from the battery through a box. Is that correct?

This prompted me to search just for that. Which lead me to call my local Subaru dealership and ask. He asked me a counter question: did I replace all the clips on the fork? I told him no, I reused them last time I did the clutch. He suggested replacing them, before the fork. So looks like I'm going to get in there either way, and see what is what.

Exept, I just stated I replaced it...

Lately, my clutch hasn't felt right(98 Legacy GT). It engages ~0.5" off the floor. Which means if I'm slacking even a little bit, it will start to engage at a light. This is much farther down than it used to engage. I've tried bleeding it, and replaced the master and slave cylinders. I've also had problems with the engine stalling on occasion when I approach stops. No warning, just comes back down to idle, passes idle and dies. Always restarts just fine. Today I noticed a correlation between pushing in the clutch, and slight shudder in the vehicle. When in neutral, and no clutch, the engine idles fine. As soon as I push in the clutch, there is a small shudder in the vehicle that comes and goes, as long as the clutch is depressed. The shudder goes away when the clutch is out. Any thoughts on this one?

Yeah, that's pretty much what I intended. I want the ECU to be able to control the fan as normal, while adding the function to force the fan on when slow moving on a trail or something. Do you know the best place to tap in to the wiring to do that?

I've had a push fan that I bought from a junkyard(off a Mercedes) for probably 18 months now. Finally got around to putting in the Brat today. I removed the stock electric fan, as the upper radiator hose rubs against it with the SPFI swap. Put the MB fan on the front of the radiator, same location. Perfect fit. Currently it is just wire tied there, as I need to make some more permanent mounts for it. But I got it wired up, and it works great. Seems to cool it back down rather quickly when the ECU tells it to come on. Anyone know the best way to wire up a manual switch to it? I put a manual switch on my Legacy at the ECU, but the ECU doesn't like that and throws a CEL everytime I use the switch(unable to control fan circuit code). Does the EA82 ECU do the same thing?

I think that explains it. How do I fix it?

Generally, they stay on. The seal is usually designed around the trim.

Subaru, to my knowledge, doesn't sell them anymore. All the current ones are very brittle. I have access to a 3D printer, that prints parts in ABS plastic. Would this be a good way to make new ones? If so, would people here be willing to buy some? And would someone be willing to turn the current part into a file I can use(I'm no good with CAD and such)?

1998 Legacy: Today, I was going to swap out my rear diff and rear lateral links. But I encountered a bit of an issue doing this. When I tried to get the long bolt out of the lateral links to hub, they seem to be frozen in place and won't turn, despite getting the nut off(off one side at least). As well, the alignment bolt that connects the lateral link to the cross member is frozen to the inner sleeve on the bushing. Any advice on how to get them off? I have replacement bolts that aren't rusty from the junkyard car.

Looks like I'm just an idiot. After tightening the intake properly, I pulled the oil pan. Nothing there to cause oil problems. Put it all back together, and it is running fine again.

I do like grossgary said. Line the cams up to each then, then to the belt. If you do it correctly, they might rotate back slightly when you install that last idler pulley. But if everything is lined up properly to the belt, it is correct.

Started the car up this morning, and it started fine. Drove it 2 blocks to get it in a position to tow it back to the shop. I definitely forgot to torque the intake manifold on properly. So that probably accounts for half of the problems. Next I need to drain the oil, and see if anything shows up there. The engine sounded fine though this morning when I started it.

I just went back to the car(parked on the street 4 blocks from my apartment, where it died). Restarted just fine, didn't make the knocking noises. Oil pressure shot up to 6 bar like it usually does on cold start. So I guess now I'll tow it back to the shop, and poke around to see what is wrong. Possibly something got down in the engine when I had it apart? Maybe a piece of paper towel or something fell down and got sucked up by the oil strainer. Double check all my hose routings as well. I feel better knowing it restarted fine cold though.

I've had these gauges for a long time, so I know what I normally run at. And I was below that. Kept hitting 0 at idle, and wouldn't go above 2bar revving. Not normal.

Rebuilt it yesterday, swapped it out today. Drove it a few miles home, and it didn't make it. Stalled three times, the third time it didn't restart. Started making noises... Maybe piston slapping or knocking on restart. According to my Defi gauge, the oil pressure started fine, but gradually dropped off.

I... am an idiot. I could have sworn I checked the 20A fuse under the hood for the subfan, but apparently I did not. Looked at it today, and it was blown. Replaced, and the subfan comes on again.

I have not seen any Justy's in the yards out here. Don't get your hopes up on that one.

Right... 98 Legacy GT.

I was under the impression it would come on with the main fan, when the A/C was turned on. But this appears to not be the case. So what conditions enable the sub-fan?