Speedwagon

You can individual order them from rockauto, as I had to do recently. I reused a bunch on the EJ20G engine I have, but it has been sitting around for about 8 years without being used. I ended up having a lot of those grommets leaking.

If you get a 15" Pug wheel, then you can put that size tire on yes.

Turns out there is a place local to me, that has all kinds of various seals and o-rings. Found the proper type of rubber at this place. Next week I'll pull the HH apart, and verify these fit and work. If they do, I'll post up the info so anyone can order these.

It's not my welder(it belongs to the shop that I'm a member of). I was using gas, but I don't know how they fill it. Possibly too much wire(it's a 240V snapon MIG).

I have thought about that a bit, since I just had the hill holder apart. I see no reason keeping the clutch in should help with the process. How does one know if the rear prop valve is sticky? And is there a resolution to such a thing?

Round part? Could you be more specific?

Mounted the hi-lift and CB antenna to the bumper today:

Good to know, I've been trying to figure out the best place to go/order from.

I haven't noticed any leaking in the rear. However, I have had issues with the right rear locking up before the other tires on gravel/dirt roads. So my wheel cylinder might be bad back there. Wouldn't hurt if I changed them out, along with the springs and such in the rear. Rubber lines: well, they are original and have exterior cracks. I've been wanting to replace them with braided SS lines, but haven't had the cash yet.

One of these days, I might actually finish and paint the thing... Since I have some time on the my hands right now, I opted to add a hi-lift mount and CB antenna to my front bumper. I used a 2x4 tubing that I cut in half, and welded to the bumper for the hi-lift mount. My welds aren't very pretty yet, but they do hold: And then I added the CB antenna. Figured the front bumper was a good place for it: I'm thinking I might go back and weld plates to the tops of the mounts, and then use that as a mounting point for my Hella lights.

I used standard o-rings that I had available. I know there is the potential of them degrading over time, but at least I'm not leaking right now. And I can source better ones. The ones I used were: ID/OD mm 9.8/14.6 and 22/28. I did save the old ones though, incase I need to go back in there soon.

On my 87 Brat. The pedal just isn't getting as firm as it should. I replaced the master cylinder not long ago with a brand new one, and I just rebuilt the hill holder the other day. But I still don't have a rock hard brake pedal. About half way down, there is a "soft" spot that can be felt. Suggestions on how to get the pedal back to the way it should be?

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'87 Brat, EA81 with SPFI conversion on 215/75/15s, driving from Denver to CO Springs and back: calculating for the difference in the odometer, I got around 31mpg on that trip. And that is maintaining around 70+mph on the highway. But as stated above, with that small tire size difference, I wouldn't expect to actually see a difference in fuel economy.

***PART INFO: I bought 3 o-rings from Rocketseals(www.rocketseals.com/303-777-7024) 2x 2-110 EPR 1x 2-118 EPR These are brake fluid safe, and should fit the hill holder. I make no promises, but they worked for me in an '87 Brat rebuild. Rocketseals is in Denver, and the parts cost me $1.40. I asked about phone orders, and they said they do phone orders and ship. The red circles indicate where the seals are that you are replacing. Since I couldn't find any threads on this, and my hill holder was leaking, I decided to tear it apart today. To rebuild one, you really only need 3 o-rings, and 2 are the same size. The pictures should tell most of the story. Pull it out of the car. Remove the nut and cap on the spindle. Remove the snap ring with the appropriate tool. Remove the front cap with a large allen wrench/socket. Remove the circle spring thing and ball bearing. Remove the plastic insert. Remove the metal rod with spring. Remove the cam spindle(there are o-rings on it, so it might require force). Replace o-rings, and put it back together in the opposite order. Dirty, nastiness: Clean and disassembled:

I just did this to my '98. There is apparently no o-ring in that grooved slot on the pump itself, only an o-ring around the reservoir nipple. There was no evidence that the larger o-ring had ever been present, so I just replaced the o-ring on the reservoir. I used one with a 10mm ID.

I seem to recall it being farther to closest from the master cylinder.

I just replaced the cam sensor on my '98, which was causing issues between 3-4k rpm that always felt like it was pulling timing to me. Swapping the cam sensor with a junkyard one has, so far, made the problem go away.

As I said, it was only the block that was swapped. Intake manifold and everything is the same, so yes the stock injectors. After swapping out the cam sensor, the problems between 3-4k rpm seem to have gone away. It might be too early to make that call, but with a drive between Denver and Boulder yesterday, I wasn't having any problems. Coolant level is steady. I had, previously, thought there might be a problem maintaining fuel pressure. Though I can't say I've given that much thought recently. I'll have to wait and see how the cam sensor pans out. If the problem returns, I'll check the fuel pressure.

I always go in from the top. Remove the airbox on the pass side. I can usually squeeze past the battery, depending on its size(otherwise you might need to remove it). Also, I use a standard spark plug socket(with the rubber insert) and a small extension(4" I think) to remove/insert the plugs with my fingers doing the turning to start them.

I suppose there could be two issues happening at the same time though. Some sensor could be out of wack, causing the startup misfire/rough running, and the O2 sensor could be causing the 3-4k rpm stumbles. I just swapped out the cam sensor with a junkyard OEM sensor. We'll see how that goes. I'll probably order a new O2 sensor shortly(it certainly wouldn't hurt to put a new one in anyways).

Ok... but the O2 sensors don't explain a cold startup issue from what I know, like was experienced when I reset the computer codes. To my knowledge, they are only active when the vehicle is fully warmed up.

Update: Checked the timing belt, did a tooth count and it came out correctly. Checked the coil: secondary is spot on, primary (on a really crappy DMM) was 1.2 (spec is 0.73) Pulled the codes, got P0301, 302, 303, 304, 403. All cylinder misfires, and the 403 is the EGR(which has not been hooked up, since the EJ20G block doesn't have a port for it). Reset the computer, and I know have a confirmed new symptom: everytime I reset the codes, it runs like crap until it learns something. Not throwing any codes yet, but it's misfiring(?) consistently somewhere at the moment. I also reangled the knock senser, since the FSM said it should be at a 45 angle. I replaced the crank sensor a few weeks ago, with a junkyard one(I had an aftermarket, now it has an OEM). Pulled all the spark plugs, and they all looked the same. No indications of unburnt fuel. Had someone else listen to it just now, and he described it as more of a flutter than a misfire.

How would any of those scenarios be any different than someone buying a proper speed rated tire, and continuously driving on it underinflated or overloaded(which can result in a blowout)? They are all operator negligence, not tire store negligence.

Very much the ujoint. I got it off today, and the one part of the upper joint was too seized to move by hand. Put in the one I got from the junkyard, and my steering is much better now. It returns to center again.