Speedwagon

Thanks.

Is the exhaust manifold on the EJ22 turbo a 3 piece cast unit? As it turns out, I'm missing 2 gaskets for my EJ20G exhaust, where the 3 manifold pieces go together. Are the gaskets something I can easily get from a US dealer?

O-rings I'm already replacing, since the compressor has been out. I just went to CAP today and got a non-corroded bracket to remount the compressor. Now I need to find the other hose(short one) that I removed, and replace the o-rings, and find a good shop. Are you saying that YOU have the equipment to do it?

Also, position the heaviest part of the wheel straight down. Less likely to try and move then.

With the recent cold weather blast here in Denver, I've noticed the issue a bit more. And it feels like a U-joint, in that it is stiff, then turns easier, then gets stiff again. Haven't poked my head down there yet, but I may just go grab another at the junkyard for cheap, and swap it out.

On my 98 Legacy, there is no apparent sensor/switch on the power steering pump. On my '91 JDM PS pump that I have sitting around(from the engine that I brought back), there is a 2 wire sensor/switch on the back of the pump. Any idea what this is? And if it is elsewhere on the 98? Will it effect anything if I were to switch to the 91 computer(for the turbo)?

Pulled the codes today. P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire P0403 EGR (which I knew about, the EJ20G block doesn't have the EGR port) P0463 Fuel level sensor A circuit high input Freeze frame data said 3500rpm, 185F, 0mph The most interesting thing, is that I erased the codes. The next few startups, it was misfiring like crazy. As if I reset the computer, and it had adapted to something that was malfunctioning before. It hasn't done the blatant misfire on startup in a few weeks, and didn't do it earlier today, until I erased codes.

Yeah, my old one certainly was. I'm hoping that the junkyard cars will be fairly easy, since there isn't much corrosion out here. I can't say for sure, but it almost felt like the engine was pulling timing around the 3-3.5k mark as I drove home last night. Just a bunch of quick stumbles, that kept happening as I kept it in the rpm range.

I had the pinch bolt snap off before on my Legacy. But since I now live in Colorado, instead of dealing with drilling it out I just got a new hub for $25 at the local junkyard, rust free. And there are a lot of them here. I know that probably doesn't help you out too much though, since you are on the other side of the Miss.

Ok. Maybe I'll try and snag one from the boneyard, and swap it out. Shouldn't cost more than $10, if that.

Engine is out of the car, so I can't do a standard compression test on it using the starter. I did do a leakdown test on the engine though. The results, with 70 psi: 1: 68psi, hissing from valve cover breather 2: 64psi, hissing from exhaust valves 3: 63psi, hissing from exhaust and VCB 4: 60psi, hissing from exhaust and VCB I had suspicion of a blown HG, which is why I pulled the engine and dropped in my EJ20G block. However, after I did this, I discovered a hole in my radiator, and the misfire issues continued(indicating something other than a mechanical issue). So what does the leakdown test tell you about this engine? What else should I do at this point with it?

2 pipes go to the condenser, which is in front of the radiator(looks like a mini-radiator). Each pipe bolts onto the side of the condenser. Should be an o-ring on each one. If you remove the grill, you can see the condenser.

$45??? What kind of place? I got quotes going well above $100 for a full system recharge.

Update: I cleaned the MAF Friday, to see if that would change anything, as I had a long drive to do yesterday. Wasn't hot out, so I can't say anything about that. Startup yesterday was fine. But after awhile down the highway, I noticed the issues again below 4k rpm. What it feels like to me, is almost like a fuel starvation problem. A few quick jerks while holding steady rpm, around the 3-3.5k mark. If I get the engine above ~4k, it cleans up and feels like it gets a little more power. Also, radiator is holding steady, and no evidence of anymore coolant loss. I'll probably go over to the shop later today, and pull the codes again to see what it has, and reset. I'm not familiar with the CAS acronym. What is that?

When I went looking for a u-joint to use in the Brat for a lift, I saw no difference in a 95-99 Legacy and Outback. They appeared identical to me. And thanks, I'll check the u-joint. Belt is good, it's not that old, and no signs of it slipping.

'98 Legacy GT. The steering feels stiff to me lately. It seems like it "sticks" wherever it's at(as in, it resists turning if straight, or resists returning to center if turned). Kind of hard to pinpoint, but just doesn't feel right to me. PS pump has fluid(at proper level). Any thoughts on this?

Well, in the last year, I've probably gotten about 5 numbers from the Brat, all left on the windshield. All the others have been wanting to buy it.

So I'm guessing this person that left the note, is not on this forum. It was a note asking for help in regards to his 83 Turbo, won't pass emissions because the turbo is blown(only has 93k miles on it). My first thought would be to replace the turbo, but I don't know how available these turbos are. Thoughts?

Aftermarket, replaced it when I changed the oil pump and couldn't get the old one out(less than a year ago).

Technically, yes, but because I had a hole in my radiator. Which is now fixed. So coolant should be stable now.

Ah. I've only done this process on a Brat, so I didn't have any many things in the way as on a newer Legacy. I have dropped the tank on my Legacy though. Pretty easy and straight forward, except rust was my biggest issue. All the lines connect on top of the tank though, underneath the access panel inside the vehicle. But this was on a 98 Legacy. I don't know for sure on the newer ones.

Before doing that, you could try forcing air down the vent tube. Disconnect at the canister, remove the gas cap, and use an air compressor to push air through the line. It's a good way to check if it is obstructed, as you should hear air hissing into the tank.

If that's it, it'll be the second time on this car. Not unheard of though, since it is an aftermarket piece. I'll have to do some DMM readings on it.

'98 Legacy GT. Swapped the EJ25 block with an EJ20G block (HG blew again in the EJ25). Still having misfiring issues, seemingly electrical in nature. When the engine heat soaks(has been run for awhile, then turned off and sits for a bit when it is hot out), upon restart I will get a misfire. This can be cleared by revving it out. However, it doesn't always run properly below 4k rpm. Above 4k, and it seems to run great. But it seems to get the occasional misfire below 4k. Any thoughts on just what could be causing this? Codes indicate misfires on multiple cylinders, so it has to be something common to all.

I was in my Brat.