
haugenlee
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Everything posted by haugenlee
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I got it reset. The light was on when I turned the car on again, but when I ran the codes none showed. After driving for a few miles I checked again. Just 27 this time - Rear left abnormal wheel speed sensor (open circuit or input voltage too high). I found a document that gives a step-by-step of what to check for ABS codes. If anyone needs it, let me know. Looks to be very helpful. Supposed to have a new layer of snow and a lot of wind tomorrow. I will pull it in out of the cold to check some things out to see what I can get going. Thanks again, 1-3-2-4, for getting me on that path. This looks a lot more manageable now.
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I did that. That's how I found out that the codes I have stored are 21, 23, and 27. I was just hoping we could pull some more or more detailed codes with a reader. He usually reads ABS codes with it. I figured we might not get something from it, but I thought it was worth checking. I just am looking as to where to start with the three codes that I have right now, as I don't know what to have fixed given that three (probably all) of the wheel speed sensors say they are bad. I don't think that would be the case. I assume the circuit trouble might not be happening with each individual sensor, but maybe in the module instead. I will try resetting the codes to see if they come back. I haven't done that yet. Not sure why I didn't think to do that. Thanks for the idea.
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There are loads of ABS topics on here, and I have dug through many of them. They are tough to search on this site, as it won't search words with four letters or less. (ex. ABS, any code numbers, the word 'code') So, I might be discussing something that has already come up. After a lot of digging around, I finally found the diagnostic terminals under several layers of electrical tape and check the codes stored in the car. I came up with three (well, at least three...I'll get there) 21, 23, and 27. All of them are "Wheel Speed Sensor Open or Short Circuit" for both front sensors, and the rear left. Now, my question is, what is the likelihood that the rear right sensor would throw the same code? It seems to me that the the 'Open or Short Circuit' must be happening at the ABS computer to throw the same code for all three. Does anyone else have thoughts on this? Where I should start looking? A guy I know has agreed to run the codes at a dealership (no cost, thankfully) because I couldn't find the diagnostic terminals. Would his code reader (I assume it is one that can read through OBDII) retrieve more than just three codes? I am far from being a mechanic. Sorry if I missed any other important details. I am learning as I do with hopes of keeping this car around for a while.
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Thank you for the video. And for making them, milesfox. I think I will dig into it today to see what I can do.
- 11 replies
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- Head
- Head gasket
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I appreciate the help and encouragement to give it a go on my own. On Wednesday I will try to pop the TB cover off to take a look for myself to see if I can pinpoint where the coolant is coming out. I have not had to add any coolant to it, and there isn't a sign of any coolant on the ground. I was just told he found it behind the cover on the passenger side. Whatever leak there is, it has to be pretty small. Are the cam and crank seals tough to do? So far I have only had a glance at the links you shared, and I might find my answer there, and I'm sure I can track down a good guide somewhere on the Internet. I was dumping oil out of one or a combination of those seals and out of the bottom of the TB cover very quickly. So, I have to do those, and based on how much oil was coming out, I can only assume the TB is covered in it. I don't want that to break it down too quickly even though it was done no more than 30k ago. The other piece of this that I forgot is my check engine light is on with a coolant temp sensor code. Does that point to anything related to this? I know those have a tendency to have problems. Until now I just assumed it wasn't causing a problem, and I did not have a place to work on it to replace it on my own. I will obviously get that done now, too. I just wanted to offer any other information that might spark an idea in someone who knows a bit (or a lot) more than I do. Thanks again for your help. I really want to make this one work, and I want to make sure it gets done right. I just can't do the $1600 I was quoted by this guy to get in there.
- 11 replies
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- Head
- Head gasket
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I have a 96 Legacy L Wagon with an EJ22 in it. I have 120,000 on the car, I bought it 3,000 miles ago. Now I have a head gasket leaking coolant from the passenger side under the timing belt cover (according to my mechanic). The car runs fine. It has not overheated. I brought it in to have the cam and crank seals done because they were dumping oil. I am reading more and more about how uncommon this head gasket issue is on the 2.2. I am starting to wonder if this guy has it wrong. Is there something else I should check out? In order to do this, I need to cut some of the parts costs. Do I have to get OEM head set? Is there something more reasonably priced available that will hold up for the many miles I have left on this engine if I can get it on track again? Quoted parts: $440 That seems higher than it has to be from my searches around the web. Do I have to put in a new head bolt, too? I know some are designed to expand once. Is that true on this? Quoted: $125 I have checked out few videos showing how easy it is to plane the heads, too. Easy enough for me to do on my own without messing it up? That would cut a significant cost for me, too. Quoted: $150 I would love to dig into it myself, but without a lot of experience, I need a big confidence boost or someone who knows more than me to help me out with it. Thanks for you help.
- 11 replies
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- Head
- Head gasket
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(and 4 more)
Tagged with: