the sucker king

Can't remember what it came out of.

is there a sticker on the diff? I have never seen a 3.9 LSD sticker besides vlsd or was this rear end converted at one time?

what year and engine is this car?

curious about this, is that a viscous or clutch type lsd and do you know if it was stock to the car you pulled it from? I've always heard there was a stock clutch type 3.9 used in some some models but have never seen one first hand.

3.9 no lie

bump. Still have this engine, $50 The jackmans $100, and I will ship if you pay for it. they are even boxed and ready. see the shipping quotes in post #8.

Do they use the same brackets and all, xt6 and a gen 3 era car (late 80s wagon).

Do they use the same brackets and all, xt6 and a gen 3 era car (late 80s wagon).

bump still have the wheels and the engine. I won't ship the engine but the wheels are boxed and ready, you can use the above quote as a ballpark for shipping

most of the cleaner assemblies I think have one fairly large hole in the base plate. I drilled a second one for the other side. You might be able to just tee off and use just the one hole, I don't know . The pcv system is meant to flow properly when everything is hooked up (one side the valve cover is pumping air out, the other side taking it in). I didn't know if teeing the two valve covers would keep it from flowing right, so I drilled the second hole to be safe because that would mimic the original set-up.

other big hose (left of pic) runs from passenger side valve cover to air cleaner.

here's a front view of the weber manifold. hose on the right (as you view in this pic) goes to the pcv valve. it is split as you see. One hose goes to the air cleaner (the small one that disapears behind the carb). the other fat one goes to valve cover (the one that disappears out the right side of photo). did that make sense?

The 2 bbl hitachi is good. It is not the dog that your 1 bbl is. But these are 30 year old carbs. A hitachi carb has twice as many parts as a weber. If you put on a 30 year old hitachi, you will eventually have problems sooner or later. If you are looking at rebuilding one, weber is way easier for a carb that will give you better power (it is VERY noticable) . A rebuilt hitachi will cost you nearly as much as a weber. Nothing wrong with a hitachi but a weber is better. look around at all the weber threads on this board.

I saw your other post and I think what you are asking is about swapping a 2 barrel Hitachi on for the 1 barrel CARTER-WEBER (not the same as the weber you hear talk of on this board). Basically the answer is yes, you can swap the hitachi and manifold on for the ones you have now, I would think you would want to use one from an ea81 without an ECU. Most people here will tell you if you are going to go through the trouble of doing what you suggest, put a weber 32/36 dgv on it instead of the hitachi. You will still need the hitachi manifold. It is a better carb and you will love it. The hitachi is better than the one barrel, but in the long run is just as problematic in my opinion. there are tons of threads on here about the weber swap.

Ben through binghamton many moons ago. My dad still lives near Catskill. I grew up outside Albany. been in Colorado 24 years now, never looked back. Loeve living in the west. very different from the east coast.

Just read this, I didn't realize you did these yourself. Very cool.

Where in New York? I grew up upstate

Looks very nice, I like the tires you cose too. Where do they rub? Those 13" alloys are one of my favorate wheels for old subarus. I forgot I used To get 185/80/13 for an old hatch I had. They were getting hard to find. They would make for a nice second set of Wheels on that ride you got there

$80 shipping to 92021 $90 shipping to 76255 (for the wheels, not the engine)

those are 215/70/15

I ran 185/70/13 on an unlifted hatch didn't even come close to rubbing. that was a 23.2" tire. your 185/55/15 would be smaller than that, so would be fine, but dunno the offset of that wheel. could rub on the rear inside of the front if the wheel moves the tire in. even your 195/55/15 would be less than 24" so I would think would be good, disregarding the offset. I have those same wheels, painted black (yours are sweeter!). look familiar?

Any gen 1 guys in Colorado? I have seats for free in the for sale section. Would love to get rid of and have more stuff too!

the wheels are boxed up and can be shipped, but I'm not going to ship the engine.

I have never heard about Subaru recommending not to keep it adjusted all the way up, but it does put more stress on the torsion bars to keep them in the raised position, so it would weaken them over time in theory. I have never broken one and have left them adjusted up the majority of the time. Some people on this board have broken them, but I think most of them adjusted it by clocking the torsion bars beyond the stock adjustment., stressing them even more. I wouldn't think twice about leaving it adjusted all the way up. The front adjusters get real dirty and rust really bad. soak them with penetrant for a long time and make sure you adjust them with the car in the air, not on the ground. same for the rear, take the weight off the suspension. Nice score!

Haters keep hatin'......that ain't nothin new. I tested it out with 30 gallons of gas today and ran it off the auxiliary tank. It doesn't run well, probobly because there was still some agave syrup in the tank (that was the last thing shipped in the tank aparently). I'm going to fill it tonight. I figure with a full 275 gallons, the agave should be diluted enough that I won't have to adjust my mixture on the carb. So hate all you want, I'll still give you two toots on the horn as I roll by while your FILLING UP AT THE GAS STATION, SUCKA!