the sucker king

I thought about putting it on a trailer, but this way is better for off roading.

No man. It'll be fine.

check out my auxiliary fuel cell. 275 gallons. With my 12 gallon stock tank added in, I can now go 7000 miles without refueling. As soon as I get $900 I'm gonna fill it.

yeah kinda sorta, suposedly there was a dual range tranny for the 1600, but I have never seen one in many years of looking. What you want to do CAN be done, but it won't be a straight swap. You could put a 1800 motor in and a dual range tranny would mount to that, and there would be more complications that go with that too. But it is doable.

I also think all ea81 bodies have the same windshield. Door glass is what is different. Just so you know, I have been able to find new windshields and gaskets from auto glass companies here in CO, so they are still available. If you are just looking to go cheap, the razor knife at the JY is the ticket, and please do be careful. I see uncracked glass in the jy from time to time, but don't really see good gaskets. The gaskets I have found new all have the groove for the chrome trim which is hard to find in good shape used, although it might still be available (albeit over-priced) from the dealership. To truely fit tight, you should use that trim, but I have used the grooved gasket without the trim and it doesn't leak or anything, but we did use glue of some sort, which you are not supposed to do.

cept thats not right. 82-87 brat 80-89 hatchback 80-84 everything else (wagon, hardtop, sedan) That is for North America, elsewhere could well be different. I refer to these as Gen 2 instead of ea81, as some came with ea71 engine and the main point being the above describes a generation of Subarus where much is interchangable.

what is the determining factor as to weather a 1.8 manifold can be modded to fit a 1.6? I have a 1.8 manifold (hitachi carb) I can send to you this week if you want it $20. honestly I didn't think the holes would line up from 1.6 to 1.8.

check this out- your rotors are the solid kind, not vented, correct? If so, check this link. I have been trying to unload these and I hate to scrap anything. I think these calipers will fit in a $12.35 flat rate box. for $5 over that I'll send these to you. PM Me if you want http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139633-for-sale-complete-solid-rotor-gen-2-front-brake-set-up-or-any-part/

Apparently Camp D.ic.k gets changed to camp wongleflute on the site now. So if my name is Richard, and I want to go by wongleflute?

I have bold plans for rebuilding the rear end, but in the meantime i just want to drive this while I work out the bugs. I had a bad wheel bearing in the rear nearly end my life, so I figured I would start there. i pulled out both trailing arms, painted them, put in new bearings and seals as well as new bushings for the pivot point (you can't get these, but the bushings for the front control arms seem to work just fine) now at this point I really wanted to put in rear disks, but I am having a hard time finding the backing plates and hubs. I have brand new rotors and calipers waiting to go in. If anybody can help me out with backing plates and hubs, please get in touch. In the meantime a band-aid. At least it's a nice band-aid. new hardware, cylinders and shoes, plus I rebuilt the adjusters. the shoes were actually a new set I had for a gen one, the frames are different, but they seem to fit and they work fine. So that's where it's at now. Next is a custum y-pipe, custom 4wd shift linkage, and cut and remount the good fenders. Baby steps. this is going to take a while, But i will say it's fun as hell to drive, I was turnin heads from one side of Longmont to the other today, and on the trail It is definately way more capable than it was before I did all this stuff. it drove from Bunce school to Camp wongleflute like it was a street (any locals following this thread?) That's all for now. Oh no there is one more thing I added brand new rear halfshafts too.

double post

Turns out you can still get the torsion bar bushings from the dealer. $44 per piece. You can not get the mustache bar bushings, which came pressed into the bar ans sold as a unit (no longer available). You can still get the rubberized washers that sandwich the m. bar bushings. I didn't ask about the trailing arm bushings, but I recenty used front control arm bushings and they worked fine. So question for 86Bratman or anyone with an answer- you say you can clock the outer arms with the rear end still in the car. When the car looks like it does in the pic below, how do you disengage the outer arm from the splines? Just pull it? Did you get a prybar on it? I am not doing this yet, I am going to do it with another rear end while it is on the bench, but I just don't get something.

I do not, sorry

No I have not touched this since, I will at some point put heat on these to seperate these. I will rebuild my rear end after I figure these out, it's been put on hold for now. I wonder if you can still get those bushings from the dealer? didn't see them on rock auto. I will definately update this when I tweek the suspension on my hatch. will be a while.

I don't think anybody has asked, what does the mechanic have to say? what does he think happened, and what does he want to do from here? A lot of people are saying screw this guy take him to court, but if the mechanic is honest and wants to make it right, you can go that route too. What is his attitude?

you would have to hook it up or cap it. If it just "wasn't hooked up" it would be spewing all over the top of the engine.

check your carb heat water passage thingy at the base of the carb, sometimes leaks when you dead head it for the weber swap. I always put a little silicone around mine, some others put jb weld in it.

also wouldn't assume he is legally liable. the car is 30 years old and you would need some proof that he's at fault. Don't get me wrong, I would be rather upset with the guy and i do think he did something very wrong. But you never know. You need to find out whats wrong with the engine.

I don't like some of the things he said. A carb should not need to be rebuilt after a year and a half, and I would not assume that it needs to be rebuilt for not idling. But then I don't know how he diagnosed the need for rebuild. Gas in the oil? don't know what that's about. The intake gaskets leaking could have been the reason for no idle in the first place. This is all speculation, but something definately stinks.

I've never been able to find this part and have seen at least one other member here say the same. I am talking about the diagonal arm whatever you want to call it, the arm in the rear that houses the wheel bearing, the bushing at the top where it bolts to the rear crossmember. Fronts are easy to find and it turns out, they fit in the rear just fine. I thought they looked the same and the fronts are easy to find, rockauto, ebay and probably your local auto store as well has them readily available. I had them pressed in today and they are an exact fit. I only have seen them listed as front specific, never seen them listed as rear, so this is good news. You're welcome.

No you've been most helpfull, good job on the lowered ride too! I still can't get the thing seperated, I beat it with a BFH ( this is an old junk one I am experimenting with) will try heat sometime soon, putting it down for now.

was the ride notable softer? did you measure the difference? according to Bentlys that should have been nearly 3 inches for one outer tooth.

so it does just pull out, or does the arm go towards the bar. Youy are the first one to say they lowered a car this way. what did you do and how did it work?

engine is a good runner, less than 150k on it. $50 set of 5 jackmans $100

bump- can anybody tell me how to seperate the outer arm from the torsion bar.?