the sucker king

exactly what did you do, did you clock inside or both and how much?

Let's have a great discussion about clocking tortion bars. In reading Bentley's Manual and the FSM I have come to find out there are more possibilities here than I realized. For clarity's sake, we are not talking about using the adjusting bolt, but clocking the spines of the torsion bar. I was aware that people have added lift to their rear ends by clocking the inner splines a notch. It should add about 2.5 inches for one notch. I have been told that this makes the rear end stiffer. I assume this is because of the angles of the outer arm. The closer to verticle the outer arm (or spring plate as Bentley's calls it) gets, the more force required to twist the torsion bar. I would assume then, that the closer to horizontal it gets, the softer your ride should get in the rear. Has anyone used clocking to lower their ride? I'm getting ahead of myself, read on.... What I learned that i didn't know before is that by clocking both the inner and outer splines in opposite directions, You can change the ride height in (roughly) quarter inch incriments. Got me thinking for my hatch.... My hatch has a 6 inch body lift in the front, 3 inch body lift in the back. This is a good set up in that I really like the way it sits pretty level (well at least with both front and back with stock adjustments all the way up). So I like the way it looks. A couple improvements I could think of making to this set up 1. more body lift- another inch or two and I could mount a gas tank from a 2wd, which holds a few gallons more. But if I boost the rear with more body lift, would not sit level, could drop the adjustable to make it better. I like the softer ride with the suspesion adjusted all the way down 2. the car would look better with the rear wheel a little farther back (See pic below). I suppose clocking the torsion bar in a lowering fashion about an inch or two would move the wheel back a little, maybe not enough to really notice but it would certainly sit different. And that should also soften the suspension, right? look at the rear wheel and how if it were moved back it would be better centered in the wheel well. There is only like a half inch between tire and body on the front side of the rear wheel. It doesn't rub on the trail, but it doesn't look good. So I started tinkering with an old rear end I have rusting behind the shed. removed the torsion bars from the crossmember. Here's what is inside your crossmember: So I can not get the outer arms and bushings seperated from the torsion bars. I assume they are just rusty rusty. My manuals just say to remove them without anything on how to remove them, which makes me think they should just pull apart. Anybody done this? They are soaking in PB overnight. What I am thinking of doing to my car's rear is add another inch or two of body lift and lower it an inch or two via torsion bar clocking. What i am hoping to accomplish by this would be- Fit bigger gas tank Car still sits level Softer suspension in rear Rear wheel sits back a little further Who's got experience here? I would like to hear from anybody who has clocked the torsion bars, especially by rotating both ends in opposition to each other, and also especially anyone who has lowered their rear this way. Here's some good reading, I hope you can zoom in and read. first is bentley's second is FSM

Hey here is something interesting- How to keep your subaru alive manual has instructions on adjusting hydro lifters (just in case that's what you have). You should be able to zoom and read this.

If the dealer doesn't have I could probably grab you a set next time I go to the jy, maybe this upcoming weekend . if you are in no hurry. also try posting in the want ads here. I d sell you my spare set, but dunno if I can replace them with good ones.

heres better pics of what you are looking for- the ones on the top in the pic of 4. I have never been able to find new ones of these. I know this seems a bit obyious, but did you call a dealership? I have been surprised more than once by these little old parts they still can get. Other than that, I grab them at the junkyards from time to time so I always have a spare set. ggod luck

Thanks.

sorry I didn't mean hub, which I assume bolts to the rotor just like on the front. I meant then wheel bearing housing. so I add rotor/hub to the list of what is needed. The spindle, wheel bearing and housing, which is the trailing arm, are good to go, don't need to be swapped.

I am talking about a gen 2 car. Could somebody confirm this who has actually done it- It looks to me the parts needed to do the conversion are : calipers brackets pads and hardware backing plate. brake lines The spindle/wheel bearing/hub are all good to go and do not need to be swapped. Is this correct? I have sourced everything except for the backing plate. If anybody has a pair, please let me know. Thanks.

awesome, thanks Rob!

That would be great! Thanks

This is the one you are looking at. Note this: you can see above the bushing that the mounting surface has a notch. This is sometimes flat, depending I think on the year of the car. there are bushings that have the notch part on them. Since i can't find them, I have the flat ones in use, no problems. This is what the front bushings look like :

just looked at RAYBESTOS Part # 5501026, they are the rear ones that mount to what I refer to as "tranny mounting plate". thats the red part in this pic

correct on four bushing, two of each style.

I have a set 5 of the flatspoke "jackmans" for sale for $150 in this thread with pics: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/135287-fs-old-school-wheels-504-pugs-jackmans/?hl=jackmans These wheels are rarer than the wagon wheels, but are similar. vary flat spoke. we put them on an 86 wagon and they looked great. i'll ship if you need

Hoping somebody could post a rearr disc exploded view FSM style. this would be the gen3 RX, gl-10, turbo, etc. Also, the wheel bearing/ rear hub assembly diagram if you can. Are xt6 rears the same as the ea82T rears?

wow that is niice! good job.

Sorry I won't be able to do much till this weekend. The wiring diagram must default to a lower res when uploading to photobucket. Bets i can do for now is email you the original photos if you want to pm me w/your email. Did you want pics of the connector on the switch harness or main harness?

If tis a ea81 I have some I could part with. $10 for 2 of them plus the smalllest priority flat rate box. Check the dealer first to see if they still make them.

I did a major troubleshooting of almost everything electrical on these early gen two harnesses and I remember theses being different, as well as the light switches. Unfortunately i have since forgotton everything I learned. Here are some snaps of wiring diagrams from the two years you mention, maybe they will help. You should be able to zoom and trace. It looks alright on my end. These are from Bentleys manual. I have combo switches from an 81 as well as an 83 in my shed, if they would be of help, let me know I will try to help you. One thing I do remember is that my switches from 80 std and 80 DL did not have the feature where you pull the lever towards you to flash high beams. good luck 81: 82:

Two people have said run the power down opposite sides of the car. Is this so there is no buzz? Also does anybody know how I can determine amperage draw? Assuming I can't determine this, I will get the thickest wire i can find (2 gage?) for the ground and power, And what should I put in for a fuse? Again it is a 4 X 50 watt amp. Thanks.

How can i figure out Amp draw? It's a clarion A2000, also may go by EE-1009-AA, It was made in 1993 and I don't have a manual and can not find it on-line.

last weekend was a good one, I got my "hombre" fenders (don't ask) painted and mounted. They are the sacrificial fenders I will use to figure out where to modify. Once i am sure, I will give my nice fenders to a buddy of mine who does body work really well, and we shall make them work. Till then I will rock the hombre fenders. you can see in these pics there is more cut away from the fender than need be, and the seem in the wheel well that needed beating down. That seem lays down real easy, I bent it little by little with vise grips, then wacked it with a hammer. This set up now I have not had any rubbing issues at all with the swampers, I did run it up on an easy trail, but had to keep it in 2wd for the reasons discussed above. This weekend I will put it to a bit more of a test. Other than that, still lots of work to do, stop one leak at a time (a lot of leaks) and put an interior together. Skid plate too. Hombre!

It's not so much the inside mounting that is a problem as the new angles of the shift linkage. I remember when the car had a 3 inch lift the shift stick would slap the 4wd lever when you put it in reverse. (and on the ozified 3 inch lift the tranny was actually only dropped 2") now with a true 6" at the tranny, there is no way the two levers will share the same entry point to the car. And, with all that angle on the 4wd selector rod, It is extremely difficult to put it into/out of 4wd. Picture the linkage, on a stock vehicle the 4wd selector rod, which attaches nearest the tranny with a ball joint, sits almost horizontal. Now it's at a 45 degree angle or so, you have to use a lot of force to move it. Right now I have to get under the car to put it in/out of 4wd. I am thinking a simple joystick, mounted about where the stock 4wd selector sits, straight down through the tunnel, keeping the lower part of the selector roughly horizontal. that ought to do the trick. What did you do on your lifted wagon (do you still have that thing)? How much lift was on it at the tranny?

Thanks for the response. Do you run the wires down opposite sides to avoid getting a buzz?

I am going to put an old clarion 4 X 50 watt in my car. 1. What guage wire to use for the battery and ground wires.? 2. Do you hook the battery wire up directly to the battery, or do you find an existing hot wire? 3. What guage speaker wire is adequate?