the sucker king

That's so cool. Couldn't watch it all right now, but I love what I saw so far.

I should add that I think it is insignificant in the long run. Don't lose any sleep over it being hooked up or not

The ASV and PCV are completely separate systems. The ASV does not vent anything . People will tell you to get rid of it because it robs power or is unnecessary. Whatever. I don't notice a difference in power and it does help your car run cleaner. The most valid reason to block or delete it in my opinion is when you do the weber conversion you no longer are using the air cleaner box that it hooks up to and it's a cleaner look. That said, it is also the one piece of emissions equipment my 1980 is required to have and I am choosing to keep it.

The pipe does not feed the ASV. The pipe is the outlet.

You misunderstand what the ASV does. It mixes clean air into your exhaust to help oxidation of unburnt fuel in the exhaust. You can run yours up to your air cleaner or rig up a seperate filter them. Or leave them capped off. Be aware that the ASV makes a lot of noise without the silencers.

I forgot to ask if anyone has any nifty ideas for mounting the 4 wheel drive lever. either to work looking stock or i wouldn't mind a joystick situation

I had a company called "tubes and hoses" in Loveland, CO make these gorgeous brakelines Engine's down there somewhere When I say, "I don't think I'll have to cut the fenders at all" what I mean is " I will have to cut the crap out of the fenders for the swampers to fit". So for now Pat Davis sent me these gorgeous pugs witch I painted and mounted a set of 205/70/15 yokohama geolanders ( great tires I might add) and I will set out to experiment with a spare set of fenders I have, I don't want to cut these beauties I have on the car, but we'll get those swampers figured out, maybe I will swap fenders to run with the swampers every summer, something like that. Oh yea, pat's wheels with the geolanders: made the car run like crap but got tired of tinkering and ran her through emissions, failed first time, took her back a week later after I made her run nice and she passed, ran super clean in fact. Here she is at Longmont emissions And after mounting up a bumper, 3 inch lift in rear adjusted all the way down, 6 inch lift in the front, adjusted all the way up: She is plated now, street legal and I am back to driving her as I please, but will be an on-going thing for sure. Next up, I have to figure out how to make the swampers work, I would like to be able do run them with both front and back suspension adjusted all the way down. Also need to fix my steering extention. , which has a little wobble in it. Not bad or dangerous, but not 100% right. This car must be 100% right! I drove her up the canyon by my house this weekend, a paved state highway, first real test of the suspension on a windy road. it rides really nice, i am very pleased with the new front end.

yes just unplug it

you unplug the ecu. leave the canister in. I ran the out line of the canister, the one that went to the base of the carb into my intake manifold to keep the smog inspectors happy. I used a port at the back of the carb base that was originally for an anti- deisel valve on a 1980 model. That port may not even exist on later manifolds as the ADV changed or disappeared later on. you can just cap the canister line and it will run fine if you just want to tune the car get it running and deal with the details later.

unless you are actually talking about the trailing arm bushings which are the size of a film canister ( I just realized you might be talking about the main rear crossmember which also holds the rear diff. I think everybodies responses so far are in reference to the "mustach bar" which holds the rear diff from the rear). I don't THINK you can still get trailing arm bushings from the dealer.

X2 yes the dealer still has them, They are not the whole cylinder that you (theOP) are thinking they are, thay are just like a washer with rubber on them. 2 per side.

I know on ea81s the set up veried from year to year. On 1980 models it was actually an air injection system with it's own filter. It introduced the air to the heads rather than the exhaust. 1983 I think had just one ASV It was on the drivers side. 84 and up ea81s had one on each side. I have no idea about ea82s. Don't even know if my ea82 has one. I hate that car. I should look though, it's a carbed 86.

What car is that pic from? If it is an ea81, It is a silencer for the air suction system. most people just cap of the ASV when they do a weber swap. search ASV air suction vale weber I am sure you will find more than enough info, there are a few ways to plug it or you can leave it functional but know that it will make your engine load and farty sounding without those silencer/resonators if you leave it functional. If it is an ea82, I don't know those cars well, might be the same

I have used a yakima load warrior ( http://www.yakima.com/shop/cargo/gear-baskets/loadwarrior ) with the yakima round crossbars and I like it. Here's something unique I did though, This little luggage rack was an option on gen 2 hardtops and maybe sedans. They went on top of the trunk. I mounted it on the rear of my roof. What is cool about it is it looks cool, but also I ended up using it a lot to tie things to in conjuction with the basket. It also gives me something to slide a canoe on so I don't scratch the roof when loading it onto the crossbars. since I added the wing I may not be able to do that anymore though. Here is a pic

It could also be a broken axle.

"short end goes to the rack longer sleeve goes to the steering column" by short end and long end, I assume you mean if it were split at the rubber. In other words, the pic is correct, up side is up. correct?

how does it feel on the highway without a swaybar? I thought that would be scarey. rdweninger- it's high temp engine enamel (spray can). the stuff makes everything look new. I really like it.

The weather to weber or not question has come up here regularly for as long as I've been on the USMB and I'm sure it will continue for all time. i thought I would post these pics as I have them and they are a good reference. The answer has always been and will always be, Yes Weber is better. your manifold can look like this or this, this is the manifold that has sat on four different engines in my hatch As far as what hose you run where, anyone doing this swap really should study the emission controlls on their particular car. Get to understand them, where they are and what they do, then it all makes sense. It really is't as confusing as all those hoses would have you fear..You will plug what you don't want/need, and find ways to rig up what you do want. The two things most people keep would likely be the egr and disty advance. simple easy nice.

I got the engine in and then went about putting the suspension together. Hows this for a sexy front end? Strut assemblies all new except the springs, new axles, radius rod bushings are new, controll arm bushing and ball joints are new, new wheel bearings and seals Throw in new tie rods, new discs upgreaded to the vented ones (car always had the solid ones) and brand new calipers pads etc I was psyched to get it back on the ground, It came out kind of huge. I'm 6'2" and the and the hood is at a comfortable height for leaning on my elbow without bending over. getting in it feels like getting in a truck. Of course for everything you do you have something else to fix. I can't mount the exhaust. It is a one piece custom exhaust I had made to fit the car when it had a three inch lift in the front, now the exhaust hits the rear driveshaft, so I have to cut the exhaust just to mount the front of it and remove the rear of it from the car. Oh well, I'm learnin while I'm earnin. I thought this was clever, This is what I rigged up to pull the axle through the bearings without a proper tool All in all looks like the front end will be a success, as I don't think I will have to cut fenders at all to get these swampers to work. As it sits right now there is 15 inches of clearance under the engine crossmember, That may change as the car gets the rest of the stuff put on it, it will get heavier and maybe the suspension will settle some. The rear diff has 12.5 inches under it. That's cool. The car is pointing up in the front instead of it sitting level like I want. If it doesn't flatten out by the time everything is on, I will have to lift the rear another inch or two. I think the torsion bar is cranked all the way down right now, That might be enough right there to do it, If not I will probably rebuild the rear end in similar fashion to the front, maybe 4 or 5 inch blocks. A third option is to clock the torsion bars a notch, but i think that makes it pretty stiff. Anyone who has done that I would like to hear what your take is on that.

A friend of mine came into the shop two days ago and told me about this hatch he just saw at Superupair in Boulder. 56K original miles. He said they wanted $7k for it! If that is the case, I think it's not realistic. I do think a similar Brat could fetch that easily. Anyways I was in Boulder yesterday so i stopped by. Didn't really talk to anybody, but somebody there said it was from Superupair dealership on the other side of town and was in for some repair. Anyway very nice car, not my favorite color, but a rare bird for sure!

Interesting I didn't know that about the clearence issue. 1980 and maybe 1981 ea81 models did not have those spacers, they must have had a different bend to the y pipes on those cars that allowed them to clear the crossmember

For now this is getting a well used ea81, just to get it on the road and figure out my options. I want to put a built-up ea81 in it, but the one I had built for me was nothin but trouble. We'll see just how annoying this thing is to drive on the highway, maybe I'll go the ej22 route, but I do like the idea of keeping true to the pushrod era. So I got this thing it was one of the dirtiest motors I've ever seen, but not a lot of oil, mostly dirt and if you don't have a jug of purple power and a power sprayer, I do recommend! I am anxious to mount this so I can solve the steering linkage issue. Just didn't have much time this weekend. the polished turd:

I actually have a bunch of the early gen 2 electrical stuff. do you need the dashboard part of the harness, or the engine bay part, or?? Anything I have would not have the cyclopse stuff, but the dashboard GL harness is probably set up to plug in the cyclopse stuff. PM me if you want to persue that. I have all the electrical diagrams for that 80-82 stuff too. I don't think it's too hard to rig up the cyclops light without the harrness, there is a right up on it around here somewhere.