the sucker king

I think what the OP was referring to is that a lot of people get rid of the ASV system when they do a weber swap, as is does share the stock air filter on all cars but 1980 when the asv had its own filter. It's part of the "emissions mess" that many do away with. Also noahkort you might be confusing the weber-carter one barrel which came stock on some subies with the 32/36 weber which is the aftermarket one that people use to upgrade (this was never a factory carb). That said the first reply has good info. If your car has the asv system you probably need it to pass emissions if you have inspections where you live. There are a few ways to cap it off if you don't want it, I use rubber bar stool feet to cover the tube on mine and put on a homemade filter when I run it through emissions. or use the quarter trick and one guy here pinches of the tube down by the spacers if i recall correct You can get rid of those spacers if you don't need the system at all, but you will probably need to use shorter studs to mount your exhaust back up.

Anyone know what this is from? also which side goes up (toward the steering wheel) and which side down (toward the gearbox). Thanks, I aquired this without knowing it's origin and want to use is on an older lifted car.

I thought i rememberred talk here of an alternative to Pugeot lug nuts. This would be for the 505 15 inch alloys, the ones that "need" the pugeot lugs. Isn't there something else that would work?

Some of you might remember this car from this thread a couple years back- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113403-a-blank-canvas/?hl=%2Bblank+%2Bcanvas "give me the winter and I'll show you something nice" is what I said. In my defense I never specified which winter i was talking about. I actually did get this car running and plated last winter (the winter of 2011-2012). Then I had trouble with the engine and pulled that out, I figured while it was out I would go ahead and re-do the front end. I aquired some really nice super swampers and rims, but they wouldn't fit on the front (the car had an ozified 3" front 3" back lift) so I wanted to put 6" on the front. Here is the car last spring or so with the 3/3 lift, 29" swampers on the back on 15" wheels and the 14" wheels and tires that were on it before on the front heres a pic once I pulled the front end out, I hope to have the car sit level like this. It looks like the tires won't clear in the back, but they do. I bounced the car as hard as I could and becauise of the angle of the trailing arms, the body doesn't rub. If I find out differently when it's done, I'll put another inch or so in the back. With everthing out of the front I cleaned up the underneath real good, it's amazing how clean this thing is for being 33 years old I used 3m ruberized stuff to do the wheel wells properly as well as the undercarrage. here are some pices of the wheel wells cleaned up and ready to paint, gives you an idea of how clean the car is, usually this is where the rust is. Notice in the second pic you can see where I had to beat the crap out of the wheel well so the springs dont rub. So for most of the lift I basically imitated the ones that Patrick from ozified used to make, here is the tranny and engine parts of the lift I made and here is a close-up of the tranny crossmember plate with the lift blocks in. Like I said it is like the PK Davis lift except I made the front most two mounting points use one block instead of using two cylinder style blocks. This set up feels very strong, If I have any doubts I will have a brace welded in between the rear block and the front one. Notice the 3M ruberized paint, it is Awesome! another angle of the mounting plate and the tunnel Tranny mounted here's the engine portion and the engine crossmeber in. That's the steering pump sitting on the tranny, another upgrade I took the oportunity to do I put together two of these, all brand new except for the springs. A lot of people don't realize how much stuff is showing up on rock auto. and here with the lift blocks, which are early SJR creations. They are cast aluminum, I may try to make replacement from steel sometime down the road, but these seem nice. and mounted That's about where it is right now, I am working on the steering linkage using something that looks like maybe it came out of a wrx? It is like the legacy steering linkages I have seen, but with a thick rubber bushing incorperated into it. One thing that worries me is the axel may not clear the steering pump shaft. It barely clears right now with the front of the tranny resting on the engine crossmember. Once the engine is installed, it will bring the axels up a little higher and the inner boot may rub on the steering shaft. There will be no way to know until I put the engine in and see where it sits. Here is a pic of the area. That's all for now. any bright ideas on the steering linkage or axel clearence is welcome Afterthoughts- I just read over this post and should make something clear when I say "I made", I actually can't weld, cut metal, etc. I had these lift pieces made by a local welder who does nice work. Just didn't want to take credit for something I didn't do. So that's that Fun facts- This car was originally a 2WD car badged as "DL 1800 AUTOMATIC" truely one of the first gen 2 hatchbacks ever made and one of the first models with an ea81. It was the second subaru I ever owned, I am up to around 15 now. I bought it I think in 2001, converted to 4WD shortly after and then lifted shortly after that. It was my driver for 5 years and has now spent more time being built (or sitting) than driven during my ownership. Sat in storage once for 2 years! More to come as I get this thing rolling again. I have to get it running again to smog it as my plates are expiring and the town gives me spoob if I don't keep the tags current.

I soaked it with PB blaster for a while and scrubbed the cylinders with a green scotchbrite pad, does not want to clean up well. I have a rag soaked in PB stuffed in each cylinder and am letting it sit at least overnight. What kind of abrasive material is it okay to use in there, i need something tougher than the scotch pad I used but don't want to hurt the cylinder walls if they are not ruined already.

Attached is a pic of the one of the cylinders from my engine (ea81). This sat for over 6 months with coolant sitting in the cylinders on one side of the engine. Can this be fixed? can it be fixed without splitting the block? Please give me your input as soon as possible. I didn't want to try cleaning it up without knowing the right way to go about it.

Forgive the punctuation I am posting from my phone

I have a very stubborn tie rod end I ca nt get out of the knickle, I tried. Fork tool and a lot of grease got sqeezed out but it doesn't look like the boot ripped. My question is. If the boot is intact can you squeeze more grease into it and use it? I ask because the tie rod end is still stuck in the knuckle soaking with PBS blaster but if it is toast ill smack it out with a hammer, but I'll keep working at it if it can be saved

Thanks!

bump

I think I have one of those. It is stamped "ROTAL" and it is a 14" wheel. It's the only one I have ever seen, I don't remember how i got it.

I have good Navy carpet from a hatchback and also from a '83 coupe, front section would be good for any body style, I would sell it to you $40 complete set-up plus ship, let me know if interested.

1986 ea82 wagon I removed the AC compressor and replaced the alternator bracket with one from a non AC car. What is the correct belt configuration for the non-AC ea82? The car also has power steering. Do I ditch the adjustable pully that was stock? I don't have a ea82 manual of any kind, would somebody be kind enough to scan or snap a pic from out of a manuel of the two belt configurations for this car, with and without AC? Thanks!

thank you sir, I shall move on this first daylight

Jam a prybar in where? There are no real holes in the driveplate.

To remove the crank pully, there are no good holes in the drive plate to stick a screwdriver, what the trick to locking it?

Hey i'm curious- what was the number stamped on your cam? I tore down a dual carb engine and the cam was stamped "66". My 1980 FSM says ea71 cams should be stamped "51" but I don't know if gen one cams were different? Interested in what you found.

thats what i was looking for !

The first impeza "sport" hatch body style, ran what years?

Saw this at a junkyard on the back of a first generation Outback wagon:

Thanks for the info, rock auto list the same pump will fit specifically OHC and OHV on some of them so I guess they are just wrong.

Rock auto shows the same pumps fitting both engines. I need one for an '86 ea82 wagon.

on a gen 2 hatch, the rubber around the rear hatch glass

I want to buy an air compressor and need to figure out how big of a tank and how big of a motor I need. I don't do this for a living. I will use it for occasionally running an impact wrench or rotary tool. Occasionally I clean something with air. One regular job I would need it to be able to handle is this- I have a 1500 square foot work shop that gets very dusty, grows big dust bunnies along the ceiling beams. The easiest way to clean it is to cover everything in the shop and hit it with air with a wand. How big of a compressor tank/motor, and any models that you folks would recommend is much appreciated.

nope