the sucker king

vented. if you need some for solid rotors i have a good set and there are a couple sets at u pull and pay too.

Not painted.

So before I put these back in, what is a good way to really clean and flush these as good as possible?

Hey, I wanted to follow up with this: They came fully loaded indeed, Beck Arnley rebuilt. I think I paid about $47 per piece plus about $30 shipping. So for $130 -

Hey that is cool to hear, I was told and under the impression that you needed the crossmember to swap. I am surprised that the steering interface on the crossmember is compatable between gen 1 and gen2

anyone need these?

yes and that is the tough thing if you want to do what you suggest, you need a crossmember from a gen one car with an ea81. that would be an 81 brat, I thought they may have put them in 80 brats as well but I don't know. To do what you want is not difficult, but the parts to make it work are rare. The 81 brat crossmember or the "fat case" ea71 motor are both rare and you will need one or the other. ea81 motors and dual range trannys are not that hard to find, but you will need that extra rare piece to make them work in your car.

what engine does your brat have? If it is an 1800 cc, then you just need to find a dual range transmission from another subaru with an 1800 cc pushrod motor. If it is a 1600 cc engine, that's a bit tougher. you would have to use the bellhousing or just swap the whole engine from a later 1600 cc motor with the side mounted starter and the dual range tranny. I have heard there was a dual range tranny that mated up to the first gen subarus, but in 15 years of junk yard hounding I have never seen one. I have also never heard of anyone converting a transmission itself to dual range by swapping out the innards. If it is possible, you would need a donor tranny anyways, and at that point it would be a lot easier to just use the whole tranny .

what you are referring to is the adjustable ride height. In the fromt it is on the strut assemblies. two nuts (per side) can be adjusted so that the springs are compressed, therefore stiffer. The stiffer springs do not allow the car's weight to sit as low as they would when adjusted all the way the other direction. You will get at most about two inches on the front. These nuts are just below the springs. In the back, there is an adjusting nut on top of the torsion bar tube. i don't know how you access it on a brat, on other (4wd only) models it is under the rear seat through an access whole. You tighten that nut all the way and it cranks the angle of the torsion bar. I have never measured the height gain, but it couldn't be more than 3 inches I would think. By the way, you do this with the weight off of the end of the car you are working on (ie, put the rear in the air to adjust the rear.) And your ride will be stiffer as well as taller.

Yes those are them in the pic, I will try to get you off a better pic in the next day or two to show better the dish on the washers.

Also, they take some pretty odd lugnuts with a dished washer. If you don't have the lug nuts I can send you a pic of mine so you can get the idea of what needs to happen.

those will fit your brat, there are no fit issues that I know of, have never actually mounted them, but have seen them used on gen 2s. I have a set of five of these I wanted to sell or use myself, but I have since learned that they are hard to get balanced, as the center holes are not true center holes and are too small for modern balancing machines. I am planning on taking them to a machine shop and having bigger center holes drilled. I won't get to this for quite a while I suppose, and I would love to hear from you on how you deal with this if you end up using these wheels.

i should admit that I have never inspected the brakes on an 80 or 81 brat, maybe a brat expert could verify that the brakes did not change over on those models.

the brakes changed with the body style, 1980 for all models except Brat, which was 1982. some time in 1983, the gen 2 cars went to a vented rotor, and changed calipers again.

that's true. I f you look at the more expensive ones on rock auto, there are core charges. So the ones who are blowing them out are discontinuing them. I think there are gen 2 calipers on there for as little as $27.

No core charge and was listed as fully loaded. I agree with the poster up above, this old subie stuff moves slow and is taking up room on somebodies shelf. I really like rock auto, it seems that they are a network of warehouses, probably independant of each other. I have ordered a bunch of stuff from them in the past and had one order ship from 4 different locations. the amount of stuff they have for our old cars is amazing.

thanks for all the opinions, I ordered up a couple BA calipers, less than $100 plus shipping for both calipers, loaded with hardware, pads and even come with brackets. Damn that's cheap.

nice job. Did that car used to lve in Colorado? A couple years ago I saw a beat up black brat with green wheels in Boulder and Lyons

Rockauto.com has tons of remanned gen 2 calipers for cheap, like $40 and up. Brands like Beck-Arnley and Raybestos, which generally i like but didn't know they made calipers. Anyone have experience with these? I hesitate cause the price seems too low to be quality stuff.

That's what I want to hear! thanks

I could only get 8.8 in the length I needed, this would be for plates that hold the radius rods and tranny x-member. 8.8 good enough?

These links might help. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/3rdEye/using_center_light_w.htm http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/electrical/centerlamp-relay.pdf

they are very hard to find. Last new one I found 5 years ago from a guy on the east coast who bought and liquidated a warehouse full of glass. Only one he had. I think I paid $180 for the glass and $100 to ship. I might have a used one to sell, let me know if you want to go that route, but I can not move really fast on it so if you need it in a week, count me out. All this is assuming a gen 1 wagon windshield will work in a brat.

also shawn- do you know if right and left strut assemblies can be interchanged? It would seem to me that you mount the top in the right direction and you are good, but I don't know for sure

I'll rephrase- I have some inserts, I have several strut asembllies that I may use them in, both adjustable and not. these inserts are not the part thats welded that you referanced. They drop inside of that part. by inserts I mean the actual shock absorber part of the strut assembly. the only thing that could be different for the shock part between 4 wd and not would be travel, which I don't see why that would need to be different, since it doesn't look like the 4wd struts are actually any longer, they are just adjustable in that if you compress the spring, it is stiffer and your car will not sit as low on the suspension. anyways i don't know for sure if my inserts are for the adjustable (4wd) or not (2wd). I think the confusion is that there are aftermarket (kyB, monroe, etc) struts out now where the shock comes with the rest of it, and can't be removed, where I believe the original subaru struts were like a sleeve for these inserts.