the sucker king

And if you have a little money to sink into this car, consider an aftermarket weber carb to replace what came in your car. Will eliminate a lot of trouble.

backfire plus missing are most likely related. You are not firing sending unburnt fuel into your exhaust. You did wires plugs cap and rotor. Did you give the distributer shaft a little wiggle? If you didn't, do it and if there is any play replace it (a little up and down play is normal, you are just looking for side to side slop). There are several cars in Denver junkyards that would have a distributer for you. If that checks out okay, check your timing. The carb should be adjusted properly at the same time as timing, you want your idle @ 800 to 1000 when you set timing. Set your mixture first, then the idle, recheck the mix, etc till it's right. Then timing. I think spec for timing is +8 degrees, you can certainly go a little higher (10 or so). Then set the idle again if need be. That's where I would start.

Got it all back together last night and took a quick drive this AM, clutch holds great. The cable however, i had to put several washers on just to get it in gear. That quick fix will work for now, and i think I will make a bracket to hold the cable an inch or two behind where it currently sits. Other than that, I'm good. I wonder if a different fork would have been the ticket for the cable issue? Thanks for the help, GD, after I work the kinks out of this we should put this on the USRM. It seems like a cool mod if the end result is a superior clutch for ea81s. I've got some pics to right it up proper style.

Another thing to note is that the timing marks are off by like 7 degrees on the ea82 flywheel, so it is important to paint on some new marks

I hope the 3 mm difference will not effect how the starter mates up!

So my parts came on time and I didn't get very far before i hit my first snag, The flywheel rubs on the bottom of the bellhousing, and I don't have the tool to grind down the bellhousing. So tomorrow I will have to buy or borrow a proper grinding tool. Here are the two bellhousing side by side, The one on the left is the ea82 that i am using, it was marked as being from a 91 loyale. The ea81 flywheel is on the right. It is about 3mm taller over all, but the problem is how the teeth on the ea82 flywheel start 3mm more toward the crank, causing it to rub, see second pic Third pic is where I will have to grind away This is like the third time in about a week and a half I really could have used a good grinding tool so I should just get one. I have $120 credit at EZ Pawn

actually the 70 ones used a needle bearing set into the crank not to be too demanding here, but what about that .815 number, the guys at the machine shop said the step for a loyale should be .827.

also pilot bearing appear to be the same for ea81 and ea82 flywheels, is that correct?

and when I picked up my flywheele to take it to be machined, there was a spent p-plate from a loyale stting in it, so I was able to compare it to mine. I feel comfortable now that I have an ea82 p plate

The guys at the machine shop shop said .827 on the step, was .815 (mentioned above in your previous post) to accomodate a difference in disk thickness?

Alright the Nissan throwout bearing is on the way, I am going to pick up a flywheel and drop it off to be machined. Should have everything by the end o day. My only concern is- Is there a way to double check that the p-plate I have is indeed for an ea82? Does anyone have any measurements I could take to verify? One other afterthought is there is no problem with the stock cable for my clutch with this new set up? Not worried about the .1" difference in step, just want to be sure that the flywheel wall is not drastically different in thickness and my cable won't max out either way.

oh and thanks for the help and goodnight.

Alright this is food for thought. For now I am going to bed pizzed off and will lnto these options tomorrow. Just to clarify GD- you have DONE this with the Nissan throwout bearing and ea82 p-plate ON AN EA81 WITH A DUAL RANGE 4 speed tranny and it is a better set up. Correct? This is not something that you have just measured out and "it should work according to my calculations", right? I am not doubting what you say, I just want to clarify that you have done this and it works.

Yes, BARELY touches. It's a sachs kit, and the P plate is labeled SC475 , which is the right plate for an ea81 (as best I can research), so maybe it is labeled wrong. All that other stuff is good to know, but easiest for me at this point to just replace the wrong stuff that I have. I'll ask my parts guy to seek out the Exedy kit. Any others? I've used beck arnley and sachs in the past without any issues.

Okay I got it out and I measured the step at several places around the flywheel and have measurements ranging from .905 to .913, with .909 showing up the most frequently. I am assuming that 3/1000 to 7/1000 of an inch too deep should not be enough to make the clutch slip this badly (or am I wrong?) and the p plate must be bad. I suppose it wouldn't kill me either to get the flywheel properly turned. Any more comments?

For the record- I had my guy check the specs and .906" is correct. I'm pulling the engine tonight and we'll see what's going on.

GD where can I double check your memory on the step of the pplate? My FSM and Bentlys does not have it, and I would like to actually measure it out when I pull it.

ea82 PP? anything is possible. It was all one kit, and the throwout bearing was for an ea81. I did have to send back the first kit they gave me though as it was for a ea71 or a 2wd ea81. So a ea82 pp would bolt up? what about the disc?

ok I managed to hook up with the dealership, I put a new cable in and as I suspected, it aint that. And I should clarify- I can do more than a crawl with the car, but when I punch it it slips-badly. But I have been able to take it on the road to drive it. So- I did NOT have the flywheel resurfaced, I just cleaned it up with a rotary tool. Is "step" the measurement from the front surface of the flywheel (the crank side) to the mating surface (clutch side)? So in otherwords if a flywheel was resurfaced too deep, The step would be a lower number than spec? Is it then a fact that too many times resurfaced renders a flywheel useless? I do not know the history of this flywheel, if it is the one that was on the engine that I gave to the rebuilder(never had problems with that one), or if it was swapped for another at some point. Where to go from here- I guess at this point I am pulling the engine and barring evidence of oil leaking out the rear main seal (I have had this happen before and it felt about like this), next step would be to measure the step of the flywheel. If the step is correct, get another clutch kit. Does that sound about correct? and for what it's worth, with a new cable installed to the point where the pedal felt right, there was about 3/4" cable beyond the locking nut. I also backed it out to about 1/2" showing and had no pedal at all, had to grind it into reverse.

Yes, clutch is in correct. Above post is correct, it can't really be put in backwards.

Newly rebuilt ea81, brand new clutch, it slips. I let the cable out as far as I can and can barely get it in gear to test drive, still slips. I rechecked the pressure plate bolts, all torqued to 11 lbs. I do have a new cable waiting at dealership, probably can't pick it up till Monday, but I don't think that is the problem. I can't seem to float the gears on this thing, can anyone instruct me on that, would be good to take the cable off and drive it to rule out the cable. So if the cable is good, p-plate bolts are torqued proper, is there anything else to do before I pull this motor out? Only other things I can think of is rear main seal is leaking or the p-plate/clutch is a bad new unit or somehow the throwout bearing is not sitting right? Any advice before I pull this thing, I am very frustrated with this.

not married are you?