the sucker king

That would be called "Auto Theft"

I have tried Naval Jelly and Klean Strip Aircraft paint remover and neither seems to eat away at that chrome. Can anyone tell me something they have had success with?

or throw an SS badge on the back of a chevette and offer her an even trade.

I know the 4wd and fwd tanks are different, but does coupe tank fit a hatch?

What I am really waiting for is somebody to jump on here with "Holy Crap that's the bumper I welded 25 years ago!"

that's alright, in general my jokes aren't that good.

It's also green.

It was a joke, see it was followed by pointing out that it was a fence post.

Spare tire mount- best idea ever!

I am cleaning up a rear bumper to paint and put on my hatch. This came off of a 1980 4WD STD Hatch. There are two holes that look like mounting points for a tow bar or something. Check out the gnarley construction of this bumper- I can't say for sure if this is stock or if somebody rigged this up (I THINK it is stock for the 4WD hatch bumpers of that year). It looks like a steel fence post! Those receiving nuts are 19mm and about 18 inches apart. They are not actually welded to the bumper, those washers under them are free spinning. The fence post is welded to the mounting brackets as well. does anybody know why those two bolts are welded in there? They don't seem to do anything but attach the nuts to the fence post (gotta love the shade tree lingo). Weird because the bumper brackets they put on 2WD hatches in 1980 were much more substantial, they had an extra mounting point about 6 inches into the car instead of the surface mount you see here (and I do know that was stock difference). Anyone know anything? I figured Subaru made a snow plow, maybe a tow bar too. And just so nobody suggests it- these are NOT the holes for the rubber bumpers that came on the same bumper.

wow you guys are good!

Would be awesome and save me a lot of worry. Thanks!

Solved! and this is all pretty interesting. First off the car is an 80 DL that I put a 81 GL harness (front and middle) into. The problem was that the headlight switch was from a 84. Although the harness connectors are the same and they will plug in there are a lot of differences, some subtle some not between 80, 81, 82, and then the later 83+ light switches and combo switches. So I got the right switch and lights work as they should now. Also regarding those mini harnesses, what TomRhere called a headlight fuse kit - here's the skinny. They were a recall or repair item found only in 80 and 81, when they had issues with the lighting wires overheating and continuously blowing fuses and even melting the wiring. These harnesses were how they fixed the problem, which was then corrected with proper wiring by 82. The second picture of one that I posted was from the 80 dl and it went between the engine harness and the dash harness. don't know where the fuse end goes. The one in the first pic of the post goes between the light switch and the dash harness. Also don't know where the fuse end goes. I tried different comboes of hooking this up before I found that I needed a different switch, And all I did was blow a couple of fuses. Now that I have the right switch in, I will try these in the places they came off there perspective harnesses and see what happens, right now both are uninstalled and everything works as it should. However I will need to have the headlight fuse kit in if I want to avoid trouble in the future. The fuse box from the 81 gl harness by the way, does show some signs of previous overheating on the hot light fuse. It was bad enough to start melting the plastic fusebox case. What would REALLY be handy here is if one of my fellow Subaru geeks had the old supliment to a 80, 81, or 82 FSM that might have the instructions on installing the wiring fix. I have a 80 FSM, but my guess is it would only be in the supliment that came out in 80 or 81 or 82. For those that have never seen them, the FSM supliments were small (compared to the FSM) manuals that came out after the FSM that would have corrections, additional info, etc. Thanks all for the help, much apreesh.

oh and one more thing, I don't think it will be a problem to get it smogged (I assume that's what DEQ is?) with the egr hooked up but plugged. In the long run i think you want it to function though. A more stealth way to plug it is with electrical tape over the opening on the valve, then slip the hose over it.

okay, i get what you are doing now, at first it sounded like....never mind. If you have the egr hooked up at idle, does it run like crap? and then when you pull the line does it go back to smooth? I think the egr should be 100% closed at idle, so if the vacuum at idle is opening it somewhat, we could only assume as vacuum increases it is opening way too much. Whatever the case, I would just put a different (functioning) egr on and see if that clears up the problem. I know that is not what you want, purchased new they are expensive and at junkyards they are often broken. You can usually tell if one is functioning by removing it and sucking on the hose with the valve in view, you'll see the valve moving. Just an afterthought, when you changed the valve, did you clean out the manifold behind it? There is a ton a carbon deposit built up there, I wonder if a chunk broke loose and has got the valve stuck open? Good luck and Merry Christmas!

I don't quite understand, You have the port on the carb plugged the look official, but you are openning the EGR valve with a vacuum pump- for what reason? Did you actually try driving the car with the egr hooked up and the screw removed from the port on the weber? If you were opening the EGR while at idle, it should run like crap. The EGR is only supposed to open at high vacuum- say you are cruising at 60 and take your foot off the gas. If you were just revving the car to see how the EGR is working, you were still not creating high vacuum, and the egr should not be open. It probobly ran like crap because you were opening the valve manually when it should have been closed. I would drive the car with the EGR hooked up and see how it runs. I don't understand what you are trying to do by blocking the port on the carb and then opening the EGR manually? If you are going to smog it with the EGR capped (and I don't know why you would) Why do you care what the EGR does when open? It will remain closed unless you take that screw out. Or maybe I completely misunderstood what you are doing?

This piece I found with another harness would seem to complete the fuse case, but I have no idea where the connectors would plug in:

and some more electrical Q's - what is this timer for? It is mounted in near the driver's left leg And this relay mounted under the dash next to the flashers:

I installed a harness from I think an '81 GL into my hatch, can't get headlights to work. Fuses in fuse box are good, Here is what the connection to the headlight switch looks like: The wires that leave this little mini-harness and are spliced as seen in the pic are apparently supposed to go to a fuse: The end of that wire is always hot. Where does this go to??? does the combo switch need to be mounted proper for the lights to work? right now it's just hanging, I didn't know if maybe it grounds to the steering column

and I forgot to say.... Welcome back!

Thanks for very complete answers indeed. So If i want to convert to vented, I need calipers and brackets. Part of the reason that I ask is years ago I had pulled an axel from a junkyard car and it did not quite work, the outermost part of the stub was not the right length, and when the axel was installed there was still in/out play on the wheel. I checked and double checked and triple checked and eventually matched it up to other axels I had used and it was not the same. I always wondered if this was due to it coming off of a vented rotor car, but i am leaning toward the JY car had actually the wrong axel installed or a rebuilt axel with the wrong spindle used by accident. Do you know of any reason one ea81 axel would be different from another? I understand 4wd drive and Fwd axels are different, but it is my understanding that is just the diameter of the main shaft and that all though not the same, they are interchangable I would still like to convert to vented regardless, I have warped some rotors in the past, I do a lot of mountain driving, and even the best mountain drivers are on the breaks more than flatlanders

At the first adress you turn around and there is a nice outback sport and at the second adress you look up the street to the left and there is an rx coupe!

Is there any difference in the component parts of ea81 solid rotor brake systems and the vented ones? That is, are the calipers, pads, hubs, axels all the same or at least interchangable? Furthermore, what years/models got the vented rotors and what got solid? Any difference in performance? I imagine the vented rotors stay cooler and are therefore less prone to warping? lastly, are the rear discs from ea82 era cars the vented style?

No worries my wife calls me sarcasmo. What year/model etc do you have and what exactly are you looking for- some more details could get you your answers

seven.