the sucker king

Is that the stock set up? What year and model is this?

Agreed 100%. I have to admit I have never had a hitachi that was operating at 100% but the simplicity of the weber ids part of it's beauty. If a correction needs to be made, the weber is super simple. The tunability is supreme. If you are so incline to throw one on an ea71 I say give it a shot and I am betting you will love it.

I have never seen different manifolds, the ea71 carbs and ea81 carbs use the same bolt pattern, I have used manifolds from 77, 79 and 80, never saw anything different, and mounted webers on them all with the same adator. And as far as a weber maybe too big for a ea71, they run GREAT with webers. They are smooth and hassle free carbs. maybe there is nothing wrong with hitachis, but webers are better.

If you are talking about old datsons (510 etc) they do NOT fit. The adaptor for ea71 is the same as ea81. I tried lining up the old datson pattern and they are not close enough to use on ea71. ea82 are different, so the datsons may line up with them. dunno.

SVX models had a viscous type too. don't think that was mentioned.

Well that sucks. I'll install it and see what it does on ice. Tex- all the ones I've seen have stickers that say VLSD or LSD for the clutch type. Like I said though, I am not familiar with the new school.

I think he meant aren't all soobies limited slip. No they are not. it was a very rare extra on old school cars. I don't know the new school stuff as well, but ther is plenty of info on the boards you can search LSD and VLSD

woops. I was referring to the rest of the post I guess. which you didn't read I guess.

I asked why would it be left in the diff in one circumstance and on the stub in another.

what year/car is this? Just curious. it looks like ea81 but I have never seen those connectors.

Why does the ring clip stay in the diff in the pics in the link and in my pic it stayed on the stub? bork- VLSD stand for viscous limited slip differential. The nifty thing about a vlsd is where a normal rear differential will supply power to whichever wheel offers the least resistance (ie the wheel that spins on ice), the vlsd transfers the power "from the wheel that slips to the wheel that grips".

Hmmm. I thought the steelies I tried were from an ea81, as the guy who gave them to me said they were off a brat, but maybe they were originally off an ea82. I think the H alloys are of the ea82 era as well, but I'll see if they fit anyway. I'll see if I can find some desidedly ea81 wheels and give them a shot too.

Okay I did this today and thanks for the advice. I found installing the rocker arms to be a complete PITA. The pushrods did not want to stay in the lifters and it just plain sucked. Would be a breeze with the engine on a workbench. the lift kit doesn't help, less room to work with and the holes in the frame for the long bolts don't line up. A good mirror on a long handle and a little bendy light made it possible, but not fun. Seriously, thanks, I would have botched this without you guys advice.

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Solid lifters I am told were modified by delta. The pushrods were unlike any I've seen, was told they are the late year hydro pushrods. they did not have the caps on the ends like the others I've seen and no knurl marks. This is still my biggest fear, time will tell.... So anyway, here's where it's at- So I got it running again. I re-torqued he heads, replaced the damaged pushrod and rocker arm and adjusted the valves on both sides. Fired it up and let it run for 25 minutes or so. After a few minutes the valves got noisy, but that doesn't worry me so much as I don't have that much confidence in my valve job, having just reinstalled rocker arms on both sides, the pushrods are hopefully nicely seated now in their new homes. I'll readjust the valves and go from there. With it running now, I can take it down to my shop (I rent an industrial space for my business) and park it inside to work on so now i have weeknights to work on my car. How do I check this? ................

That is not the air suction valve. It is a silencer or resonator. the ASV is contained in a rectangularish metal case further down the line from the resonator. just so you know..... BTW I have that resonator if you need it.

forgot to give some details on the leak down test. i could hear it in the crank case and in the intake, I couldn't listen to the exhaust. fixing all the valve issues should take care of that, but what about the air i heard in the crank case, do you think only having run for an hour the piston rings aren't seated propper yet? Also the engine was cold.

Unless aluminum H rims will fit, I 've got to find something before I get her sold. Sucks cause in the last couple years I sent at least 8 gen 1 steelies to the melting pot. I didn't know, I thought any gen 2 wheel would fit.

Thanks for all the suggestions, First off forgive me I work slow, the car is outside and it's winter and gets dark early, really I only have weekends to work on this. Did a leakdown test and the results were horrid, 45% leakage on the two "good" cylinders and 65% and 75% on the two bad ones. today I took the valve covers off and crazyeights is our winner, a pushrod jumped ship. The pushrod was damaged and the cup on the rocker assembly was damaged too. The damage was not the reason for the failure, but the result. valves all need adjusting on both sides too. So I got a replacement pushrod and rocker assembly and will put it all back together in the morning, then adjust valves. Hopefully up and running again. Why did this happen? Again this is a fresh rebuild, read first post. Did a valve come so far out of tune that the rod popped out? If the cam grind was wrong I guess this will happen again.

Thanks for the advice uber I shall give it a shot in the morning.

A few years back I found a 91 turbo legacy in the junkyard with only 60k on the odometer. I looked under the rear end, the vlsd was still there but missing a stub axel. I opened the trunk, and low and behold it was there. I don't know if somebody removed it so others wouldn't take the diff before they could get to it or what, but I took the diff and the stub. Now it's years later, and I want to use it. Here is a pic of the stub: It has a ring clip on the diff side, visable in the pic. How do you put this back together, am I missing anything, etc? Years ago I downloaded an exploded view of a VLSD but since lost the file. anyone? .................

Thanks, figured it out. It's a "feel" thing. Generally they stay in place as you install the rocker arm?

When installing pushrods, with the engine in the car, I can't tell? ea81.

So let me get this straight- to retorque heads you can: remove the two rocker arm bolts remove rocker arm and replace with two sockets used as spacers. replace rocker arm bolts torque all the head bolts in propper sequence remove rocker arm bolts replace spacer sockets with rocker arm replace rocker arm bolts torque rocker arm bolts. This is acceptable?

Was that the same problem, ie the trailing arm?