the sucker king

I recently tried to put ea82 wagon wheels on a 77 4wd wagon only to find on the rear they wouldn't fit because they hit the trailing arm. The other wheels I had also would not fit, I think they were ea81 era steelies. Anyone know what my wheel options are for this car? I've had jackmans on it for years, and am about to sell it and I want to keep my jackmans

How to do this, I understand the procedure is different from solid lifter engine, how so? I understand that you are not supposed to have to adjust these. but still they need to be set proper initially. Also I did a search, nothing doing there but a dead link that surely would have answered the question.

I'm thinking more along the lines of an intake valve is staying a little OPEN. That would explain both low compression and the backfire through the intake. Why this is happening is the other story and then also why the second dead cylinder?

I think part of the problem with how this thread is going is that people read the title and backfire through the carb = ignition timing or wires. But if you read the (entire) initial post, it suggests something quite different.

I apreciate the help, but please ubderstand the problem. The car ran Great for an hour. Like a finger snap it ran bad. The ignition wires are routed proper. The cap and rotor are like new. The compression is bad.

Again low compression seems to be the key here, but the leaky intake valve thing is where I am with you, It ran fine at frst. My worry is if a valve bent slightly that could explane the backfire, but now why two cylinders? I am just kicking around ideas, what if the cam was not ground right and it took out two valves on two different cylinders. Does anyone know how the temperature of the engine effects the compression test? All I can do to get it to running temp and retest run it is let it run on 2 cylinders, but is it okay to let all that fuel get dumped into the one and two cylinders without burning any off? Don't want to do any further damage. I would pull the wire on the number one so it didn't backfire the whole time.

I thought that at first when the timing was suspect. Now the real concern is low compression

I had an ea81 built for my hatchback with delta cam and ea71 pistons. I got it in and it ran great. I ran the motor, did not drive the car. I tuned the carb and timing by ear, never revved it above 3k. After I ran it to get it up to temp for maybe 20 minutes (this was the next day afer I got it running), It purred like a kitten for 20 minutes and suddenly went from purring like a kitten to running like crap and backfiring through the carb. This happened in an istant. It was a rythmic backfiring, Like one cylinder repeating. There is a total of probably a little under one hour of running time on this engine, Zero miles. Today I tested compression. These numbers are cold, as I didn't want to run the car for twenty minutes with it backfiring twice a second. 1. 90 2. 100 3. 120 4. 125 I am also at 5500 feet altitude, and should expect around 10 pounds lower than nurmal, but these numbers are way lower than the 125 to 175 than HTKYSA manual says is normal, especially when you figure in the ea71 pistons. I also put a gun on the timing and set it to 8 degrees. pop pop pop still. A little additional - just went and started the car and pulled the #1 wire, the backfiring stopped. with that wire still out, I pulled #2 and it didn't significantly stumble, so it's running on just the two. Any thoughts on what happened?

Okay, we are not talking about the same ring. I see what you are saying. Yes that ring needs checked if the leak is between the engine block and the plate. In your second picture you can see how there is a plate about a quarter inch thick held to the pump with a single screw. What I am saying is if the leak is between the plate and main pump body, You have to seperate the two and there are 2 more o-rings in there. And yes there should be a gasket where you are speaking of (between the engine and the pump. If you don't have one, you used sealant, and you would know better than I if it works just as well.

Follow my advice instead. The rubber ring uberscoober speaks of is the O-ring I spoke of. There ABSOLUTELY SHOULD BE A GASKET behind the plate, Which should be considered part of the pump. Be warned that sometimes oil pumps don't want to come off. Maybe someone else can give advice on removing a stubborn fuel pump. I am not very good at it.

The 'block' you speak of is part of the oil pump. I will call it a "plate" to avoid confusion with the engine block. The oil pump has a "plate" between the main body of the pump and the engine block. If Your leak is in between the plate and engine block, You need to remove the oil pump and replace (or in this case just put one on) the gasket. If the leak is beween oil pump and the plate, You can remove the pump and then remove the plate from the back of the pump and you probably have a bad o-ring in there. There should NOT be a gasket between the plate and Oilpump body You mentioned a pulley which your oil pump does not have, If you are leaking oil from around your crankshaft pulley, that is a different story.

PM me with your email and I can send a pic, but I assure you if you have a 1983 subaru, this is the part you need. As far as price, $10 shipped sound good?

80w/90. I have a pitch rod too if you want it.

The new dizzy IS in and wired straight to the coil (hard to tell in the pic). If I get rid of the resistor pack completely, what do I do with the black and white wire from the harness? What does it do? Are you saying I CAN'T run this as is?

The harness and ignition coil in my car are of the 80 - 81 year model variety. The stock disty has a three way connector that plugs in to a connector that comes out of the ignition control unit thing mounted on the top of the coil. This connector is circled towards the top of the pic. I need to replace the disty and the only solid one I have is of the 83 + variety that has the two wires that mount directly to the two positive and negative terminals on the front of the coil. Can I just hook it up with no other alterations? I am a little concerned because in addition to the positive and negative leads from the main harness to the terminals on the front of the coil, there is a black and white wire from the main harness that connects to the resistor pack on the top of the coil. This is the other thing circled. Can I run this set up just like it is in the pic?

What was the gear ratio on the LSD? Hey Knewsubiefan- You are gonna have to figure out posting pics, cause you just can't leave us hangin' here! Did you look to see if your rear differential has a LSD tag on it? gear ratio should be on it too.

Very cool. was this a Japan or Europe thing only? Where did you get the pic Turbone?

Search function is awefull on this forum. What is an ea81 RX? besides this motor was it anything different? standard ea81 hardtop coupe body? Do tell!

According to My 1980 FSM, 1800 cams are stamped with the number 72, 1600 cams are stamped with number 51. I pulled apart a dual carb 1600 engine and the cam is stamped "66". Does anyone know anything about this cam or this engine based on the cam #?

but there are some benefits to leaving it hooked up, There has been many posts on the board on this topic here is a good one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15379&highlight=weber+afterburn

Yep. those are them.

I am In Lyons. I have 4 subes ranging from 77 to 86. Hi TJ, I bought some wheels off you years ago!

No not the pre-heater, I am talking about the two ports next to the carb hole (just to the drivers side) on the manifold left empty when I removed the anti - afterburning valve. I can post a pic tomorrow, or if you are feeling curious, look in an ea81 FSM in the engine section they have a digram of a bare bones manifold. You'll see what I mean

and the two ports right under the carb, are they just vacuum to be capped?

got it. thanks for the explanation. and yes it apears to be in contact with the coolant channel.