the sucker king

Thanks for the tip, but OUCH. Over $300 bucks. Craftsman has a slide hammer for 30 bucks, if I could find a hook small enough I would be in bussiness.

I want a wrist pin tool, the expando-slide hammer type. Not interesed in homemade. Does anyone know if of snap on, Mac, or cornwell etc has one. Product # if you have it.

I've got some complete gen 1 doors I could pull one and send it to you for cheap. could get it out this week. Fishin' guy are ya? PM me if you want it.

That's a great parts sight, thanks for posting the links. I snooped around and am very surprised at all the stuff you can still get there for gen 2 cars.

Has anyone ever done it? How? Any Ideas? just to clarify, there was no stock power steering in any gen ones, was there?

Are these gaskets for an ea82T?

No, the gen 1 water pumps are different. I think your suspicions are correct, and the 1980+ ea71s look like the same as an ea81, not quite sure if they will actually bolt up, but they won't bolt up to the gen one cases. That is for sure. You need one that has a round outlet that points towards the rear right? I have several if you want I can send you a known good one, was on a running car three weeks ago. $5 and you pay shipping, but you're in Seattle, probobly won't get to you till the end of the week. PM me if you want it. or if anyone else wants one, like I said I have I think 6 of them.

No it won't, The ea81 (the brat) has just a shock, no spring. Unless he modified it to take the ea82 suspension, which some folks have done.

Thanks for the advice, Here's what worked for me and It's simple enough, I put a punch on the base plate from under the car. Once the base plate came loose, the pump came out without much fuss, And I think the pump can be salvaged. The reason the pump needed to be replaced is because it was leaking badly between the body of the pump and the plate. the two pieces are held together by two screws, which had worked quite loose. It looks like I can replace a couple o-rings and put it back together. For a replacement pump, I tried to remove the pumps from two other engines I have and they both had the same issue. I have one more to try tomorrow and if that one is the same, I will have to just try to refurbish one and go with it. Oh boy..... Since this would seem to be an issue with the ea71 pump, would it be a good idea to use a little locktight on the screws that join the pump to the plate? Unfortunately ea81 pumps won't fit a ea71.

I didn't notice anything other than what was on my other cylinder heads.

all four bolts are out. Anyone got a trick?

That is a 32/36 dgev and it should be stamped at the base of the carb. For the most part, you should cap the loose ends. Your picture is kind of small, I can't really see what you are pointing out.It looks like you have the timing advance hooked up, It doesn't look live you have the pcv and valve cover/air cleaner hoses rigged up. Go to post #27 in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95483 and rig them like the diagram McBrat drew up. If you post a bigger pic I could be more helpful.

I can wiggle it, but it won't come out. It is wiggling between the base plate and main body of the pump. If the base plate stays on how do I get that unstuck? Any tips? It's a 77 ea71, engine is in the car. P.S. HTKYSA says tap it each side with a mallet. Done that.

her ya go. This is from September 80 FSM

Actually I forgot, There is one other uber-hidden bolt. Look on the #1/#3 side of the block. In between the cylinders and just below them: see the recessed bolt? betcha that's it.

Make sure you have removed the bolt that held the oil pump feeder tube on the bottom of the crankcase. It joins the two halves. The case can be tuff to separate even once all bolts are out.

Thanks for that one. What diameter hose did you use for the middle piece to join the two sides?

I have one here and did what you asked, there is a little knock knock (sort of a double noise) twice every rotation. I would use it.

The 1980 models don't have that pump under the car.

yes, just one filter. What body style is your car, I'll send you a scan of the entire fuel system.

There is just the one by the pump. I'll confirm that in the factory service manual, but I've had 3 1980 subies and I only know of the one.

the scan from FSM that I posted was from 1980. I just checked a manual from 1978 and it shows air being pumped out of both valve covers, however there is no pcv valve on that diagram, both sides go to air cleaner. Another possibility? If air injection valve is stuck open, could that be another source of air going into the crankcase? The air injection is routed into the exhaust ports of the heads, but could wide open valve be introducing more air than heads can pump out, and the excess ends up in the crankcase? What about EGR valve, it is capped from weber conversion. Do I need to look into this? I have run other rigs this way with no consequence. Could the carb itself be to blame? That is, is the weber pushing more than engine can handle? Do I need to look at jetting? If some of these suggestions seem off the wall, I am just looking at where else there is air flowing into the engine. Maybe it would help if I snapped a photo of the setup and posted it? I suppose I still have lots of investigation to do, eventually with the help I am getting here, we will solve this. On a brighter note, the frustration I am having with this car has gotton me to work in earnest on another car, work I have put off for far too long.

No not 100% sure, but taking hose off of pvc valve, Valve is sucking and air is pushed out of hose prtty good. I have that stock F fitting on there, will clean it all out tomorrow. What else could this be. two engines now have had this problom with common manifold and exhaust. going crazy over this. As far as testing the system intact, I should be able to pop the air cleaner and stick my finger over the fitting to the 1&3 hose in the air cleaner box, and it should be functioning, correct?

just occured to me, If Oil cap is not sealing air tight, Is that drawing in air That would otherwise be drawn into 1&3 valve cover? just a thought. Still, if that were the case, It would also aleveate pressure in the case. So frustrating, I want to huck the car in the river.

To get the full page size, I just scanned it at 100%, uploaded it to photobucket and used the img tag. I don't quite understand what you are saying, but the bottom line is I have abnormal pressure building up in the crankcase, and the air does not seem to be moving as this chart from the FSM says is should. I think the two are related. If you are saying that it will only flow like this if everything is hooked up, at the very least I should be able to pop the air cleaner and put my thumb over the hole to the 1 & 3 side and it should be sucking, right? This I haven't t done, but will. Read the text over the picture as well, it will back up what I've been saying.