the sucker king

No why do you ask? Yes that is correct, thanks!

Alrighty I ordered up a 120 grit for the rust and a 240 grit for the finish. I found this online, anyone know what our subaru cylinder sleeves and piston rings are made of?

okay I did some more research, 3 3/4" is the correct size, now the only question is what grit, I found these from 120 to 400 grit, I have one cylinder with some corrosion, how course do I need to remove rust and what grit should be used to finish it? Please anyone with personal experience let me know.

the wire wheel type tools for this are the ones I am looking at. ea81 cylinders are about 3.5" in diameter. Do you buy a 3.5" tool? I would think you would want it a little oversized? Also I see them in 240 and 320 grit. So what tool to get? here is a link to the style of tool I am looking at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLEX-HONE-TOOL-GB31224-Flexible-Cylinder-Hone-Bore-Dia-3-1-2in-240-Grit-/221544692867?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339517bc83

when I say spun, it rotated some, probably less than an inch.

It looks like the cylinder sleeve spun. What do you do at this point in splitting the bloick? What causes this and can it be fixed? Is this block not a good one to rebuild because of this?

The mustache bar bushes are still available at least in the states from dealerships, like suggested before, you might want to try asking for an earlier year model, like an 84. The trailing arm bushings are no longer available here, but I used front control arm bushings and they fit just fine. They are all over ebay, and maybe from the dealership too.

Can anybody recommend specific tools for honing the cylinders in ea71 and ea81 engines? I see tools on ebay run from $10 to $150. What do I need to do this, I've got a ea81 block to rebuild with minor corrosion in one cylinder.

that font would imply gen 1.

Fantastic!

I have used it quite a bit too, I like it. I have run it in the gas tank of a legacy, I don't know if it effected gas mileage. I have also at least three times on various old subaru pushrod motors used it like this: I pulled the spark plugs and pored a little in each hole, let it sit for a half hour and then cranked it with out the plugs to clear the cylinders. put the plugs back in and started it, it blows a lot of smoke for a while, which I take to be a good sign. I really like it, I've done this and would do it to any old engine or any engine that has sat for years. never noticed a negative.

I thought of that but it would not account for the ignition timing, that gear is on the crank.

oh and el freddo- would you beleive I don't have the stock tool kit? this has definitely made me re-think what I carry with me.

the plot thickens, I haven't worked on this much, I still drive it, Like I said before it if fine around town, just sounds weird and is lacking power. I've been second guessing replacing the engine for now, so I just checked timing, and it was way off, retarded. It was spot on 12 degrees advanced before it was hydrolocked, and ran like a champ. So I set it to 8 degrees, which is as far as I can advance it without re-stabbing the disty. It got the power back, still sounds wierd though. I have to repeat this- It sounds smooth, but different. I'll have to drive it more to see just how do-able it is, but it did scoot right up the hills by my house. when this all happened and I was trying to restart the car, it made horrible noises. clacking clunking you're ruinning your engine noises. I wonder what happened in there. I will tear the engine down when I do pull it and see where the damage is. the bigger picture is this- this car needs a tranny, so I was thinking since i have a good tranny and ea81 engine at my disposal, I would just take a weekend and swap them both. But in the long run I want to put a 5 speed and ej in it so I am thinking if i can make this thing run decent enough, I'll just drive the hell out of it AS IS for the rest of the summer while I collect the tranny and ej parts for the swap. The bad tranny is fine to drive, it's just noisey in reverse. So that's what I am thinking I'll do, So any guesses what happened, why did this event alter the timing so much?disty gear is on the crank, but should not have had any extra force from the water in the engine, or is there something I am not getting? could the crank have twisted somewhat so it is no longer the same at the front of the crank where the gear is?

You know by what transmission you have. The smaller disc goes on any 1600 and 1800 with 2wd trans. the larger disc goes on 1800 with 4wd trans.

screaming is usually the throwout bearing, was that a new one as well? The common mistake the auto parts stores make with your vehicle's is to send you a loyale era clutch kit. The throwout bearing is totally different looking. If you got a kit with no bearing, you might not notice the mistake and install it. It fits, but won't work right. i had this happen and the clutch will always slip if it is the wrong disc/pressure plate. But it didn't make a screaching sound. that is definitely usually a baring issue. I am wondering if you got the wrong clutch kit (installed one for loyale) and are using your old throwout baring?

here's an update, no water in oil, engine appears to be shot, I changed oil and tuned it up, it still ran funky so I did a compression test, which showed barely any compression on all 4 cylinders, don't quite know what to make of this, as I thought I would find a bad cylinder or 2. My guage is a cheap simple one, but american made Lindy brand I think, I have used it before and trusted it, but this time all four cylinders barely made the thing jump. Like I said the car actually runs smooth, not like misfiring but lacking in power and sounds a little cheesey. Would a car even run at 25 psi compression on all 4? It scoots around town just fine, you have to put your foot into it, and I won't even take it up the mountain at this point. Anyways, i was planning on a trans swap next weekend, now I will do a engine swap as well, so no big deal. A couple lessons learned- Biggest one is Tools! I always carry tools, I did not have a socket capable of pulling spark plugs when this happened. i will re-evaluate and rebuild the tool kit that stays in the car. One question for you all- what would you do with a carberator that chugged a lot of muddy water? I guess i'll do a rebuild before I put this on the new engine. But I don't know that it was comprimised. I doubt the car would run as good as it does if the carb was clogged but i dunno? It's a weber.

around 5: 30 tonight I stalled my ea81 in deep water and hyrolocked it, we got it out of the water and eventually I got it started again, I did not pull plugs, just kept trying to start it and eventually got it going. I drove 50 miles home and it seemed to run good but with a very noticable loss of power going up steep hills. clutch seemed to be grabbing, engine would bog down. Barely got it up one steep hill in 4-low, was a hill it would have gone right up before. produced white smoke from the engine bay when going up, I didn't pop the hood to see from where, dark was coming I was trying to get out of no mans land. All hills on the way home were a challenge. I got home just before dark so couldn't work on it when I got home, but plan to in the morning. any suggestions? probably would start with pulling plugs and cranking it. For whatever you make of this, when I say it ran good but with power loss- It sounded smooth, not like it was missing, but a different sound than normal, like a different pitch. wife called it a lawnmower sound When I got back to flatter land, It runs good, I don't think I would notice the difference driving around town. any help, much apreesh

thinking of it yes. so many low mileage EJ22s in the local junkyards. I've seen a couple low mileage EJ18s recently as well.

anybody know the horsepower of EJ18 EJ22 and EJ25? or any others for that matter.

This is interesting to me, I assume you did this in Aurora? Check this out- My 1980 just missed the 25 year rule before it changed, so it must have changed at a different time in your county, Aurora sits in three different counties, do you have to register in a certain county? After the 25 year rule, they went to a 1977 cut-off for the collectors plates. I'm curious if you need to do emissions and how often. up here in Boulder county when it was the 25 year rule, you had to pass once and only once. then renew your plates every 5 years without re-running emissions ever again. if you got in on that, that's cool.

no worries, no offense. and yes it seems like CO is a pain in the arse for the emmisions in the liberal counties. Im in Boulder County

Skishop says "Per the EPA, vehicles over 25 years old do not require emissions" Not sure what you are getting at, EPA doesn't set the state laws on this, I'm just letting Colorado folks know what the new laws are here, and I am telling you that in the counties in Colorado where emissions are required, a car 25 years old has to pass emissions EVERY YEAR, a car 32 years or older can get collectors plates and needs to pass emissions every 5 years. 75 and older are exempt from emissions altogether. This is the way it is now in the state of Colorado. No matter what the EPA or California says.

The old 1977 rule is gone. The new rules are as follows- 1975 and older are emissions exempt and qualify for collectors plates. Cars 32 years old or older back to 1976 qualify for the plates, and need emissions every 5 years. The cost for the 5 year collectors plates was equal to about 3 years registration for regular plates on one of my cars, plus I will save $60 by not having to run it through emmissions for 4 years. Couple more notes on this- Emissions is only done along the front range as far as I Know, West slopers and plains people are probably exempt altogether, I think 1982 and older qualify right now, but check on that, as I don't know how they calculate the 32 year rule, but the point is every year from here on, a new model year will be eligible. and last but probably most important- YOU HAVE TO SIGN OFF THAT YOU DO NOT INTEND TO DRIVE MORE THAN 4500 MILES A YEAR IN THE CAR! For the most part, this is good news for gen 1 and gen 2 owners who have been wanting collectors plates for whatever reason.

97 outback ej25, 3000 miles into a 4000 mile roadtrip we had a check engine light, pulled over and checked it with a scanner, "PO420 catalyst efficiency below threshold (bank 1)" cleared the code and the light stayed off the rest of the trip. Not really worried about it at all, the car just passed emissions, it's good for another 2 years in that respect, and it runs good. Just wondering what the cause might be.