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the sucker king

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Everything posted by the sucker king

  1. does anyone know if you can still get this part from the dealer?
  2. are the rubber top pieces the same on ea81 front wheel and 4 wheel drive struts? that is, can you use the rubber from a front wheel drive strut to build a four wheel drive strut?
  3. thanks a lot. that makes sense with what bratman said too. thanks again!
  4. hey would somebody mind measuring the distance between brackethole on either a gen one or two? i wanna put this up for sale but would like to know what it is for sure before i do. like i said, they are 22inches on this one. thanks.
  5. thanks, hag. if you wouldn't mind measuring the two it would be great. the seat i have has the leather look (kind of like reptile skin?) so i'm guessing gen 1? actually the headrest has that finish as well.
  6. actualy i never used anything but the rubbery gasket before and didn't have priblems. i did use a little hi temp silicone on the bottom for the water preheat issue.
  7. what exactly is an anaerobic sealant? what i mean is what substances would work?
  8. i'm putting a weber on my wagon and need to replace the gaskets on either side of the adapter. the ones i used before were kinda rubbery and pretty stiff. they came for this application and i assume are the thing to use. i have three kinds of gasket material i can cut new ones from, one is rubbery but seems almost like straight up rubber, like a thick piece of innertube. not as stiff as the ones i'm replacing, but just as thick. one seems like a cork and rubber composite, i don't think that is the one to use. the last is sorta paper like, brown in color. seems like it would be good to use, but i worry about it being too thin. the rubbery one seems the most like the ones that i had on before, but i didn't think rubber was what you should use there. any suggestions?
  9. if it helps, the holes to mount the slider on are 22 inches apart. this is one of the differnces between gen 1 and gen 2 i believe. anyone?
  10. i am trying to clear out a bunch of crap and i have found a brat jumpseat and headrest. i probobly got it at a junkyard. i want to know if they are from a gen 1 or gen 2. are there any differences in the tube frame? i read recently on the board that the headrest slider is a different length between the two gens. can anyone give a measurement? did any of these come with out the grips? i think these were cut, but it is a very cean cut, looks stock.
  11. for the most part cars are worth more to them in parts than a junkyard car would be worth whole to a consumer.
  12. i believe this is the real issue i had. never had it before, but i am sold. i have remeasured everything i i believe this disc should work even with the difference. it should not bottom out on the shaft. i'm gonna leave it alone for today. probobly monday after work i'll give it another go. thanks again all for the help.
  13. thanks for all the suggestions. i just got back from the shop because i just couldn't leave it alone. "all parts are correct" i said. never take my absolute statements to be true. i pulled the p plate and clutch disc out (for the second time) and the new disc has a slightly deeper "hub" for lack of a better word,than the old disc, so it is physically impossible for this shaft to pass into the bearing by a 5mm difference. this may not be the cause of all the trouble, because it seems like the shaft should at least be getting started in the bearing before it is prevented frombolting up. at one point it seemed almost mounted far enough, so i suspect that i have two problems, one being the incorrect disc, and the other being that as mick suggested i did torque the plate down before mounting the tranny and during some attempts it was not passing through the splines. but i did rotate the flywheel during this ordeal quite a bit, so i dunno.... how little space do you think it is possible to have between the tranny and engine bellhousings WITHOUT the splines on the shaft lined up? because it seems like i was too close for that to be a possibility, yet too far for it all to be blamed on the 5mm difference in the depth of the hub? if you think it matters this is the 77 wagon. either way i am a ********************* for being careless when i first compared the old disc to the new. i checked the diameter and made sure the splines fit and thought all was good. i'm done for now and will probobly be waiting till monday for a new disc. i have put trannys in before and never had it be this big a deal. a day of my life i can't get back. good thing i'm not an NFL fan..... (but i did watch iowa state vs. kansas hoops for two hours! great game, but like the tranny job, the wrong outcome.)
  14. thanks turbone but i did all of the above. anyone else? it really is not going. i don't get it. a clutch alignment tool of the same size as the shaft fits in fine.
  15. i'm trying (as in all day) to get the tranny mounted into my 77 wagon. the main shaft will not go into the new pilot bearing. all parts are correct. my mechanic friend says it's a common problem, i've never had it happen. what do you do? there is about a 1 inch gap all the way around the bellhousing.
  16. there were rumours of a rare gen 1 centerlamp here on this sight. i think moosens might know something about it if i recall?
  17. and does anyone have the part number? should you replace this whenever you do the clutch, or only if it's making noise?
  18. i have 2 of the center caps i think 1 of which is usable but cracked he he i said but crack
  19. i have a few pictures of that car, i'll look for them sometime.
  20. his board name was magnificent subaru. whatever happened to him?
  21. it looks like there are two different styles of caps in the pics. the one in the back is the more common one. both will fit on a gen 2 wagon wheel or stock steele wheels, but you might need the plastic rings for the wagon wheels.
  22. i've seen 2 of these at junkyards in denver over the past 5 years. one was at sidewinder the other at cap. have any of you denver guys seen any gen 1s at any of the junkyards lately?
  23. i thought you could take the heater assembly out w/o pulling the dash. guess i was wrong. i was following the fsm instructions and like a dummy i didn't think that the "instrument panel" meant the dashboard. but she aint budgin. i do want to pull the whole heater unit out as it has a leak and the blower stopped working so i want to test everything and put back in a good functioning unit. any advise? i've pulled 2 gen 2 dashes and they are a pain in the nutz. tell me this will be so much easier. i did notice that the top bolts are easier to get on than gen 2s.
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