the sucker king

it will only work right when it's all hooked up. you are right both sides will blow out when you pull both hoses. put it together and don't worry about it.

Can't top that.

you can get them fronm these guys: http://www.centerlinealfa.com/

drivers side goes to a three way fitting with pcv and air cleaner, see in this pic, the air cleaner hose is much smaller diameter. pass side is just straight the air cleaner.

no the hatch glass has to come from a hatch. The doors swap between hatch coupe and brat, but not the glass.

yeti i just put xt 6 seats in my hatch. We used the gen 2 sliders rather than modify the mounting points on the car body, It came out okay, there is a little play (diagonal wiggle) in the seats which I don't like, If I was in a hard impact I imagine the seat it more likely to detach from the floor. You could check my set up out and improve on it.

fair enough, sorry for the bad info.

so you will need the drive shaft from a wagon, IDK if a sedan driveshaft would work, they would probably be hard to find anyway. you could look up part numbers for the body styles to see if any interchange. I know brat and hatch will not work in a wagon

you didn't mention what body style your car is. You will need a driveshaft from a 4wd of the same body style. Also what crazyeights said above is rigth on

if you changed a motor and trans you have all the skill you need to do this. This swap was the first major subaru project I ever did, and overall it was easy. The pedal clusters swap out as a unit, they mount the same, so the holes are all there. That part I remember was a bit of a PITA as it was awkward working down there. The reason the car was parked was rust. Well look at it, is it really rusty? too rusty to drive for me meant holes in the wheel wells and my car would take on water. I've also seen them dangerously rusted out at the top of the strut mounts. These manual trtansmissions are pretty tough, I would use it if it had less than 250k. I did kill one at 290k . check that it's got gear oil in it.

throwout bearing is bad

The title should say pops out of REVERSE not neutral, I can't seem to edit the post title!!!!!! I had a friend with fabrication skills work on the shift linkage on my lifted hatch. Ever since I got it back, it has been really loud in reverse and pops out of gear (in reverse only- all the forward gears are normal). It is not a matter of the linkage binding or being forced out of gear, it seems to be internal. I can hold it in reverse to keep it from popping out, but if the stick is left free-floating, it pops out into neutral. Not necessarily anything my friend did, the timing of the issue could be coincidental. Any guesses as to what happened?

vacuum leak will lean it out, not run rich. A comment you made in one of your previous posts about the timing- If I were you a would put a gun on it, I don't know what that advice means about old cars and stretching, as in, stretching a timing belt? No timing belt on your car, a timing gun is the most accurate way to set your timing. Or at least confirm it will confirm that you did a good job when you tuned by ear. If I were you I would do this- fix the minor vaccuum leak you reffered to. then set the mixture screw 2 full turns out from all the way in. Be careful not to turn it in too hard when you find the all the way in possition, you'll bugger up the pointy end. Then back the idle screw out so it doesn't make contact. Start the car and it should run like this, only really chugga chugga like. Low and super slow. If it won't start like that, try moving the disty around to find a spot where it will. If you can get it to run like this, then turn the mixture screw in till it stumbles and dies. back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. set the idle to around 800 rpm. then set the timing with a gun. In that order.

if the mixture screw doesn't change anything, that implies a vacuum leak.

http://www.semproducts.com/bumper-coater-aerosols/

by "spring piece" are you talking about the outer arm? Bentleys does refer to it as a "Spring Plate" but I took that to be a discription of it's function more than any special qualities the metal had. I thought the torsion bar itself is the only thing doing any twisting or springing here.

Well over the weekend I soaked it and heated it with map gas I tried to punch it out and I tried to beat the plate off of it. It didn't budge, so today I took it to neighbor and heated it with acetylene and put it on a 30 ton press and nothing wouldn't budge, The plate started bending in the press. This particular bar came out of a complete rear assembly that sat outside uncovered for a few years, I think the rust has just gone too far. I have two other complete rear assemblies, one that I pulled out of a 150k car and kept it indoors since pulled. This is the one I was going to clock and install in my car, but I didn't want to molest it until I had the junk one completely apart so I could see the problems, etc. Then I have the rear end assembly that is in my car, which I don't want to molest for obvious reasons. Don't know what I will do from here. As I understand torsion bars, they are super heated while being twisted to give them the qualities that they have. You might be right, I wonder how much heat it would take to ruin the temper, so to speak. Other than that, there is not much to ruin, the spring plate is just a steel plate, I don't think there is anything special about it. The bushing is rubber and the heat ruins them for sure, I have new bushings from the dealer to use on this project. Yes this is true and it may be the way I end up going, I like the idea of the precision you can tweek the ride height by clocking both ends, and the manuals say you can do it so.... one way or another I'll eventually make something happen. I would still like to hear from anyone who has had one of these completely apart. I may take my spare rear assembly and try to remove the spring plates off of it, maybe its not rusted solid like this one was, and maybe I will have better luck trying to remove it from a complete assembly by prying away from the tube with the adjusting bolt tightened down.

Bratman, this post confuses me. I want to know how you disengaged the OUTER.In your first post in this thread you said you did that. But here are you saying you clocked the INNER? You say it will accomplish the same result. But it doesn't. There are a different number of splines on the inside than the outside. So it does not move them the same amount. What exactly did you do? Sorry for beating a dead horse, for some reason the communication is not flowing so easy on this one.

hi I replaced the missing pics in the first post, maybe that will help us get back on track. remember that the ones I am trying to seperate are not in the car and in this state. I will put a flame on them tomorrow.

are you talking about the inner end? I am talking about the outer end. If there is a lock bolt on the outer end holding the arm to the bar, that is my problem. once again to be clear, I CAN'T SEPERATE THE OUTER ARM FROM THE BAR ITSELF.

yes the plate I would call the outer arm. It does come off, that's the whole point of clocking them against each other, inner and outer splines, you clock the outside one way, the inside the other, the spline counts are different so you can customize the amount of lift. I just cant get the outer arms off and don't understand why. probobly rusted on these ones.

here's the stuff from the manuals, as I see the pics are no longer showing in the first post. so to refresh our memories, the idea here is to clock both inner and outer splines to create the appropriate lift and softness in the rear. first the FSM then the Bentley's info I think these should be good enough to zoom and read. So I have the two tosiion bars with outer arms still attached from a junk set up. till I seperate those I won't mess with my other sets. This weekend I'll really try to do something, heat it and beat it.

I also wish there was more progress, but what can I say? I'm slowly getting my interior together and in the meantime I drive the car as is. If we keep this discussion alive , I suppose I am more apt to work on it here and there. So look- nobody ever addressed the question in my last post in this thread (look at the paragraph just above the pic)- I still don't understand how you seperate this piece. The one on my bench sure as hell doesn't want to come apart, I am wondering how those who have done it while it is still in the car get them seperated.

I have this console piece for I think a 2wd manual gen 1 and this pass side lower rear tail light from a 77 wagon (a little different from a 78 - 79 I believe. They are about to go in the trash, so somebody please you can have them for cost of shipping.

I don't know about the races, but the rest of the parts you can buy new or re-built from rock auto for dirt cheap. Not as "a package", but all from one website, "one stop shopping"