the sucker king

I am curious to see how you make use of the stock rear locations, is that still your plan? I have a cool idea to furthur improve what I have going, and that is to find a pair of 4" drivers- just woofers, like you would find in a good bookshelf speaker and mount them in those stock holes. run them off of a second amp. I'll bet it would make a big improvement at low to normal listening volume to have that bass boost. I don't need big subwoofers- I don't listen to anything that would benefit from that. Let's face it- if you are high enough that dubstep sounds good, you shouldn't be driving.

I think it's a hard sell. Most people aren't going to pay $25 for a 40 year old economy car that needs a ton of work (and it does need a ton of work. It has been parked for 10 years). But then there is us- we see value in these things, but we're a bunch of tight asses too. I would pay $500 for the rust free shell. Not because I think it's "worth" that much, but because I know how rare it is and I want it. Did that make sense? We talked about this car years ago Zeke, Do you really think it's worth a three day round trip road trip and a lot of work to turn a few hundred bucks? I would do it, cause I want one, but it doesn't make sense as something to do to make a few bucks. just sayin. But if you do end up getting it, let me know and maybe we can work something out. Moosens - not trying to cut you out, I'll step aside to your dibs, something tells me you would do a bit of all-right with this car!

i'd put the junkyard motor in it. If it runs good then your done. In the eyes of if I was buying it- if it ran good I wouldn't care where the engine came from.

The axle is meant to be pressed through the knuckle, so there is nothing unusual here, I've had them go in easy and I have had them go in hard. The above mentioned tricks are good. You just want to be carefull not to bugger up the outer seal. Just to throw another log on the fire, here's how I did it: You don't need the air tools, a socket wrench will work fine (although the air wrench makes it a lot easier). you add washers as needed to get the spacing you need to draw it through. and the screwdrivers can be replaced by the inanimate objects of your choice.

Hey Yeti- That's an awesome hatch, I missed this post the first time around. Cool to see a sweet gen 2 hatch in this area. Love it! Funny to see this come to the top because of a stereo, because I too am in the process of wiring my gen 2 hatch for sound. Please don't take this as me trying to steal your thunder. Nay, consider this a challenge! It's the Rocky Mountain Gen 2 Hatch Rock-Off!!!! Here's what I have going so far. A year ago or so I put in this head unit and polk 4 x 6 speakers in the stock dashboard locations. I have to admit I am a novice to car audio, but I am somewhat of an audiophile with my home stereo. I am a huge fan of Pioneer in particular, mostly because of all of the receiver/amps I've owned over the years, the one that has stuck as a staple in my home is my 1975 Pioneer sx-850, a wonderful sounding and beautiful looking solid state gem. Anyways- back to hatchbacks. I bought this stuff: the amp is 4 x 60 watts the speakers are 6" x 9" One benefit I have is that I don't have an interior in my hatch right now. I have a complete interior pretty much ready to go in. I am thinking thatI don't want a back seat in my car, instead I'll set it up for my dog to ride in. It seems those side buckets in the back are a good place to stick the speakers without cutting anything. I figured I could set them flush and only cut the plastic buckets, but for one I don't like the idea of the magnet getting that close to the body of the car (these are really beefy magnets, I am psyched to hear these speakers they seem to be built really well) and speakers should not be pointed at each other, so here is what I am thinking- I removed the buckets from the interior trim and made two of these- and used some steel tubing and rubber bushings to mount the speakers like this- So they will be aimed at the middle of the front of the cabin. Couple changes I will make- the tubing needs cut to half length, as the speakers don't need to stick out that much, they just need to clear the lower quarter trim and there is still room in the bucket to set them back without the speaker touching the uncut bucket. And I will fill the bucket behind the speaker with insulation. Should sound great, I am really impressed with the quality of these speakers. Have NOT heard them yet, but they are obviously well built, the cones are made of some space technology obviously stolen from intergalactic visitors. They are gorgeous. To hold them in your hands, you can feel the awesome. Your move Yeti, let's get these hatches rockin!

I should add that I do think this guy was the allied armourment guy and the design is the same.

Not Allied, they were made by Smith's Outfitting. Bought them from this thread where there is a good pic : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127733-15-custom-wheels/?hl=roswell&do=findComment&comment=1086957 The guy from Smith's Outfitting posted on this forum once, posted that he had 4 x 140 wheels in stock and his number. That was 2011 but it's worth a try. name is Albie Smith (360)903-3801

No web site. It is a town.

It's a mountain town in Colorado, USA. It is a very nice place.

I checked my caliper, It indeed has a R on it, passenger side. Let me know if you need it.

Very Nice. Did you find that in Buena Vista? I have a ton of parts in Lyons (Northern Foothills) if you need anything let me know. what I got- http://s133.photobucket.com/user/suckerking/slideshow/gen%201%20parts

if it turns out you need to replace the caliper, I have one for sale $25 plus shipping I THINK it is pass side, I'll post a pic and you can confirm.

I have a pair, A couple people have asked for shipping quotes, but I have not come across a box big enough to fit them so I can get it quoted. Online the ups site kicks back a very high estimate that I don't really trust. Send me your zip and I'll keep you in mind when I quote them. Also do you have a business address to send to it will be cheaper. I am asking $100 per piece for the fenders, but would knock it down a little if somebody would take both.

check that, bend is to the REAR on the curved part.

like above post they are most definately side specific, but the bend is to the FRONT.**EDIT the curved part is bent to the rear, I was looking at it wrong

sorry 4 door

drivers door is the one I don't have. don't know what you mean by trim. I have the door cards to all four doors. In fact the tan door cards pictured are the drivers door cards

i realize that does not neccesarily mean that a coupe and hatch do not share the door glass, like I said I never tried to swap, but my understanding was they do not.

So is mine. there is no proper b pillar on the coupe, there is just a gasket that attaches to the rear (or middle if you will) side window. see pic below

coupe doesnt have a b pillar at all, it is a "hardtop" as they say.

actually I believe the door glass is different between coupes and hatches as well. Maybe somebody who has swapped them out knows different, but that has always been my understanding

I notice you don't have timing belt covers. Is that okay?

never heard the coupe was different either. do you know this first hand?

clarification on what miles said- door glass is different, but I thought windshield is the same?

"It's cool that Subaru built-in places for aftermarket switches." I think these spots were actually for a couple factory options such as the cyclops light and cruise control. but can be used for anything. The switch in the pic is definately not stock. I would look to see if somebody added a fan or foglights, but really it could be anything that broke at one time and was rigged up. Maybe enen corrected later and is just a ghost switch that is better looking than a hole. Like somebody else said, trace the wires if it doesn't do anything when you flip it.