Marmaduke
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Just as a heads up to everyone, the radiator hose and new thermostat seems to have fixed the issue. Here she is after her first trek off pavement with me. Just headed into the hills to do a little shooting. -
Okay... I see what you're saying. Thank you for the advise!
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I dunno... Is it? And I am definitely shopping around.
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Got the car back from the mechanic. Total bill was $307.31 after tax for the thermostat, radiator hose, coolant, labor, and an oil change. He said he test drove it and the problem was fixed, so I'm feeling okay with what I paid. As far as the other issues go, I was told the following: -Timing Belt: Looks like it was done around 100,000 mile mark. Will need a new one soon though (currently at 170,000). He said the cams are leaking. Total quote for all of that looks to be roughly $1,000. -Right front Half Shaft (CV Boot) plus labor would be about $300 after tax. - Steering rack with labor and alignment would be another $800 after labor and tax. ---------------------- What I'm for the car so far: $3,400 + $300 taxes. Registration good for another two months. $300 for oil change, thermostat, and radiator hose. So that's $4,000 total. I'm going to try and make it to Costco tonight for tires. I was quoted $411 installed for the cheapest set, but will probably go up a notch for my piece of mind. That'll be another $500, bringing me up to $4,500 total. It also needs new wiper blades, reverse lights, fog lights, and brights. So That'll be another $100.00. I'll eventually get her completely put back together. Looking to commission in the Navy soon. So I'll drive this into the ground and then hopefully be able to finance something decent. (WRX).
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I believe they are the same size/diameter. I'm still getting a new set put on. I will be driving this car over chains required mountain passes multiple times in the upcoming months and would feel better with everything matching.
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I'm not one hundred percent sure what is wrong with it. I'm picking up the car around 1400 PST today, and he said he'd go over everything with me. I'll get all the details on everything. I've also got it set up to take into another mechanic next week for a second opinion. I'll probably get new tires put on tomorrow along with getting the alignment done. When I bought the car, I was able to get him down in price a bit as one of the tires doesn't match the other three. So I'll be getting a new set on it. Don't want to jack up the AWD system with different tires, not to mention breaking/steering potentially being an issue. It just sucks as three of the tires were at 70% tread with the mismatched one being at 40%.
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Mechanic said it would be cheaper/easier to do whole axle than just boot.
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Thank you guys. You're making me feel a bit better. If I can get good directions, I'm sure I'm capable of doing some of it myself. If all the steering rack is going to do is affect the power steering, then oh well. I don't care about that. I'm more concerned about quickly wearing through tires. I think I may do the CV boot, and wait on the rest of it.
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Not sure what test he used, but he said as far as he can tell, the HGs were done.
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Sorry for double post, but I though I'd update as the mechanic just got back to me. As for as the cooling issues go, he found the following: Bad thermostat, and lower radiator hose leaking. Upon further inspections he said the cam seals are leaking bad, which would be fixed by a new timing belt/water pump. He said it has a bad CV boot, and needs a new steering rack as well. All in all, I was quoted $2916.00, but he says the car should run for another 100,000 miles. What do you guys think? I'm looking at being $6400.00 for the car at that point. I'll know it'll be good, but that's a LOT of money. Should I cut my losses and sell it, or invest? On the plus side, he thinks the HGs are good.
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The car is at my mechanic right now. If it's just the thermostat, I'll make sure they use OEM or the highest quality after-market available. I am usually leery of mechanics, but trust this guy and they warranty parts and labor for 12 months/12,000 miles. I'm in the process of moving across town, and it's already stupid cold and dark by the time I get off work so I'd rather just pay for them to do it.
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The car cruises at 80MPH right around the 3450 RPM range. At those RPMs, the temperature gauge stayed at at just under a quarter. When I downshifted to pass traffic, I revved it up to roughly 5500 RPM and literally watched the temperature gauge plummet to almost bottoming out on cold. Got back to cruising speed of 80 MPH, 3450 RPM, and the temp gauge slowly worked its way back to a tad bit under a quarter. Granted I was driving over Snoqualmie Pass (Washington State Cascades), and the temperature was probably around 3º F, I've driven over it in colder wx with no issues on different cars. As soon as I got onto country roads, doing 40MPH at 2500 RPM, the temp gauge worked its way back to half and stuck there. Driving the car around town in normal conditions, the temperature gauge stayed right at halfway; no issues. Didn't matter if it was idling at a light, accelerating normally, or cruising at 25MPH. I should also add that the car sounds healthy. There's a little bit of a rattle, but I think that's coming from whatever aftermarket exhaust is on the car (there's K&N stickers, but that may just be air filter). The ONLY time it smelt a tiny bit hot is right after I bought it, I hit the redline in third gear. But the temperature gauge was normal, and the smell lasted maybe 3 seconds.
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Hey everyone, thank you for the replies. I dropped the car off at a mechanic I trust this morning, and am waiting with my fingers crossed for him to tell me it is NOT the HGs. I knew buying the car I'd have to throw some money at it, but I've been praying it's not a HG issue. How much did you all have to spend? I've been quoted anywhere from $1,200 to $2,500 for them to be replaced when calling around.
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Do you guys think that the car would have made it to 170,000 miles with a blown head gasket? I know those are problems on the 2.5s, but that seems like a lot of miles to travel on a blown one. There is a newer plate where the head gasket is, so it looks like it has been replaced. Replacements will typically outlive the rest of the engine, no?
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Hello all! Just bought my first Subaru. It's a 1998 Legacy GT Sedan (5speed) with 170,000 miles. I'm having a really weird issue with it... The temperature seems to be inversely related to my RPMs. When they go up, my temperature goes down. After buying the car, I drove it around 120 miles home, and found that at highway speeds 70-80 MPH, at 3400 RPM, the temperature gauge was a little less than a quarter of the way up. When I "punched it" to get around traffic, I could watch my temperature gauge fall to the C almost as fast as the tach went up. Once I got back on country roads, cruising in 4th gear at 35-40 MPH, the temperature gauge sat nicely at halfway. Outside temperature was was 9º F. Adjusting the heater didn't really seem to help (obviously wasn't blowing hot air when temperature gauge was down). I am really puzzled by this. Although mechanically inclined, I am by no means a "gear head". I'm thinking it's either an issue of too much coolant, something with the radiator, or a thermostat issue. Any suggestions on where to start? I know it's a little cold outside, but not cold enough for the car not to run where it should. Also, should I be worried about damaging the engine by it running cold? It was only at the bottom (cold) for maybe 5-8 minutes before at least returning to a quarter temperature. Thank you for any help!