Olyroller83GL

What transmission does it have? I need a dual range 4x4 in good condition.

Got it in a pile of old soobie parts. It has the Fuji symbol also 7 II R stamped on the bottom of the ball joint part. It seems pretty much new. Anyone know what it is?

Sweet.... Thanks everybody. I’ve decided to let it ride!

A dowell of course! Thanks. If I can’t find one, how about a nut and bolt with two aluminum washers through the block, gasket, and head?

I was about to install the right head for the #1 and #3 cylinders on my barn find ea81 and I noticed there was only one mounting stud (I don’t know what they are called) while the left side has two. Are they all this way? Should I just let it ride? Also I’ll need to know what it’s called if I am going to find one and drive it in. i put an ear plug through the block where I think the mounting stud should be. Thank you all in advance.

The engine was stored without the intake manifold and there is Almost no rust or corrosion anywhere. The previous owner said he squirted some oil on the cylinders a couple decades back to keep rust down. Should I stick with 10w-30 or maybe use a detergent type oil for the first 1000 miles?

My 83 GL threw a rod and I picked up an EA81 just like the one that finally quit on me. It has 50,000 original miles on it but it has been in a barn for 25 years. My question is, besides resealing it and replacing everything rubber what else would I need to do to get this motor back in action? Should I replace the components with the ones that were in service a few weeks ago? That’s the original alternator I’d like to use it. Thanks

It was the neutral switch on the clutch. Also I found the first connector between the positive battery terminal and the fuseable links was loose which was causing the extra heat and resistance in the ignition. (Loose wires cause fires they say) Now that I got it back on the road, when I have time I will install the starter relay I bought and eliminate the connector below the ignition switch like nuru2 suggested. Thanks everybody for all the help.

Everything looks like it did from the factory. The switch is less than a year old and there is continuity across the ignition wire. I have installed an new switch and same problem. Where the switch plugs in before going to the starter at the ignition wire I have 12 volts when the key is turned. When I turn the key I hear a click click click But I don’t get 12v to female connector that slides into the spade connector on the back of the starter solenoid. It is melting from where the constant 12v wire (is it supposed to always be hot?) connects to the key cylinder all the way to where it enters the wire connector going back to the battery and a little on the ignition wire going toward the starter. I don’t have a digital multimeter but it looked like about 13.8v from the battery with the engine running. All the fuses check out but I can’t find a fuse that has continuity with the ignition wire. i think a starter relay might help but I have zero volts at the starter solenoid. There must be a short between the ignition switch which is good and the starter. A 94 loyale spfi wiring diagram would help me track it down.

Whats up guys. I just did the head gaskets in my wife’s Loyale. Went to start it and nothing just a clicking noise. After checking grounds and what not I put a jumper wire between the positive terminal and the tab on the back of the starter solenoid and it fired right up. I checked the ignition switch wiring harness and it was melted this will be the third time I have replaced the ignition switch in about three years what could be causing it to short? Should I wire in a new switch? She wants to take it camping with her girlfriends this summer and I don’t want it breaking down on her. I have been looking for a wiring diagram but have struck out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

The installation guide from Weber said it came set at the right level from the factory But I suppose I should crack into it and check. Anything else I should look at while I got it split in half?

I installed a new Spanish Webber on my 83 GL two years ago and it ran great for a while. But around 6 months ago it started stalling when I turn left with the clutch pushed in. I recently put in a fuel pressure reg when it started flooding but I am still having the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Does your adapter come with any sort of gasket? Or do you have to make your own.

Thanks everyone for the advice

I am trying to install a 2 inch sjr body lift on ea81 wagon and I have a few questions. First, do I need to install new longer custom brake lines with this size of lift? Also, there was no bracket included to drop the rear diff, do I need one if it's only 2 inches? And lastly, where do these pieces go, are they used to drop the trans/T-case? Any help would be greatly appreciated