Ross

Next time it plays up, take the ignition wire off the disty and place it near an earth, and crank it... see if there is a spark. If it turns out that its the ignition module, you can get one off an '85 or '86 ea82t.

Don't rule out a suck through setup, much easier to set up than blow through - the carb needs no mods running this way. Like everything, it has its disadvantages (throttle lag may be noticeable, and i've heard that they can be a prick to start sometimes), but i'd say it would be a better option than blow through...

wow thats cheap! If i were to buy a similar oil and filter here i'd be paying more like $25US +++! For good synthetic and filter I pay more like $70US!

Just to clarify..... the first number ( the W one) does not mean much to those of us that live in climates where temps dont drop much below freezing. On a 20degC day, a 5W30 will be almost exactly the same as a 10W30 or a 15W30 (well, it should be anyway). So the second number is the more important one, unless you live in a cold climate. If your engine is in good condition, it is generally desireable to use as thin an oil as possible, without the oil pressure dropping too much when the engine heats up. If you have a turbo engine, you'll probably find that your pressure will drop a bit much when using a 30 or even poor quality 40s.

I was using GTX prtotec before which caused all that black carp.... Its probably fine as long as your oil stays nice and cool...

looks just like the heads off my ea81t did before i cleaned them.... only mine were about 5 times worse!! I think mine was just caused by the lack of oil cooler, and running mineral oil. ea81ts seem to make oil very very hot.... It only gets fully synthetic now.

Yes and no..... pressure is just an indication of whats going on, it really has no relevance in itself. As long as oil is flowing to all parts of the engine, no pressure at all is required, since the bearings etc can operate hydrodynamically, and the subaru engines dont rely on squirters or other silly things like that. A low oil pressure can indicate a crap pump, which will obviously decrease flow, and requires attention. However, low oil pressure can be caused by a number of things - for example low viscosity oils. Running a high quality, say 0w30 synthetic will drastically lower oil pressure compared to a 0w40, but will do your engine no harm whatsoever. 15psi is absolutely fine for engines such as these, and 5 will do no harm, unless of course it is caused by a bad pump or some other condition where FLOW is effected. Saying that low oil pressure is always bad is a misleading and simplistic view of a much more complicated situation.

Dont worry about that, even 5psi at idle is OK.

Yes, they were designed to go into first while moving. Hence the syncro rings.... It is often a necessity when driving around town, especially with turbo models and 4 speeds(unless you like lugging your engine around at idle speed). Fact is that synchros dont last forever, especially when people rely on them completely to down change gears. That is very hard on them, especially the lower gears. Learn how to double clutch, and get used to doing it whenever you downchange. Get some larger pedals - makes it much easier to have one foot on both the accelerator and brake pedal at the same time.

83 ea81t, newly rebuilt. 10W60 oil, no oil cooler. around town, when oil is coolish: 20psi idle 40-50psi @ 2000rpm At open road speed, oil very hot: ~10psi idle 40-45psi @ ~3200rpm Cold (10-20degC, its summer here...), fast idle @ 1800rpm: 80psi

Mine came out fine with a standard stud wrench...... that was on an engine which had done around 200,000km. If you plan on getting the surface machined (a good idea if you don't want to worry about your head gasket), then they will have to come out. If the threads in the head are destroyed you can always helicoil them. If you have them out, make sure you check the FSM for the correct amount to re-insert them.

Depends, some aftermarket ones i have got in the past are exactly the same as the ones i have got from the dealer. And when your turbo melts them in six months anyway, its not worth the extra cost anyway.

Indeed..... If you have to use sealent, it must be one that will set, like a copper sealant. Non setting goo is for use on paper gaskets and the like only.

Just for interests sake..... Mine has shorter bilstein struts and springs in the front (lower & stiffer than standard ea81t), and bilstein shocks in the rear. Rebuildable apparently. No idea if that was a factory option, or if it were an aftermarket thing....

its not a bad idea if you know where they came from, but it wont hurt if you dont. It is mainly the lifter/cam interface that is important to keep matched.

Some kind of tree eating animal/insect/mite should do the trick if all else fails.

Yeah, expensive too! Its designed for very high temp applications, perfect for my oil-coolerless engine... Will probably switch to 5w50 synth once i have a cooler.

an update on this situation.... When this was occuring, i was using 15w40 castrol GTX protec, which is a resonable quality mineral oil (approved for turbos) - it was being run in so couldn't use synth. About a month ago, i changed to 10w60 fully synthetic, mainly because the oil gets very hot on long trips since i am lacking an oil cooler.... oil pressure now much better! Anyway, the moisture problem has totally disappeared now that i am using this oil. The problem had reoccurred after changing the mineral oil three times, leading me to believe that the problem had something to do with the oil. THere is now no moisture on the filler cap whatsoever, and the odd smell coming from the filler tube has been replaced with a nice oily smell. The engine also runs slightly smoother once warmed up. Conclusion: Castrol formula R 10w60 synthetic highly recommended for those of you with turbocharged engines! Mineral is not!

Unfortunately, i think the european ea82ts had oil coolers..... nothings simple eh:-\

Most did, but some, like mine, didn't. I have to run 10w60 fully synthetic to keep any sort of oil pressure, and mineral oil just breaks down. So yeah, if it hasn't got an oil cooler, get one asap.

1- lightening flywheels and the like do not give you any more hp, as long as the center of mass of the item is on the crankshafts axis of rotation. The only effect it has is to lower the reisitance to acceleration. 2- Since rotational inertia varys with the square of the radius, a small item like a crank pulley will have very little effect on the total rotational inertia. The flywheel has so much more rot inertia than the crank pulley to make the pulley negligible. Don't waste your time.

cheers all.... just have to decide between them and some of the trident style ones now...

Looking at buying some new mags for my '83 wagon, got one stolen from each of my sets..... Anyone seen these on an ea81 before? Look any good? A pic would be great.....

yeah thats the one i saw in a rx.... may well have been aftermarket of course. I bet someone would pay a lot of money for one of those.....

yeah they certainly exist, i saw an engine with them a few years ago....in a jdm ea81 rx..... unfortunately the owner didn't want to sell it!