Ross

When slowing down in gear, for some reason the engine surges as it goes between 1500-1400ish rpm. Feels like the throttle is being opened slightly, but its not! Seems to do it fairly consistantly. No ecs light. Idle switch is adjusted correctly. Any ideas? Maybe a sticky VAF sensor?

If the modules look the same they can probably be swapped - i know the ea81t one is the same as the early ea82t one.

More pics maybe tomorrow, i've lent my camera to a friend..... No, all the ones over here were imported second hand from Japan.

Sweet, its on the road! Drives nicely, only thing that perhaps needs adjustment is the idle switch - there is a noticible "on/off" bit in the throttle response near zero throttle. Needs some insulation around the new downpipe too. It feels SOOO much nicer and more responsive than the carb motor that was in there! Oil pressure (hot) is 15psi idle, 40psi 2500-3000rpm. Oil warning light goes out as soon as the starter starts cranking. dont think i've ever seen one do that before! Ended up brazing a hose nipple onto a head coolant drain bung to replace the banjo fitting that used to supply the turbo with coolant. Not ideal, but should work fine.

So they say, but when the ignition module on my ea81t started failing, it would run fine 90% of the time, and cut out randomly every now and again. Has the amplifier been checked? Is this an ea82t?

So other than whats mentioned above, what else does the ps computer do? For instance, does it disable or reduce the power steering above a certain speed? I'd also be interested in retrofitting one of these, one day.

They are normally very hard to remove, but sounds like yours is worse than usual. If you can find a standard hex key (allen wrench), you can beat on the end of them with a BFH as hard as you can - that should get it out. They are rather strong too(good ones, anyway - bondhus seem very good for the price), and will handle a very long pipe extension! Either that, or find a better quality breaker bar to use. Good luck!

The were sold as an MPV (Multi Purpose Vehicle) in certain countries.

You talking ea81 or ea82 style?

Not a knock conroller, the '89 ignition conrol is managed by the ecu.

You can normally get quite a bit more in if you fill untill it clicks off at half speed or so, after it has initially clicked off.

Got it sorted, turns out the coolant temp sensor was the problem - replaced it with my original one and she goes well. Now i've just got to finish making a downpipe, and find a replacement for the rusted out banjo bolt for the turbo coolant supply......or an alternative fitting. Not much other than this engine - put a very leaky 4dr in and thats about it. Should be getting a better gearbox for it soon... Its getting a legacy air/water ic and a wee bit more boost after its been run in.

Seach should have come up with heaps - here and on retrofitting forum.... Anyway, Nissan 280 injectors work, and i hear EVO 8&9 ones do to if you're after heaps of fuel..

Its Alive!!.............Barely..... Runs rough, wont idle by itself and plugs are black after 5 or 10 mins of running. Didn't have my timing light with me, i suspect maybe the disty is off a tooth - gonna go re torque the heads now then see what i can find...

Studs do hold on better - simply because they are already locked in place in the block when you torque the head - easier to strip a thread when tightening a fastener than to pull it straight out.

Got around to getting motor in today, just got to hook up a few fuel lines, put the radiator in and fix a stripped thread for a turbo coolant line tomorrow - should be all go then......

What on earth is "ps"??

Yep, those are the proper lifting points. If the front point isn't on the ps pump bracket , there will be a hook bolted to the block.

On some tests we did on a mitsubishi 4g11 at uni, exhaust temps rose to almost 700degC, at full throttle 3000rpm. So, no, silicone wont do. Get some "maniseal" or "Firegum".

The ecu advances the timing much further than 20 deg at higher engine speed - more like 40 or 50 deg btdc.

Na, the turbo engines have a larger base advance mainly because of their lower compression ratio. Pre '87 turbos still have both centrifugal and vacuum advance like N/A engines. after '87, the ecu advances the ignition as it sees fit.

The holes in the head are there on all ea81 heads - its just the coolant drain hole. The temp gauge on the '83s was originally in the thermostat housing, where the turbo coolant return now goes. Thats why it was put in the heater hose.

Hmm, the oil return on my turbo is a bit of heater hose, seems to be fine, but maybe ill change it before it goes back in if thats the case...

Here is a pic of the upper line: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9799&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 The lower one coming out of the same side of the turbo wiggles around under the turbo to come out the right side, then joins to a metal line, which attaches to a banjo fitting into the 1-3 head drain hole. A pic of it here, can't really see much tho: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9800&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

Yeah, heater hose will be fine - although you may be able to buy low pressure hose much cheaper that will do the job.