Ross

It is a standard flywheel from the EJ20R, and looked to be in good condition. The donor car had done 160,000km (~100,000miles). Clutch is a new excedy one (turbo style).

Hey all, My EJ25D, which I've just done a manual conversion on, has a low frequency vibration at around 1800-2000rpm. Only noticeable when free reving with the car at rest. It feels something out of balance -- you can feel it through the whole car, not to an alarming extent, but it is noticeable. Can also hear it. The engine runs perfectly otherwise, no misfires etc. Is this kind of thing normal for a manual EJ? The flywheel is off a Ej20 twin turbo...

If you have a few spare parts (fuel pump, pressure reg) you could build your own rig for testing spray pattern and flow rate.... But seeing as you'd probably only use it once or twice, it'd probably make more sense to pay someone else to do it.

It would be interesting to see what your LM-1 would tell you if you put the sensor in place of the engine O2 sensor and took it for a drive -- I presume the LM-1 has a programable analog output you can plug in to the ECU to keep it happy? If you could get a log file for a drive showing the actual A/F ratios it may provide some clues. For instance, is the mixture only far too rich during cruising, closed loop operation, or is it too rich all the time, even when the decel fuel cut should occur. One thing -- you mention that you checked the voltage on the MAP sensor -- the EJ25D that I am familiar with does not have one.... Is the engine the car's original one? Read nicolo69's posts properly before you start berating him on his maths skills..... He clearly states that the 10mpg is city driving and the 250mile tank was highway.

Yes, the connector is under the rear seat. Remove it/tilt it up (if it is a wagon) and peel back some sticky foam stuff and you will see it.

I have searched high and low and cannot find a wiring diagram or ECU pinout that matches mine..... My ECU has three yellow connectors going to it, all with two rows of conectors. The largest has 26 connectors in total, the others have 22 and 16 pins. Any ideas? I presume if other engines have the same plugs, the pinous will be the same (or at least very similar).

Ah, don't worry, I'm confusing my self between the ABS and engine computers! However, I still can't find the pin for the MT/AT identification (MTs have it grounded, ATs do not) or the neutral switch for MT -- mine is hte three plug version, and none of the FSMs I have show these pins for a three plug ecu. Any ideas?

Looking to find some pins on my ECU plug to finish off my manual conversion. I have FSMs for USDM legacies 1996 and 1999 but the ECU plugs are very different to mine. Mine has a single plug three rows of pins, as opposed to the ones I have found, which all have a single plug with four rows or multiple plugs.... Has anyone got any wiring diagrams or pinouts for such a connector? The engine/car is a '95 JDM legacy with the standard EJ25 DOHC.

Take it out and clean it first, it may have metal debris on it.

You should only need a ground pin in one of either 3 or 6 -- I can't remember which one, but it's definitely only one needed on mine (1995 legacy ABS 5.3) The green plug is to do with monitoring ECU codes and doesn't have anything to do with ABS.

Has anyone actually heard of a conversion where the TCU has been removed, the ECU wired to know that it is now a manual, and the ABS tricked into working? I've read plenty of talk about it on various forums, but never a verified case of it actually working in the end. From what I've read, I'd need to: --Ground the AT/MT ID pin on the ECU --Remove TCU --Ground the wire going from the TCU to ABS unit --Atach the neutral switch to the appropriate ECU pin Sounds perfectly reasonable that this would work, but it would be nice to actaully hear that it has been verified...

I need to keep the tranmission control computer in the loop for the moment to keep ABS going.... although I do have an idea how to get rid of it, I'll save that for another day. I'm presuming cutting the AT ID wire etc. to tell the ecu it's a manual will mess with this. The reason I think the TPS code is related to the manual is that it is the only thing that's changed. It doesn't bring up the check engine light, just stores a code. I wouldn't be that surprised if the ECU was a bit confused about how the engine is reving so high in neutral with the throttle closed. May as well sort the gearbox issues before I start messing with it anyway. We have fairly strict warrant of fitness standards here, and technically the car should get a low volume cert since it has been converted to manual, but if I get it looking and running nicely it wont be noticed -- so I do need to get this idle etc. sorted anyway. So -- I might try the park instead of neutral suggestion first and see how that goes...... But I suspect I'll need to get the ABS working without the trans computer so I can get that out of the way..... Cheers guys.

Yes that is on my list of things to do. It's throwing a code 31 (TPS) now, I'm guessing that's because it's seeing the engine doing 3000+rpm with the throttle shut when in 'neutral'....

Out of interest, does this car have a similar exhaust manifold to your LHD ones? Reason I ask is that our (RHD) legacies have a different system to your LHD ones. From what I've seen, yours go under the engine crossmember and join like the leone ones do. Ours are nearly the same as a turbo model -- they join in fornt of the oil sump, and the pipe goes up over the engine cross member and front axle on the right side. No idea why...

If you did that, you'd need to gut out the original struts or something, otherwise your rear end will be hopelessly overdampened. That could be very dangerous. An easier way would be to use old worn out struts and shocks -- then the sum of the damping might be about right.

I've just done a manual conversion on my '95 (JDM) legacy, EJ25D. I have it running with no codes etc, and all is generally well. Now I have to fix some rough edges. First is the idle control..... Since it is an automatic ECU (manual EJ25s of this vintage are very rare over here, so I wont be doing an ECU swap) it likes to idle quite high to start with, but the computer does seem to be learning slowly how to fix this -- it now idles at ~1200, down from ~2000 when I first started it. I suspect that, as it is at the moment, the computer will never have good control over the idle, since it doesn't know if it is in gear or not. It is wired as per most previous manual conversions I have found -- tricked into thinking it is in neutral constantly. So, my main question is, will the ECU recognise that the VSS indicates that the car is moving and therefore not adjust the idle? Or will it try to adjust the idle when coasting in gear (throttle closed, in gear but ECU thinks is in neutral). This would obviously cause confusion. A secondary question, does the ECU adjust the idle when in 'Drive' separately (or at all), or does it only adjust when in neutral or park? Cheers.

False. With a petrol engine, internals are really the least of your worries. The limiting factor is controlling pre-ignition. The higher your compression ratio, and the higher your boost pressure (which effectively increases your compression ratio, that's the point) the more trouble you will have preventing the fuel/air mixture from igniting itself before the spark. Because diesel engines only inject the fuel when combustion is wanted, they do not suffer this problem, and can run as much boost as you want to throw at them (within reason....). In fact, throwing more boost at a diesel engine, while keeping fuelling constant, cools down the exhaust gas temperatures -- the main limiting factor on power output of a diesel. Hrm, a bit off topic, but oh well.

Fixed.

There is really no good reason not to use a synthetic oil. Their relative expense is almost offset by the longer change intervals required (good idea to change the filter half way through the oil's lifetime if you are running a long life oil though) and their viscosity is much more stable at the high temperatures sometimes encountered in turbocharger bearings. When selecting an oil, get one with the same high temp viscosity rating as the one recommended by subaru -- that's the second number, and I think you are after a 30. The first number, with the W after it is less critical unless you live in a cold climate. A good synthetic will generally be a 0W or 5W though. The lower the better, as it means the cold viscosity is more similar to the (ideal) hot viscosity.

I know what you mean about simplicity, but don't rule out a simple engine management system like the megasquirt. Since you build the system yourself, you know exactly what is doing what, and you can make it as simple or as complicated as you like. I use a megasquirt ecu and a ford falcon throttle body injection unit on my suzuki samurai and have never looked back... although it does take a bit of tuning to start with. Much more reliable than the stock carb that was on there....

Why do you want a new flywheel anyway??

Sounds like a terrible idea to muck round with a screw driver in there..... If you really odn't want to remove the cams (not really very hard...) you could at least use something that doesn't have a hardened tip.... On a side note, anyone know why they discontinued the HLAs? Mine will have them, it's a '95 engine.

Excedy clutches are good. What makes you think you need a new flywheel? You should get it resurfaced (you can sometimes get away without doing it, but it's cheap so you may as well) but I can't see why you'd need a new one.

Since you are running LPG, you should be fine with the higher compression ratio. Depending on the exact mix, it will have an RON of 105 or higher. You wont get good results using a distributor straight from an EJ. At the very least you'd need to change the weights and provide some kind of boost retard system. Much easier and better, IMO, to go with a megasquirt or something and run the standard wasted spark system. Then the only thing you need to do to get a nice tune is some reading, rather than mucking around with distributors.

Check the brushes in the starter motor too, I've had more trouble with them than the solenoid contacts. Easy and very cheap to replace.