Ross

AAV, coolant temp sensor or poor injectors could do that, have you checked for codes from the ecu?

99% sure, i replaced one of mine with a second hand one from an ea82t, looked identical and seemed to work fine.

I think a picture would make it easier to speculate

Hehe...... lets just say that i'm very lazy........i've started putting it together, probably wont get back into it till the 10th of jan or so.

The ea81 is an ohv engine, no timing belt or chain, the cam shaft is gear driven. the ea82 is an ohc engine, timing belt that must be replaced every 80,000kms or so. I have an ea81 with 320,000kms on it, and it still goes well, so it is possible to find a good one with very high mileage - just be careful, as they wont all last that long!

ea81t and ea82t injectors are identical.

And it will be terrible for your gas mileage.

Taking the gearbox out of one that had spent most of its life on a dairy farm. Needless to say it had never been washed.

If you take off in 4 low on sealed raod and go around even a small bend, chances are you wont be able to get it back into 2 without a lot of force, or going around an opposite corner. Certainly not something i'd be doing regularly, you'll wear out the dog clutch forcing it out like that. 2 low would be nice, especially for towing trailers, and even when your stuck in traffic it would be useful. Looks easy enough to separate the levers and put an extra selector in.

If you do a bit of gravel and off road, you might like to find a dealer that stocks simex tires - they make some resonably priced tires in the size that you want, and they have very strong sidewalls for a road tire. Dont buy anything with a name like Road Champ, Sky power, or Good-Ride if you ever go off the road. Their sidewalls are crap. they wear out really fast too. Spend the extra money and get the simexs', or go with some firestone firehawks or Dunlops if you can afford it.

Ay? what drive belt?

No timing chain either, camshaft is gear driven. Also lighter.

Wow, ive never even seen a manual car with a starter disabler! Sounds like a bad idea to me, you never know when you'll need to start the car in gear (like when a clutch cable snaps!)

Still havn't found out what the ones in my wagon are - all i know is that they are non adjustable and yellow. Is there anywhere in particular that manufacturers normaly stamp model #s etc??

OK, got it to pass the test. It must be a worn adjustment mechanism or something, i got it to adjust a little bit better by winding the pistons in then re installing the caliper. then i moved the lever on the caliper through its entire travel a few times by hand. Still not good, and it'll have the same problem again in six months time i think, but its fixed in the mean time.

The FSM actually specifies a sealant for the HGs (at least for ea81s it does).

Havn't measured, but they look fine. Caliper should adjust itself for that anyway.

Does the position of the lever here (shown with brake applied) look normal, or is it too far around?

Agreed, go aftermarket, just make sure its one for electronic ignition and you'll be fine. 95% sure that yours doesn't use an external resistor.

The bolts are steel, but you should be fine - they shouldn't be very tight. Always use a torque wrench when reassemblig stuff like that.

Check the vacuum advance on your distributor re the detonation - it should retard the timing under boost. Does sound like you have a fuel problem though, like low fuel pressure.. You may not need to have your riming much further advanced than 10 deg with that carb block. Im not surprised it doesn't feel right at 13psi with 8.7:1CR. That would be about the limit for your fuel system.

But does it dissolve plastics? You will find very little, if any, actual rubber around anymore - its just too expensive compared to plastic alternatives. Even your tires are mainly plastic!

I doubt it would be doing much, as far as i can remember the ports are symmetrical? If so, the flow should split properly without it. Just remember - when it comes to porting, bigger is definitely not always better!

This is on a friends ea82t wagon. Failed a warrant of fitness check because hand brake barely works at all on the right hand side. Works fine on other side. brake pads are fine. Both cables are getting around equal tension from the lever, that seems fine. One thing i noticed was that the caliper lever is pulled around almost to the cable housing mount when the brake is applied- this is similar on both sides. Looks as though the little boots may be actually stopping the lever from moving any further than this, which could be the problem. Is there any way that the caliper lever can be adjusted so as it doesn't need to turn so far? Cheers.

Ask for a proper valve spring compressor - one that you have to take the head off to use. They work very easily.