Ross

Most likely the oil is completely different in the US - i'd say ours is made in Austrailia. I doubt it was the oil that caused it - probably some unrelated problem - like the fact that it was a 626!! Some oils do resist contamination more than others though.

That should be fine, as long as it doesn't drop below 10psi it'll be fine. Is this a factory gauge were talking about? They are notoriously inaccurate.

Cheat!

Your on! Although, I fear you might not be too keen to pick me up when you see where i live! So, what kind of engine is this anyway? Ah, dont worry, i see it on the site.

Sweet! I'll believe the 360 hp when i see it though, sounds a little excessive from an engine that small!

On the top of the block on the 1-3 side about 50mm from the split, just behind the intake manifold. Screws vertically into block, two wires coming out of yours.

Answered in above post.

One running. Two not. :-\

Toe in adjustment cant make you car pull to one side at all. What the guy meant is that there are no camber/castor adjustments provided. This is what needs to be adjusted if alignment is indeed your problem. Camber/Castor can only be "adjusted" by a little bending of the car frame - thats what he would have done if he adjusted the camber. Experienced guys can get the alignment very good by doing this - its even possible to get rid of some of that factory camber these cars have. You need to lift the front wheels off the ground and support it safely. Wiggle the wheels to check for any play. Give the tires a good checking over. Then get a crow bar or similar, and try to pry the bushings/joints around and check for movement.

This set has the one you want in it..... http://www.globalspec.com/FeaturedProducts/Detail/MetricScrewTool/Metric_Tap_and_Die_Set/22735/1 Cant see why it would be that hard to find a single one - a trade tool shop should be able to help you out if thats what you want.

Thats what i like to hear!

Agreed - 9.5:1 with 8psi boost and no intercooler is gonna need high octane gas.

Intake/exhaust springs seem to be the same length (pretty much anyway). It would make sense that they would be short as you say, but i'd be more inclined to believe the FSM than haynes....... Perhaps ea82 ones are longer, and thats what these ones are?

They are the ones that were on the motor.

Eh? According to the FSM, my ea81 valve springs are all around 2-3mm too long. How does that work?? According to my haynes manual, they are all around 1mm too short?

You can get the springs normalised, and re-hardened in the position where you want them. Then you'll have a shorter, stiffer spring like you want. Most spring shops should be able to help you out cheap. you could give the torsion bar the same treatment if you want the back to be stiffer as well as lower.

Yes, the spring is a torsion bar type, which is housed inside the large tubular cross member.

I think he's just saying that since the crank wont turn, the bolt just tightens/loosens when he tries to turn the crank with a socket on the pulley bolt.

Assuming thats 0V W.R.T an actual ground, then there is a prob with the +side supply of the injectors - should be 12v "hot at all times". That taps straight off the line that supplies power to the ecs (ie its got nothing to do with the ecs at all). Check that your ecs is getting +12V with the ignition switch off, should be a red wire. There should be a connection to that that goes to the + side of the injectors. Sorry, no idea of pin #s, i'm looking at a crappy haynes manual. Have you got a wiring diagram? I can post a copy of this one if you'd like..

It will work, be prepard for some profanities though, because those things dont force the little clips to come lose. So if they are stuck (all of mine were) you need to do some tapping with a hammer to get them loose. If you have the head off, use a proper one, but using one of them is definitely better if you dont otherwise need the head off.

Remember, although there is plenty of piston/valve clearence, the intake manifold wont fit if you mill much off the heads!

Hmm, sounds like you may have corrosion on the cyl. walls around a ring.... i'd try the diesel trick, but even then you may break the ring trying to get it to turn.

You can check them using plastigauge - a tiny string of plastic that you put between the journal and bearing then torque it up - you can then compare how much the plastic is squashed with a scale on the packet to find the actual clearance.

Studies were done in the '70s and '80s that showed that compression/performance of an engine does not suffer with ring gap sizes of at least 3mm!! Bearing that in mind, gapless rings seem somewhat unnecessary for standard applications. They don't have thrust washers, the center main bearing shell has a thrust bearing face on it.

Definitley new bearings, they are cheap as dirt anyway. Any parts store/dealer will have them, make sure they are of a known brand. Never heard of topline, so i dont know. It has probably been honed, but yeah, have a look.