Ross

Another vote for analog - digi looks wierd.

The boots arn't a perfect seal, and the extreme high pressure greases in use today really dont like water. Probably some water got in and set things off.

The tach comes off the ignition coil, which is controlled by the distributor. See if there is play in the distributor shaft - thats probably the problem. If so, you'll need to get the bushings done in it or find a second hand distributor.

I had that bad with the '83 wagon, ended up taking the fenders off and giving them a good clean/prime just to make sure. Definitley nasty.

Too much boost wont cause a broken rod anyway - the compressive stress on the rod caused by the piston is basically negligible compared to the bending stress caused by the rod's own weight. More likely the rod broke because of over-reving, bad big-end bearings or bad oil supply.

Yes, that will affect your ignition. You should either try to get the insert sitting flush, or take it out and use a new one.

Thats bad luck about the deer, probably even worse for the deer itself! Venison for dinner? You may have to make up some mounts, i think the whole front is actually different.

I agree, dont do it if you can avoid it. The only marginally safe way is on a trailer, and then you've got to add that weight on (they are very heavy those car trailers). With the proper 6-10% tongue load for that set up you will risk damaging your suspension and even your tires (if they are just roadies). Without the proper tounge load cornering and stopping becomes very dangerous. I've towed a big ford car on a trailer with an ea81 wagon before, but only 20km or so on the flat - the rear suspension did not feel up to it (sways around a lot). Definitely make sure the trailer has top notch disc brakes if you decide to go ahead with it - you wont stop it going down hill with those solid discs and drum brakes!

Dont put it in backwards. If you look closely at the seal, it has small angled grooves on the sealing face that push oil inwards. If you put it in backwards, it will "pump" oil out!

Also check your spark plugs are correct - should ideally be NGK BPR6ES.

best way would be to find the dimensions of a seal you want to use and machine/sleeve the crank to match.

More than likely you wont have to worry about the metal brake lines, its probably just one of the flexable ones gone. Either see if a parts shop has them in the correct length (should do), or there are places that custon make them to any length.

Good to hear. i think you can upload small vids in the same way as you upload pics?

Geez, that it a good price! Is the guy you sold it to gonna race it?

Got a pic of how its broken?

Sorry, "guard" translates to "fender".

Yep.

What makes you think that? I'd have thought the RX would have it in the same place as the wagon, but maybe i'm wrong.

The rear shouldn't need alignment unless something is obviously wrong, as in your case. Rear alignment is done by loosening the three bolts that hold the main arm to the torsion bar arm and manipulating the wheel with a bottle jack or something. Apparently its an utter PITA, thats coming from an old guy who used to set them up for rallying. I'd suggest you find someone who is familiar with the procedure to do it if possible.

Thats right, if its '86 or older it has a knock control unit in the left (in a rhd anyway, probably same side as your coil is on?) guard. You have to take the guard off! However, it does not interface with the ecu, it simply changes the voltage applied to the extra two terminals on the pickup in the distributor.

Its just the one for doing up the head nuts under the rocker shaft. Its a 17mm 1/2" drive. As for how much boost i'm going to run, well i'm not sure. Probably 10psi or thereabouts, i'm not looking to turn it into a racing car! Just some extra power for the mountains will be good.

If your battery has an easy life, ie no big current drains without the alternator running, and run regularly, non mantainence ones arn't really worth it - the level in my regular battery hasn't gone down in at least a year. Get one with a good guarantee.

Update: Engines been on the back-burner, had exams at uni. Starting to get back into it, and decided that now that i have money (job over uni holidays) i may as well get my crankshaft reground (apparently you can go below -0.25mm, contrary to what the fsm says) and get some new lifters. At least that way i know everything is sweet as. So, that puts the spending up to around, hmm....NZ$800-$1000. thats US$600-750 or so. Not bad.

I just gently bring the engine to a stop with the clutch as i turn the ignition off (no circuit for the A.D solenoid cos the engines in a turbo car).

Wow, that sounds realy wierd! Thanks guys.