Ross

You could see a performance increase, then again you might not. Just depends on how much of a pressure drop occurs over the IC. Definitely a good thing for your engine though. You can increase boost by adding a "boost controller" to the wastegate actuator line. You should be able to find info on that with a search.

Baisically, if you want less rotational inertia, lighten your flywheel. The pulley is so light and of such small diameter that it may as well not be there at all when it comes to rotational inertia. Anyway, on the turbo 6, someone has to do it, may as well be you!!

Anything can be machined, but you might have problems getting someone to set up forging dies for a one off! Your original ones will do fine if you first smooth off any sharp edges and have them shot peened.

I see. Mine definitely doesn't have that, although there are bits in the grommet which can be cut out to allow it through. I assume it for the cruise control, unless there are other differences between JDM and USDM cars i don't know about.

Sweet. Dont forget to remove all sharp edges in high stresss areas in the block - sharp corners are good fatigue crack initiators!

Any manual one should work. I cant see why Fuji would have bothered making different underbodies for the different cars.

1. not sure, but do you have a multimeter? one pin will be common to both (ground), the high beam filament will have a slightly lower resistance. 2. They last a little while like that, but not long. You can get H4s in really high wattage though (like 115/120 or something).

Dont you already have forged rods???

If its a reliable gauge (ie not a factory one), a drop below 10psi may indicate a problem, but it wont cause damage untill it gets below around 5psi. A factory gauge, as turbone said, willl often read very low at idle. 40-45psi is fine for around the 3000rpm mark.

You can get non-sealed beam (like H4 or something) replacements for most (if not all) sealed beam lights. Not too expensive either. Then you can go to like, 120W per bulb. You want the number on the front of the light, ill look at the quads on my 79 later if you want.

Cant see anything like that on mine, (has no cruise control, RHD) are you talking about the same grommet as the heater hoses go through?

Get the raius rod mounts and the manual crossmember (the manual crossmember mounts on to the manual radius rod mounts) and your away. No drilling/tapping needed. Only cutting you have to do on the whole exercise is to enlarge the shifter hole through the floor. Have fun! [The manual and auto driveshafts are the same.]

Yeah, the wheels filling with snow is horrible when you get back on the road. Didn't have any trouble with the engine bay, but i kept having to remove the snow off the bonnet/windscreen by hand because the nose would dig in and scoop masses of snow up there! Did a nice job of cleaning my mags too! I just wish it snowed here a little more often...its much funner than mud!

The whining is probably a wheel bearing - fairly cheap and easy to replace, do a search. There is also plenty of material on the 5 speed swap, if you can find a cheap donor car it doesn't cost much at all. Do a search on that as well, or check out the repair manual link at the top.

If Austrailia gets the same cars as us (probably do) then it wouldn't have had anything like the amount of vacuum lines and sensors that you guys have.

Went for a drive in the snow yesturday (only get the change once a year around here) in the 83 wagon. Snow was all fresh, about 1/2-1 foot worth. Went well, especially since its on wee 185/60R14 road tires! Only problem was that the front wheel wells kept filling up with snow so that i could barely turn at all! Do others have this problem, or is it just because it sits lower to the ground than non turbo 4wds??

As long as the surfaces are resonable, o-rings work very well - much better than any other seal. Unless you have any reason to think otherwise, i would trust the o-ring. If you are still worried, you could use some anaerobic sealant on the tube, will make it even harder to get out again though!

It shouldnt really matter - its a pretty tight fit anyway isn't it?

gee, and i thought the 200,000kms on my 83 wagon was low!

I had a similar bearing problem. What i believe has happened is this: when i bought this car, the front wheel bearings were in very bad shape. I took them out, there was signs that the bearing had been partially locking up, thus spinning the outer race in the knuckle. Because of the preload on the bearings, this wore the seperating shoulder down. When the new bearings are installed , because this shoulder is smaller than it was, while the inner race spacer is the correct size, the bearings are preloaded excessivly. To correct this, i made some shims up to go between the shoulder and the outer race. This seemed to do the trick, although the car only did 5000kms or so after doing this before i took it off the road due to rust. Have a look at the shoulder and see if it looks worn, or if there are any signs of the bearing turning in its housing. Also, do the bearings that come out of it look overheated (straw colour or blue)? Are the bearings hard to get into the housing? They shouldn't be a very tight fit - they should tap in quite easily, since the outer race is supposed to very slowly creep around to give even wear.

About the head unit mounting problem on ea81 style cars (would apply to any): i'm in the process of modifying a headunit so that it has a remote face plate. The faceplate and the bit it clips on to are mounted on the standard position on the console, while the main bit of it will sit under the seat (probably). They are connected by a 15 core comm. wire, which is soldered on to the board where the faceplate connector was soldered. This way, i am able to attach the original connector to the faceplate mount, so i can still remove the faceplate easily. Only disadvantage is if you have a head unit that only plays single cds - it makes it a bit difficult to change cd. I'm using a cd changer to get around that on this HU, but my better WMA playing head unit will go in in the same fashion some time soon. Just another solution to think about if you don't like the look of those sticky outy things.

Really depends on the terrain you drive on. I find my ea81t is fine for mild offroading (cant do much more cos its lower than a standard 4wd!) - they still put out resonable torque at low revs and dont have a huge power surge when the turbo kicks in like some other engines do. If your going over heaps of rocks etc, with lots of real slow stuff i'd definitely rather have a N/A enigne. You cant beat a turbo for playing in the mud though!

If you don't mind paying someone, an engine shop will acid bath them for not too much. They come out looking brand new!

Hello from New Zealand. Any particular info you need?

I've seen them mounted there too, they look good there. For stuff like oil pressure, you don't really need to look at it all the time anyway.